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Discussion Starter #1
Well after a year and a half of suffrage, I finally bit the bullet and purchased Ikon rear shocks and front springs. I have only put on the rear shocks and I am kicking myself each time I ride my Burgman for not doing it 1 day after I purchased it used last year. I had many emails with Dave Gardner at Ikon regarding my rider weight at 210 and a potential passenger at 155 and he checked with his engineer in Australia where the shocks are made and they said I was at a weight that would take the standard spring used in the "normal shock" application but I could go one step up but it might be harsh. HARSH I thought that is what I am trying to get away from so I went with the normal setup. I am riding it for day 2 and I must say, if these things just hold up (they are rebuild able) I will never regret this decision. I dropped $520 delivered which is no small sum for anyone but my tailbone thinks it is the best money ever spent every time I hit a frost heave or heat heave no knowing what really causing those spine realignment speed bumps in a 55mph road. I am running my shocks on setting 1 on the spring and 2 on the dampening and set them up that way prior to installation. Even though I installed them with the dampening change window to the inside of the wheel well I can see them being very difficult to change on the bike. I could not use my fingers to rotate the dampener due to it being stiff and I keep my fingernails at zero for mechanical work injury purposes. I used a Mylar bar that is used for wheel weight removal from Nomar tire changers as my tool to rotate the setting while the shock was off the bike. You may find your individual observations about your shock change different than mine as people are very subjective about seats but I like what I did. Now I just have to not go out to eat lunch as often to make up some of that $520 I took out of my account. :thumbup:
 

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Welcome to the club. I've been running Ikons since the Spring (npi). Standard spring, damping set on #3. #2 seemed to skip a bit on highway bumps (too fast compression, too slow rebound). You are correct about adjustment--taking the shock off to change the damping is necessary (annoying). Clearances on the muffler side aren't enough to allow preload changes either. Still, I've been able to change it on the centrestand with my hand. The Suzuki design is superior in this regard.

If you haven't replaced the fork springs (preferably with emulators) then DO IT! It's cheaper and more effective. As nice as the Ikons are, new springs/emulators up front make a bigger difference in overall handling.

How was the fit? The first pair I bought had to be returned as both clevises weren't wide enough and the bolt holes were burred. The second pair was better, but one still needed persuasion. Kudos to the vendor in that situation, which was great, since the factory seemed pretty indifferent. Just in case anyone else intends to buy, ask the seller to confirm a 20 mm clearance between the clevis arms with no burring!
 

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Part # of Ikon would help all here.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My clevises were tight also. I had to take a long bolt with a nut on the inside and screw it into the threaded side and then with a wrench rotate the bolt back toward the other clevis and use the power of the bolt to perfectly spread it a little and it did not take much to move it and that method was the best even spread I could come up with.
 

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Smart trick, I'll have to file that one away for the future wrenching. Thanks!
 
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