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I think I have just done it! First time in doing the 24 k service on my 2007 Burgman NA 650... Very different indeed (I thought my Gold Wing was hard to work with mmmmh...) Any way, after changing the transmission oil I used the torque wrench to tight the "level" bolt and the little ******* didn't lock; just kept on turning. WHAT DO I DO NOW????? Help please. Any idea?:blob8:
 

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I think I have just done it! First time in doing the 24 k service on my 2007 Burgman NA 650... Very different indeed (I thought my Gold Wing was hard to work with mmmmh...) Any way, after changing the transmission oil I used the torque wrench to tight the "level" bolt and the little ******* didn't lock; just kept on turning. WHAT DO I DO NOW????? Help please. Any idea?:blob8:
Personally, I would purchase a slightly larger bolt and re-tap the damaged threads to accommodate the new bolt. If you use this method it would be a good idea to flush the system to get rid of any metal fragments that might have contaminated the transmission oil in the bike. Another option is using a helicoil insert.

Hope things go smoothly with your repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Perhaps this could be answer, thank you for your advise and I will keep you post. Regards Clem
 

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Before you tap to a larger size try a longer bolt of the same size. The threads on that hole go back further than the stock bolt screws in so there are sometimes enough good threads left to catch the threads on a longer bolt.
 

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It sound more like cross-threading than over-torquing. Does it come out? What do the threads look like - mashed flat or busted off?

Both of the suggestions so far are reasonable although the first one will require a tap of the correct size and thread.

Torque wrench or impact wrench?

If you use a torque wrench make sure to go by the specs and not one ft/lb more.

You should never use an impact wrench to tighten nuts/bolts unless it has a clutch that can be set to a specified torque. They are great for getting bolts loose however.
 

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hi guys, thank you all! I did what Buffalo suggested and went for a larger bolt as like he said the original bolt only goes to 2/3 of the threat. I must say that this is only a provisional mend and I should go for a larger size bolt to do it properly. So for now and I will have a bit of a breather till the next service and this brings me to the next question, the schedule services in my book only go to the 24 K so where do I pick up my next service (30k) on my booklet? Any suggestions? . So far I love this Scooter BUT servicing it... don't know ha? One thing for sure the community in this forum is the best asset one can get when buying a Burgman thanks once again Clem
 

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And that is one reason I typically don't use a torque wrench. :-(
As an ex-tech, I can tell you the majority of people strip threads due to not using a torque wrench. A torque wrench won't strip threads if the torque is set to the correct value and the threads are not deliberately lubed with grease. His threads were either crossed or damaged before he started. For someone who is very experienced, it's ok not to use a torque wrench on minor servicing items if you know what you are doing. You obviously do, but many just don't and thus the stripped threads. You should never strip and re-build a modern day engine without the use of a torque wrench, it's just not the best and safest way to go. Only posted this to encourage the use of a torque wrench as we used to get sick and tired of the same old thing each week of folks bringing in their bikes for us to fix after stripping a perfectly good thread due to over exuberance with the spanners. But of course, it's up to individuals.
 

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Yes, I can appreciate using a torque wrench for certain functions, but not for simple tasks such as drain plugs etc. Having serviced my own bikes for close to 50 years now I've never stripped out a drain plug nor had one come loose. Over time, one develops a "feel" for drain plug tightening that (to me) precludes the use of a torque wrench. Your mileage may vary.
 

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I got tired of the service using air impact wrenches to tighten the oil plug. I do my own oil changes now.
I suspect that they are using torque sticks with those impact wrenches.

Doug from Kentucky
 

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I think I have just done it! First time in doing the 24 k service on my 2007 Burgman NA 650... Very different indeed (I thought my Gold Wing was hard to work with mmmmh...) Any way, after changing the transmission oil I used the torque wrench to tight the "level" bolt and the little ******* didn't lock; just kept on turning. WHAT DO I DO NOW????? Help please. Any idea?:blob8:
You can also try to use threaded inserts to fix it. My brother did the same thing to his oil drain plug on his motorcycle several years ago. A friend of ours used a threaded insert to repair it and it was good as new. They come in different sizes so you can find the exact same size as your current bolt thread size so you don't have to change to a bigger bolt. This would mean that you would have to drill out the hole slightly larger to fit the insert but the inner thread will be the same as the original size.

EZ-Lock makes some pretty good ones.
 

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The problem with using thread insert or helicoil is the drilling of the hole and getting aluminum chips inside the gearbox, which I would guess is not a good thing. If where the stripped hole is located it's located on a removable cover I would remove the cover then do the repair. If not, I've heard you can coat the drill bit and hole with lots of grease to try and catch most of the chips.

As for using a torque wrench, I always use one if there is enough room especially when the hole is aluminum. I remember my first vehicle, a 1973 Datsun pickup. I managed to strip most of the bolt holes on the cylinder head cover and water pump. I still have the Craftsman Digitorque torque wrench that I bought back in 1986, after my ownership of the Datsun. Since using the torque wrench I have yet to strip out a hole.
 

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the schedule services in my book only go to the 24 K so where do I pick up my next service (30k) on my booklet? Any suggestions? . So far I love this Scooter BUT servicing it... don't know ha? One thing for sure the community in this forum is the best asset one can get when buying a Burgman thanks once again Clem
you're right about using this forum as a resource.. here's another one useful especially for 650's... https://sites.google.com/site/testburgmancenter02/
 

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I'm an aircraft mechanic and I quesiton the 'I know by experience' method of toruqeing. Its a good theory as far as it goes, but you cant always tell what metal is being used and in fact I have a new Fiat which uses fiber in some places like the oil filter.

But there is always the Smoke test method - tighten the bolt down past tight, then one turn more until it feels loose, then back it off 1/2 turn (OUCH) just kidding
 

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But there is always the Smoke test method - tighten the bolt down past tight, then one turn more until it feels loose, then back it off 1/2 turn (OUCH) just kidding
Snicker :)

I always thread in by hand to ensure its not cross threaded. If it does not go in easy something is wrong, don't put a tool to it till you get it right!
 

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Check out LeDude's Burgman DIY site. Links are posted all over this site. I can change my oil, transmission fluid and final drive fluid in just over 30 minutes!
 

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I thought I was 'well drilled' and it takes me at least an hour.
 
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