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What happen to original 3 OEM bolt that go there ?

Such bolt not something you remove then discard.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
don't know. someone didn't know jack ****. I just noticed them while changing the clutch oil. good thing there are no leaks.
 

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Not sure what you mean by changing the clutch oil. The clutch does not have a separate oil supply. It is lubed with the engine oil.

Those missing bolts are the fill and overflow oil plugs for the transmission. Not having them in is not a good thing. That could indicate low or no oil in the transmission.

Did you by chance remove the plug on the bottom of the engine that takes an 8mm hex bit when you were trying to change the clutch oil. If so that is the drain plug for the transmission not the clutch.
 

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Not sure what you mean by changing the clutch oil. The clutch does not have a separate oil supply. It is lubed with the engine oil.

Those missing bolts are the fill and overflow oil plugs for the transmission. Not having them in is not a good thing. That could indicate low or no oil in the transmission.

Did you by chance remove the plug on the bottom of the engine that takes an 8mm hex bit when you were trying to change the clutch oil. If so that is the drain plug for the transmission not the clutch.



Perhap this help.

.
 

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According to your earlier post you bought this bike this summer , have you been driving it like this without the bolts ? Also in another of your earlier post you stated you had "no power to the rear wheel" . You might want to update us on the complete story ? It sounds like you might have some fairly serious problems with this bike ?

TheReaper!
 

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When I first looked at the picture last night I did not notice the 3 bolts missing from the final drive case, just the transmission plugs. I'm now assuming that the OP removed the plugs to change the transmission oil thinking he was changing the clutch oil.

As TheReaper pointed out, having those bolts missing from the final drive case implies that case has been apart before. Possibly when the trike kit was installed. If they did not even get all the bolts back into it then that makes me wonder if they got everything back together inside it correctly. That also makes me wonder if the lose of power to the rear wheels issue is not a related item. It's quite possible that something inside the final drive broke. Might be time to pull that case cover off and take a look inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
ok folks here's the complete story

got the burgman in September. ran great with no issues whatsoever.
one week in had a issue with where the burgman attaches to the trinity.
after the final drive there is a round portion of the final drive case that's round.
this area is where the two wheeled burg attaches to the rear wheel.
inside this part of the case is the drive yoke. it's where the trinity attaches to the burg.
there are three bolts on the yoke and a round plate. the plate is from the burgman.
all three bolts sheared off. I took it apart and replaced the bolts.
the repair appeared strong and I rode for about a three weeks and about 400 miles
when I did the repair I changed the final drive oil with valvoline gear oil that met the specs
I've been checking for oil leaks and there is none.
I also did a oil change, crankcase and I think the transmission are the same chamber. filled it with MA 10-40 from the filler under the service cover. checked it at the fluid window and it's been full since.

now I have this new issue when I was leaving a stop light. accelerated through the intersection and herd what I thought was a snapping sound. no banging, no grinding ect.

as for the clutch oil. I took the right side lower plastic off. looked in the service manual and got the proper oil. the wet clutch requires a 10-40 oil with a sg of sf API. I got oil with a highest API rating. took out the large drain plug, big plug with a rounded head. took out the filler bolt, the long funny one and took out the oil level bolt. filled the clutch with oil till it ran out of the oil level bolt hole.

if I'm wrong please fill my in about the oils and I will do,it properly. I now have the two lower plastics off and checked the cvt filter area to see if it's turning and I can see it is.

if the rear part of the cvt crosses the burg to the right side of the bike then I believe it goes to the clutch. correct me it I'm wrong. then the next part in the drive train might be the issue.

that's the scoop folks. please give whatever advise you can so can get her rolling down the road again

thanks to all of you for helping

Dom
 

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When I first looked at the picture last night I did not notice the 3 bolts missing from the final drive case, just the transmission plugs. I'm now assuming that the OP removed the plugs to change the transmission oil thinking he was changing the clutch oil.
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Me see same thing, notice missing transmission bolt/plug, did not notice 3 missing bolt far back there.
 

