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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm thinking that there aren't any idle speed hacks using any of the ECM inputs, that won't affect the entire rpm range....resetting the ISC doesn't give the user any control. tightening down on the factory set throttle stop screw would screw up the ECM....
I wonder about gluing an .005 shim on the throttle pulley nub on the throttle body? simulating the user opening the throttle slightly.
 

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I wonder about gluing an .005 shim on the throttle pulley nub on the throttle body? simulating the user opening the throttle slightly.
The mechanical throttle plate should never be adjusted/moved from factory setting to adjust idle speed, the screw on the left side is a "Throttle Stop" not an idle screw, the idle is controlled by the ISC, if you messed with it ...more info here ...
read my post 15+17, Burgman tp sensor and idle screw adjustment
 

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I'm thinking this will turn out to be FUBAR'ed beyond recovery.
 

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The only idle speed hack I would have wanted on the 650 would be a detent in the throttle travel such that one could feel the point at which RPMs would drop below clutch engagement RPMs. That is, so you'd know exactly how much throttle to hold to prevent low-speed lurching (and then modulate ground-speed with the rear brake instead). Not enough to keep the throttle from closing automatically, just enough to provide feedback.

I don't think this is what's under discussion.
 

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lucky these are more "thought experiments" than getting crazy with the scooter . I know there are some guys on here with pretty deep knowledge of this scooter, so it's fun to see them theorize or whatever
Or Whatever.

Over the years seeing many members thinking on how to fudge with the systems only to break the bike and then the "Help me. What when wrong?" and "Stupid Suzuki Bike!"
 

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Is "KInda" obvious at this point, that OP has an idle/stalling problem, but adjusting the factory throttle stop is "NOT" the solution. Mostly a PSA for general info. to prevent others from doing so!! "Again", on "Any" vehicle with an ISC (IAC) idle speed/air bypass control, the "Actua Physical Factory" position/setting/opening of the throttle plate is way less than what is required to achieve the desired idle in "all cases", so a bad/dirty ISC or related components/sensors are always suspect of bad or no idle, yes there's a very small opening that allows minimal air, but is "mostly" to prevent throttle plate sticking, also the TPS attached to throttle plate shaft controls several things, moving throttle stop will change/upset is setting. The Basic adjustment for throttle stop, I came up with, link in post #4 , it only affects cold start rpms, not hot idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I tried the shim hack...005, .010, .025 did nothing. .045 raised it up about 100-150 rpm, but the idle quality was no better than stock so I put it back to stock.
I remember setting idle speed on early cadillac v8's at 450 rpm and seeing them run smooth as glass. Guess those days are long gone. Too bad there isn't a reasonably priced power commander like box for the burg, or is there?
 

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V8 verses a single thumper. One of the top reasons I do not have a Burgman 400. Too many singles growing up. I don't even like a 2 cylinder motorcycle.

Any single will run much rougher than a I-4 or V8. Now I-6 or V12's are very smooth.

I very much think you will never tune out the issues of a 1 cylinder unless you go in and add balance shafts and counter weights.

But good luck.
 

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I very much think you will never tune out the issues of a 1 cylinder unless you go in and add balance shafts and counter weights.
Burgman 400 already has balancer shaft, (And is smooth enough (for most).
Font Auto part Motor vehicle Metal Machine


OP seemed happy enough with his too, when he first acquired it. (In May '22).
I'm new to floorboards and cvt's, but now I get it. I'm shocked at how smooth and strong that little motor is, too.
Though I seem to remember some exhaust issues (Yoshimura), and THAT getting "customised" a little later :unsure: :whistle:.
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Too bad there isn't a reasonably priced power commander like box for the burg, or is there?
Never tried these "boosterplugs" personally, but folks I know with after market exhausts, have fitted them, with some success.
(Improved idle / acceleration throttle response/ ** CURE STALLING). (Edit - **added)
Boosterplug. (Link)
 

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Is not clear whether the OP is talking about idle fluctuations as seen on the tach needle or a rough idle, the B400 large bore, single cylinder engine fires* every 720 degrees, IOW the Burgman 400 fires once per 2 revolutions, a V8 engine fires 8 times in 2 revolutions, no comparison, the needle on the B400 will always fluctuate some (50rpm+/- or so :unsure:) and it will never be vibration free. The dying at idle has nothing to do with this.

*Fires = a power stroke
 

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Is not clear whether the OP is talking about idle fluctuations as seen on the tach needle or a rough idle,
OP said - "because it has died on me a couple of times while in a turn/moving traffic at idle"

The Boosterplug helps the cutting out situation. Seen it in practice.

I have run big singles for 50+ years. Am familiar with their operation.
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edited to add Off-Topic link (Balancing)
 

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I tried the shim hack...005, .010, .025 did nothing. .045 raised it up about 100-150 rpm, but the idle quality was no better than stock so I put it back to stock.
I remember setting idle speed on early cadillac v8's at 450 rpm and seeing them run smooth as glass. Guess those days are long gone. Too bad there isn't a reasonably priced power commander like box for the burg, or is there?
I get the dying at idle issue, but admittedly, he tried a "hack" as a remedy and has hopes of scooter idling better (or as a carburated 500 Cubic inch Cadillac V8 :unsure:), if the scooter has a problem with idling and/or quitting at idle there's an issue that needs fixing, adding aftermarket "whatever box" may enhance or add user control to a "Good/Normal Running" scooter, not repair an ongoing problem.

Will try again, the idle speed on the B400 fuel injected engine "is" controlled by the ISC valve, "not" the throttle plate, the throttle plate position is one of the parameters used by the ECM to command the ISC valve position to hold idle, if you move the throttle plate open a small amount with stop screw, the ISC will try to compensate/maintain "same" idle, if you open it too much, the ECM sees that TPS sensor is not at idle and ISC is deactivated.

Now if your engine is running rough/unstable, maybe you need to look at other basic things like, vacuum leaks, bad/clogged fuel injector, cylinder compression, carbon build up in cylinder, etc, etc.
 

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Similar problem, similar discussion. Spoiler alert - DIFFERENT OUTCOME.

"I´m actually pretty happy with my K8, but there is always a little but...
So, since I have Mivv Urban exhaust [ ie. AFTERMARKET ] on my Burgman it happens that it is popping and burbling from it on deceleration and engine sometimes even stalls.
It never happens with the original exhaust. "


'Cause I may be wrong, but if it were me, on a 2016, 6000 mile scoot, that was sold and bought only in May this year, "In great shape. No issues. "Like New", I'd be suspecting that meddled with muffler.

"Easy fix first"
 

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And there more to this story, exhaust is not OEM :unsure:, maybe start a question with all the facts :whistle:

 
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