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Well, I set about this job today.

First hurdle, one of the bolts securing the leg shield (m6) just would not come out, it would turn but not advance out - drill job!! :twisted:

Second hurdle, getting the engine to TDC! :twisted: I was on my own, family at work/school. Turn the engine on the left side of the back but the indicator is on the right - boy was I fed up of doing turns around the bike - I very nearly set up my video camera & monitor so I could see what was going on. :wink: (Next time I will!).

Valve clearances - easy peesy lemon squezzy! Well apart from the access. The service manual for the Olde Burgman details removing the carburettor to gain clear access - me no fancy that! I just disconnected and swung to one side and tied it out of the way. Inlets were slightly tighter than spec say 1 or 2 thou, Exhausts were a wee bit more tighter than spec, say 2 or 3 thou. Adjusting in the restricted access was just a bit fiddly.

Reinstall cylinder head cover :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: Tried out my new torque wrench and sheared one of the securing screws!! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: Yes it sheared below the surface so out with the drill - Oh No! - I cannot get a bead on it because of the seat bracket. Luckily the flexible drive shaft, dremel and the trusty 'eazi-out' managed to retrieve the varmint. I was sweating though and thought I was getting into head removal!

I phoned the dealer and new bolt available Thursday.

Oh well, not a good day.

I did take some pics and will post later.

TTFN
 

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Norm, with the sparking plug (notice that spelling?) out, take a wood dowel or somesuch and gingerly slide it in the hole as you gradually crank the engine over. After you mess with it awhile you'll get the feel and figure out when its at TDC. That way you don't have to wear your knickers out crawling around to the other side of the scoot.

Also, theres a mark somewhere on the cam chain sprocket. Find that, clean it good, put a dab of paint on it for the next time.

And throw that darn torque wrench away! Just snug em up and ride on.
 

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Luck Bloke!

Sorry to hear about your problems Norm. Having recently done this job on my 400 I understand the issues you faced. Most of them are merely inconvient, but the bolt breaking off in the block, geeeek. :shock: Glad you were able to get it out. Any idea why it broke?
 

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Oooh, Norman. Sorry to hear about the sheared bolt. My toys usually get a product applied to them called never seize. It's an aluminum paste in some kind of goo which I coat the threads of steel bolts on firetrucks, three wheelers, lawnmowers, engines, exhaust bolts, even lugnuts, and anything subjected to weather, heat, rusting, road salt, and bad luck in general. 'Had good results with it for some25 years now. I think I'll try it on the Burgman soon.
ps Welcome back.
 

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OOhhh...NormanB,

Some nervous moments I see. Maybe best not to use your torque wrench when you only need about 7-10 ft-lbs of torque. Some wrenches are not calibrated down that low. Did you have a quality snap on wrench or one of those old fashioned slider bar types? With all the wrenching you do, I would thing you could leave that thing in the tool box and feel it.

Good that you got the old bolt out....
 

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Norman,
I could say how sorry I was you had so much trouble but why should I lie.
I have gone through the same thing and you know the old saying " misery loves company "
So I'm glad I'm not alone :compress:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ted clement said:
Norm, with the sparking plug (notice that spelling?) out, take a wood dowel or somesuch and gingerly slide it in the hole as you gradually crank the engine over. After you mess with it awhile you'll get the feel and figure out when its at TDC. [snipped]And throw that darn torque wrench away! Just snug em up and ride on.
Thanks Ted – I should probably use the stick in the hole tip next time – knowing my luck it will be a head off job to get the broken dowel out. :oops: The torque wrench is going on ebay!! :twisted:
NYBubba said:
Sorry to hear about your problems Norm. [snipped] Glad you were able to get it out. Any idea why it broke?
Hi NYB - Yeah the torque wrench was pants! :lol:
Alan said:
Oooh, Norman. Sorry to hear about the sheared bolt. My toys usually get a product applied to them called never seize. [snipped]ps Welcome back.
Hi Alan, the bolt was not seized, the thread that played up could well have been a ‘maintenance induced defect' created by me on a prior strip and assemble I suspect I damaged the thread’. Thanks for the kind words m8 :) .
Timothy Ma said:
OOhhh...NormanB,
Some nervous moments I see. Maybe best not to use your torque wrench when you only need about 7-10 ft-lbs of torque. Some wrenches are not calibrated down that low. Did you have a quality snap on wrench or one of those old fashioned slider bar types? With all the wrenching you do, I would thing you could leave that thing in the tool box and feel it.
Good that you got the old bolt out....
Hi Tim – I have reached that conclusion already! Never bothered much before with torque wrenches – that’s what I get for trying too hard! It was a poor quality crock of **** that will be going on ebay soon for some sucker to buy! :twisted: It was at the lower end of its working range tho’! :shock:
Randy said:
Norman,
I could say how sorry I was you had so much trouble but why should I lie.
I have gone through the same thing and you know the old saying " misery loves company " So I'm glad I'm not alone :compress:
Cheers Randy – glad you got a warm feeling out of my misery!
:wink: :)
 

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Norman, and Others that might try the stick in the hole for TDC method:

As Norman perceived, theres a chance of breaking it off inside the cylinder if you're not careful because if you rotate the piston up too rapidly it can grab the stick. If you use a good hard dowel you're not goin to have any prob; DO NOT USE A PENCIL...they are too soft and will break off.
 
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