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Perhap this help.

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That helps immensely, Chérie - thanks a bunch for posting those pix! I just took delivery of an '07 B650 yesterday and am having way too much fun to ignore the oil - but the owner's manual they promised me hasn't arrived yet.

Thanks again!
 

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Not need to remove transmission oil fill plug at all, easier to fill via transmission oil level plug, measure correct amount in measure cup then place in squezze bottle with tube and simply fill via transmission oil level plug, if to much oil it start to overflow from oil level plug.

.

 

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That helps immensely, Chérie - thanks a bunch for posting those pix! I just took delivery of an '07 B650 yesterday and am having way too much fun to ignore the oil - but the owner's manual they promised me hasn't arrived yet.

Thanks again!
For more excellent help please google LeDude Burgman Centre, you not believe all tutorial Monsieur LeDude done + put online for all of us to use.

Who need mecanic with all tutorial on from Monsieur LeDude.

Also visit Burgman USA Knowledge Base here.


https://sites.google.com/site/testburgmancenter02/

.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Not need to remove transmission oil fill plug at all, easier to fill via transmission oil level plug, measure correct amount in measure cup then place in squezze bottle with tube and simply fill via level plug, if to much oil it start to overflow from oil level plug.

.

looks like I put the wrong oil in my transmission. I will drain and put in 10-40 MA oil.

after all my trans oil is ok. now I know where it is and the proper oil.
thanks
 

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looks like I put the wrong oil in my transmission. I will drain and put in 10-40 MA oil.

thanks
You avatar not say were you located, it would help everyone to help you more if new area were you located, perhap even have one or two BUSA member close to you.

As long as JASO-MA approve, use exact same oil in engine & transmission.

It can be 5W-40, 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40 mineral or synthetic JASO-MA.

Never use oil that say it energy conserving.
 

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Dom, if you put 75W90 in where Cherie's photo shows then just drain it out. The weight rating for engine oil and gear lube is totaly different but you see like 10W40 and 75W90 and think that the 90 weight is twice as thick. IT IS NOT. 75W90 is about the same thickness as 30 weight motor oil but has extra pressure additives that cause foam if run in an engine. The cover in Cherie's photos with the drain plugs have gears inside and gear lube will be OK. Don't panic on that one.

I would lift the trike and spin the wheels and see if everything moves like it should. Does the trikes diff spin? Does the trikes belt/chain spin? To check forward from there will require more disassembly to inspect.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Dom, if you put 75W90 in where Cherie's photo shows then just drain it out. The weight rating for engine oil and gear lube is totaly different but you see like 10W40 and 75W90 and think that the 90 weight is twice as thick. IT IS NOT. 75W90 is about the same thickness as 30 weight motor oil but has extra pressure additives that cause foam if run in an engine. The cover in Cherie's photos with the drain plugs have gears inside and gear lube will be OK. Don't panic on that one.

I would lift the trike and spin the wheels and see if everything moves like it should. Does the trikes diff spin? Does the trikes belt/chain spin? To check forward from there will require more disassembly to inspect.
motor oil says 10-40 MA I did that and it's full from the inspection window.
trans says 10-40 SG-SF and I did that also. there both full with no leaks.
I did the final drive with 75-40 motorcycle gear oil

I'm in ok with what I just told you?

thanks
Dom
 

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motor oil says 10-40 MA I did that and it's full from the inspection window.
trans says 10-40 SG-SF and I did that also. there both full with no leaks.
I did the final drive with 75-40 motorcycle gear oil

I'm in ok with what I just told you?

thanks
Dom
As clutch use the transmission oil, for prevent damage + prevent slipping do not use energy conserving oil at all.

Rear final drive suggest use Mobil 1 75W90 full synthetic or Lucas 75W90 full synthetic or in that area of Lucas or Amsoil 75W90 Long Life 75W90, all approx. same price range, or any high quality Full Synthetic 75W90 is good.

Me really like the Amsoil Long Life full synthetic 75W-90 in rear final gear drive.

.
 
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