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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The UH200 hauls ass,75mph at redline and it cruises 70mph all day. She's a lot of fun but compared to my PCX150 it loses hands down for ergos and comfort. Oh well you can't win them all. Seat too low and foot boards too high. LOL Same old complaints! I love the extra speed over the PCX, amazing lil' bike engine handling wise. I made a few mods today,like disconneting the trunk lamp,I never ride at night and it can run your battery down if the seat is not latched down. I also disabled the sidestand safety switch. I just cut the switch out and connected the two wires. I've been riding 55 years and don't need a switch to remind me to put it up. It was so annoying!!! The trunk light was just a simple unplugging. I checked the air filter and blew it out. It wasn't too bad but the prefilter was very dirty. The front tire needs to be replaced,I'll prolly go with a Michelin.. I changed oil/filter friday so it's good now,dirtiest oil I've ever seen! Prolly has 10K on it. Good little bike all in all.I got a killer deal.
 

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If the seat won't latch properly (and the plastic between the latch and the seat-bucket is cracked or broken out entirely), it's because the seat warped downward (upward bend in the middle) and is effectively shorter front-to-back. This can be fixed with a ratchet strap run from the nose of the seat to the seat latch loop at the rear, run over a box or strut set at the back edge of the rider's position on the seat. Use cardboard to protect the vinyl seat cover where the strap goes around the corners of the seat.

Use a very large zip-tie to hold down the switch for the under-seat light if you do this, it'll take a while and you don't want the trunk light to take your battery down.

You may want to consider sticking an electric heater under the seat (don't close the seat!) aimed at the underside of the seat to ease its flexing while you do this. If you do this, use a non-contact thermometer ("laser thermometer") to check that you aren't about to melt the seat or set it on fire... (100-120F should be fine).

The problem I'm talking about here (which may not be your problem!) can be caused by forcing the seat closed over an overstuffed underseat storage bucket on a hot day.
 

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The UH200 hauls ass,75mph at redline and it cruises 70mph all day
Be advised that the speedometer is about 9% optimistic. Indicated 70 is 65 measured by GPS -- still quite respectable, and it IS capable of holding that all day.
Pushing it harder than that for long periods will reduce belt life a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If the seat won't latch properly (and the plastic between the latch and the seat-bucket is cracked or broken out entirely), it's because the seat warped downward (upward bend in the middle) and is effectively shorter front-to-back. This can be fixed with a ratchet strap run from the nose of the seat to the seat latch loop at the rear, run over a box or strut set at the back edge of the rider's position on the seat. Use cardboard to protect the vinyl seat cover where the strap goes around the corners of the seat.

Use a very large zip-tie to hold down the switch for the under-seat light if you do this, it'll take a while and you don't want the trunk light to take your battery down.

You may want to consider sticking an electric heater under the seat (don't close the seat!) aimed at the underside of the seat to ease its flexing while you do this. If you do this, use a non-contact thermometer ("laser thermometer") to check that you aren't about to melt the seat or set it on fire... (100-120F should be fine).

The problem I'm talking about here (which may not be your problem!) can be caused by forcing the seat closed over an overstuffed underseat storage bucket on a hot day.
No the seat shuts perfect,I just don't like locking it while in the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If the seat won't latch properly (and the plastic between the latch and the seat-bucket is cracked or broken out entirely), it's because the seat warped downward (upward bend in the middle) and is effectively shorter front-to-back. This can be fixed with a ratchet strap run from the nose of the seat to the seat latch loop at the rear, run over a box or strut set at the back edge of the rider's position on the seat. Use cardboard to protect the vinyl seat cover where the strap goes around the corners of the seat.

Use a very large zip-tie to hold down the switch for the under-seat light if you do this, it'll take a while and you don't want the trunk light to take your battery down.

You may want to consider sticking an electric heater under the seat (don't close the seat!) aimed at the underside of the seat to ease its flexing while you do this. If you do this, use a non-contact thermometer ("laser thermometer") to check that you aren't about to melt the seat or set it on fire... (100-120F should be fine).

The problem I'm talking about here (which may not be your problem!) can be caused by forcing the seat closed over an overstuffed underseat storage bucket on a hot day.
No my seat locks fine,I just don't like to lock it while in the shop.
 

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I also disabled the sidestand safety switch. I just cut the switch out and connected the two wires. I've been riding 55 years and don't need a switch to remind me to put it up.
I've been riding about 50+ years also.... that's why I NEED all the reminders available. :whistle:
 

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I just cut the switch out and connected the two wires. I've been riding 55 years and don't need a switch to remind me to put it up. It was so annoying!!!
There's a ground protection diode in the side-stand switch itself for a reason, running a permanent jumper probably not the best idea, diodes control current flow and adds a specific resistance/voltage drop to a circuit. The side-stand switch relay is 'Usually" powered by same fuse as the ignition system. You could mechanically hold switch plunger in place, as in tying with wire, etc, instead of cutting wires, :unsure:
 

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You can install/solder a "1N4001 Micro 1Amp Diode" between the cut/jumped wires of side-stand switch, to protect circuit "Similar to OEM", Diodes are "directional" polarized, it will only work when correctly installed.
 

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The UH200 hauls ass,75mph at redline and it cruises 70mph all day. She's a lot of fun but compared to my PCX150 it loses hands down for ergos and comfort. Oh well you can't win them all. Seat too low and foot boards too high. LOL Same old complaints! I love the extra speed over the PCX, amazing lil' bike engine handling wise. I made a few mods today,like disconneting the trunk lamp,I never ride at night and it can run your battery down if the seat is not latched down. I also disabled the sidestand safety switch. I just cut the switch out and connected the two wires. I've been riding 55 years and don't need a switch to remind me to put it up. It was so annoying!!! The trunk light was just a simple unplugging. I checked the air filter and blew it out. It wasn't too bad but the prefilter was very dirty. The front tire needs to be replaced,I'll prolly go with a Michelin.. I changed oil/filter friday so it's good now,dirtiest oil I've ever seen! Prolly has 10K on it. Good little bike all in all.I got a killer deal.
I have a 2020 UH200ABS purchased new in early 2021, so have had mine for over a year. I can agree 100% with everything you say. This thing FEELS as heavy as my 1200cc Dresser! I'm a bigger guy and found that increasing the rear shocks preload by 1 click really helped handling. If you are on the lighter side, probably no reason to try.

Here are a couple little tricks I picked up from others: 1) replacing the under seat light with an LED one does 2 things, more light and MUCH less power draw if it doesn't get shut tight https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YKL1FFP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and 2) flashing LED break lights They each flash in perfect timing with each other for about the first 3 seconds. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QNF3ZDD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have a 2020 UH200ABS purchased new in early 2021, so have had mine for over a year. I can agree 100% with everything you say. This thing FEELS as heavy as my 1200cc Dresser! I'm a bigger guy and found that increasing the rear shocks preload by 1 click really helped handling. If you are on the lighter side, probably no reason to try.

Here are a couple little tricks I picked up from others: 1) replacing the under seat light with an LED one does 2 things, more light and MUCH less power draw if it doesn't get shut tight https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YKL1FFP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and 2) flashing LED break lights They each flash in perfect timing with each other for about the first 3 seconds. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QNF3ZDD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks great tips!!! Corbin sells a nice $800 seat. LOL
 
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