How do I

Caution..

Hi Allwalk....hearing that you and others are trying to get to those lightbulbs reminds me of the little mistakes that I made in taking off the top and bottom covers that surround the rear lights....because I purchased a Givi Top Box 52....those black colored plastic, I'll call them plugs, I found out are easily removed simply by pushing the inner part of the plug, then just pulling, carefully on the section of the plastic cover that you're trying to remove....I found this out today, because I broke two of them....and I will also be calling Givi on Monday to inquire why the spacers and bolts that are to be fastened to the frame were the wrong size....I wound up going to the local hardware store and getting the proper size metric bolts and plastic spacers.....now, after a bit of hassle....I can say that the topbox is a real nice addition, providing great storage, and safety for my wife when riding two-up. The addition, like many accessories was somewhat pricey ($400), but I'm planning on keeping the scoot for quite a while!!
Take care!!

Why are you changing lights so early?

1. Consult service manual before attempting this job. Without the manual, damage is easily invoked on this bike.

2. Keep track of each screws place. They're a slightly different color near the glove compartment, is why.

3. Without the right service information it can be difficult to re-assemble correctly.
For example, there's an expensive and delicate electronic module (ECM) contained in a rubber-like suspension cavity at the front inside, where the lights are.

4. This bike was made to keep authorized Suzuki mechanics rich, BUT with the manual and the right tools at your side, you'll become confident.

5. For the job I had to do (BurgyModule interface design), I discovered needless dis-assembly steps in the manual. You'll get to find out which ones they were after you're done.
While working alone one afternoon, I had to use wide packing tape to hold body parts together long enough to get the screws back into major areas (yuck).

6. Read the section in the manual about handling connectors and wiring. If the retaining tabs are not secure at certain connectors, module damage will result if these connectors disconnect while the ignition key is On.
In a worse-case scenario, if the ECM is not secure in its shock-mounting and it dangles while you ride, expect harness damage after its crimped wires fray and disconnect all by themselves by the weight and vibration of a dangling ECM module.

7. I suggest not working alone the first time you disassemble major plastic body parts and give yourself enough time to fully re-assemble in the same session.

AJ, where in the service manual did you find out how to get to the headlight bulbs to change them. I have read the manual and can’t find any reference to getting the lens off to get to the bulbs. It says for adjustment that you have to remove the front panel to get to the back of the headlights.
On page 10-31 list the procedure to actually change the bulbs:
“Headlight bulb replacement”

Remove the lead wire couplers
Remove the headlight socket cover
Remove the headlight bulb (1) by releasing the bulb spring (2)
Remove the position light (3)
Install the bulbs.

Redbird 2, I will scan this page and e-mail it to you if you think that will help. Send me your e-mail on PM.

I just got the manual a few days ago and it looks like it should save me some $$$$ on routine service. The 600 mile service on the wife’s burg cost $270 so I think the next service will more than cover the cost of the manual. (I paid about $43 including tax and shipping for the manual.)

Bill Trammell said:

AJ, where in the service manual did you find out how to get to the headlight bulbs to change them.

Click to expand...

You're right about removing the Front Panel. Also include the Handlebar Cover section and STOP at the bottom of 9-8. In the vague wording about removing the Front Cover, it is not mentioned of the great force required to detach it upward. The Front Cover clips onto the handlebars and there's no place to go except up.
Empty the compartments before beginning this job and have a clean and soft surface ready to set the Front Panel down onto after it is detached.

When you're instructed to remove the Front Panel (glove compartments box) be careful to simultaneously lift up on each side of the box near both mirrors because the screws that screw downward thread through metal clips that are slid onto integral sections of lower bodywork. These black metal clips slide off easily while working can fall and lodge into bodywork foam deep below necessitating the removal of floorboards and the like to get them out.
When I lost one into "the abyss", I borrowed another from near the radiator to easily complete the job and had only minor work after it was ordered ($1.75 us).
Once both clips are in view the next time I open the Burgy up, the clips (09148-00038) will be glued onto the protrusions so when the Front Panel does Fly Off, they won't disappear again.
Speaking of the Front Panel flying off, the manual doesn't mention that when you pull, the Front Panel has plastic retainer clips left of the key lock hole. When all the screws are out and the whole thing begins to give a little, I get my fingers into the now exposed key lock hole and pull directly rearward from there too.

After the Front Panel is off you'll see the back of the headlights at their connectors, just as the manual depicts.