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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I Talked about this not long Ago, Notice that the Burgman 650 Has the same Key-Ignition as the Burgman 07' 400

Pulled out the Bike Thursday, Turned the Key and Complete Darkness,No Power. On the Coupler there are 6 Prongs, I manage to override-bypass by Tapping ,wires and connecting a Switch So, the bike Still Starts up and Runs, A Simple Remedy until l i can Replace the $227 Part If i replace it at All...

Now Buffalo, Did Mention that Carbon might be the Case, There are 2 Screws under the Ignition which Might Remove the Tumbler, Not sure ,The front Tupperware will have to be Completely Disassembled, to get to the Ignition Module,

found this Video on youtube, Same Case As Mine. not sure if this guy Purchased a new one or Not!


http://www.burgmanusa.com/gallery/Vfdcaptain/album89/



Elliott,
 

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You don't need to remove the tumbler at the top of the switch. The electrical parts are all mounted at the bottom where the coupler hooks up.

When you remove the coupler you will see a couple of screws under the plate it connects to on the switch housing. Remove those two screws (you will need a security bit) and the plate they hold on. Under the plate is the electrical part of the switch. Pull it out taking care of the orientation of the shaft it fits over. You will need to get it back the same way. Pry the switch apart and you can get to the contacts inside it. You may be able to clean them up and get it to work again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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The inside of that one in the Gallery pictures looks about like what I found when I took the switch that came out of Robin's 07 650 apart. Needless to say there was not much chance of fixing it. Others have found just a little carbon buildup and they were able to clean them up and get them working again. Now if Suzuki would just sell that little switch instead of only selling the whole unit the cost of repairing it would be cheaper.
 
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This ("carboning" up and arcing) is a common problem on older vehicles, the switch shown below is from a 1990 Miata:



If one is lucky enough to catch it early enough, and the switch can be disassembled, it is an easy fix; just clean everything up, degrease it all and a apply a very thin film of contact lubricant on reassembly. If the is significant grooving or upset metal on the sliding contacts (this can be seen on the sliding contact near the center of the photo) it can often be hammered back to the original contour and smoothed with a jeweler's file...
 

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I just shot some contact spray (available at RadioShack), into the sides of the switch. Juiced it up real good and worked the switch back and forth. I have ridden almost every day for 18 months without a problem. I didn't take anything apart, although Mitch bergsma has a good video about disassembling the starter switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not that Starter Switch, the other One Behind the Ignition Key Chassy

Have not worked on the Ignition Module Unit Yet? Will have to get Torque Tamper Bit tool to Remove the 2 Screws,

Unless somebody have Suggestions on another way to remove them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Will be Working on the Ignition Module Unit Today? Will Post pictures for you guys for future Use, I Hope that's it's just Carbon Build up, And Pray that it's Not Melted Damage as what others were saying, If this is the Case gonna Use Steel/Weld or JB Weld to Fix the Problem, The Problem has not been Resolved ,Going on 4 Weeks Now!!

I Suspect that it may be More then just a Carbon Problem..

Will keep you guys Posted on the Repair....

Elliott,
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Ignition Module 2007 Model

Ignition Module Unit The Problem has been Resolved

Well Looks Ok! Buffalo,Guys, Only Mild Melt Damage that that i can See Photo's Below!!
There is a Melt Spot that Just Blocks The Copper Contact, a little Spec but ,was the Suspect!!

Will Polish with Mothers Chrome Polish, and give it a little LUBE!! Problem Solved!!!


Hope this helps every body, when you need to Service yours.
 

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So my little pea brain has got to wondering:

Since the ignition switch has a positon for ON, OFF, Lock, and LOCK?PARK....I note the wire diagram does not show switch positions for the LOCK/PARK position.

My particular interest is that I would like to cut the darned wire that causes the park light to come on when I screw up and leave the bike in PARK overnight = dead battery.
 

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Hi All,
I was out on a ride, stopped to see the sights, got back on, nothing when I turn the switch. Checked the battery, went and got a new battery 6 years old and hoped it was the problem), nope. Still nothing. The bike is sitting in a park 30 miles from home and I have no truck/trailer to get it. Sounds like I'm having the same contactor problem (carbon). What are the safety bits you discuss? How hard is this going to be to get running to bring home, help? (can I wire in a hidden switch until I can get the $ for a new switch?) Thanks for any help. Ed ('09 650 - 17k miles - Orig owner)
 

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Thanks to this thread, got it running and home. Thank you all for the resource.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Glad it Helped I had the same Problem , I kept my Backup Switch Hidden just in case it's needed again!!!

Elliott,
 

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Sorry to refloat this thread...

I've just had this same problem, switched off the bike, then switched it on to continue riding... and nothing happened.
The switch in the ignition key is gone, it's the round plastic bit at the rear of the ignition.

As there's no part available from Suzuki, I wonder if anybody knows if it is possible to get it somewhere, as I imagine this plastic switch is common and used in other different ignitions.
Any idea?
 

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Hey all. So this and other threads I found here were extremely helpful. I was about to take out the key ignition with the aim of stripping it apart to get it back in line when I realized that it was only a 50/50 chance that the problem was actually there, and another 50/50 that I would be successful in actually fixing it. So I choose to take another route and began to re-examine the connectors in the battery area. It took hours of removing more tupperware, and unlocking connector after connector before finding the culprit... on connector that was not seated correctly and had burned up the copper. With some 40A Radio Shack connectors I had on hand I cut the old, plugged in the new and the problem disappeared!!! Thank you one and all!!!
 

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To op or who may know id like to try hotwiring the ignition switch connector to get it on till I get the part from the junk yard owner. Use a switch that sits in the glove box with inline fuse for a temp solution

In that green connector (6spade connections) im not sure which 2 spade connectors to wire together and if anyone knows pm me so it isnt posted for all of rhe public to see.
Ill also check battery negative terminal for corrosion as well

Much appreciated have a great weekend
 

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To op or who may know id like to try hotwiring the ignition switch connector to get it on till I get the part from the junk yard owner. Use a switch that sits in the glove box with inline fuse for a temp solution

In that green connector (6spade connections) im not sure which 2 spade connectors to wire together and if anyone knows pm me so it isnt posted for all of rhe public to see.
Ill also check battery negative terminal for corrosion as well

Much appreciated have a great weekend
Your answer is in this thread and on page 425 & 441 here. Make sure you use a switch and wires that can carry up to 30a.
 
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