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Discussion Starter #1
I have installed two dual-tone horns on my 2013 650 to replace the little "beep-beep" one from Suzuki.

I had also done this procedure successfully on my 400 before its demise.

I ran a new lead from the battery to an inline fuse and then into a relay and then to the new horns. All worked fine in the garage.

The first time I attempted to use the horn on the road, I barely heard it. Assuming it was the helmet and wind noise muting the sound, I tried it a few more times. Sometimes it would go full blast and then sometimes it would again be muted.

Home for inspection.

Nothing found wrong - worked fine at home.

Back on the road - same issue again.

Home again and inspection. Upgraded the wiring and fuse to 12 gauge from 14 gauge items. Worked fine at home.

Back on the road today and same issue (I am testing this on backraods so no one thinks I am nuts.) Randomly works ok but mostly it does not.

All relays, wires and fuses have been replaced and upgraded.

I am wondering if one of the horns in the set may be defective since they are piggy-tailed together in line, causing this. Or should each horn have its own separate wire running from the relay?

Or might there be something different about the way the 650's factory horn set-up is different from the 400's?
 

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All I can think of is are they getting enough power at speed and are they making good enough contact that when the bike is bumping around down the road that they are making a connection. Maybe try giving the bike gas to see if the horns still work? I'm no expert by any means so just kinda what came to mind.
 

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How did you run the ground wire for them. Did you run it all the way back to the battery or just to the frame. If to the frame that might be your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My first suspicion was that the 2 horns were drawing more power than the 14 GA wire from the battery to the relay could handle, causing a voltage drop by the time the current got to the horns. That is why I upgraded the wiring, relay and fuse to handle the load.

Some of the garage testing is done with and without the engine running. I am getting about 13.8 volts of current coming out of the relay (engine running) when the horn button is depressed, so I know that the voltage is there. What happens to it between the relay and the horns is the mystery.

The issue seems to be random, with more failures than successes. I was only made aware of it when I took the bike in for its state inspection last week. It worked fine when I left the house. At the inspection, it did its thing and the inspector looked at me like he was wondering if it was normal, but did not say anything to me. Thats why I went home and started looking at everything again.

Unfortunately, everything is located under the top dash cover which means stripping it down each time.

The only thing left from the orginal install is the 2 horns and the 14 GA wire from the relay to the 1st horn, then jumped over to the 2nd one. I will replace the 14GA with 12 GA wire, but instead of jumping one horn to the other, I will run a single wire to each horn from the relay.

If that fails, I can only suspect that one of the horns may be defective.

I also have an almost identical set-up running two driving lights on the front of the bike and they always work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How did you run the ground wire for them. Did you run it all the way back to the battery or just to the frame. If to the frame that might be your problem.
Grounded on the frame only. That was also something else I was going to correct.
 

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Grounded on the frame only. That was also something else I was going to correct.
The frame is not a good ground, there are no wires grounding it, the grounds all go the engine case or into the wiring harness.

Run a ground to the engine case.
 

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Is there space where the current horn is to mount an air horn to really get peoples attention? Or where did you mount yours at?
 

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FWIW, typical dual "highway blaster" horns need about 25 A for 0.022s to sound off, and 18A peak (10A average) to sustain their blast:



At 12 VDC a run of 14 gauge wire of less than 7 feet is entirely capable of handling that load.
 

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FWIW, typical dual "highway blaster" horns need about 25 A for 0.022s to sound off, and 18A peak (10A average) to sustain their blast:

At 12 VDC a run of 14 gauge wire of less than 7 feet is entirely capable of handling that load.
If he had a good ground to the battery or engine case yes but not the frame.
 

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The first rule of troubleshooting is to check the wires. I put dual FIAMM horns on both our bikes without problems, following LeDude's advice, putting a power block under the seat with a 15A circuit #14 wire run forward and wired to the horns in parallel. Not series. Maybe check that. It shouldn't make a difference, but maybe you'll find a wonky connector.

Otherwise, it sounds like your charging system is failing to provide enough juice when the bike is running hard. That points to the battery or the stator or the regulator and more headaches. Been there. Check the wires.

Regards
Scott Fraser
 

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The first rule of troubleshooting is to check the wires. I put dual FIAMM horns on both our bikes without problems, following LeDude's advice, putting a power block under the seat with a 15A circuit #14 wire run forward and wired to the horns in parallel. Not series. Maybe check that. It shouldn't make a difference, but maybe you'll find a wonky connector.

Otherwise, it sounds like your charging system is failing to provide enough juice when the bike is running hard. That points to the battery or the stator or the regulator and more headaches. Been there. Check the wires.

Regards
Scott Fraser
This is a possibility--monitor the system voltage while riding...
 

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Is it just me or is there some over thinking here. He said he grounded them to the frame. The power train and wiring harness is where the main grounds go and there are no grounding points on the frame. The frame that is connected to the power train at three engine mounting points, the rear shocks, and exhaust all rubber isolated at some point. There is no way that is a good ground at the frame, lol.
 

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Is it just me or is there some over thinking here. He said he grounded them to the frame. The power train and wiring harness is where the main grounds go and there are no grounding points on the frame. The frame that is connected to the power train at three engine mounting points, the rear shocks, and exhaust all rubber isolated at some point. There is no way that is a good ground at the frame, lol.
The OP stated in post #5 that he was going to change that...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Everything finished tonite.

Re-wired completely with 12 GA from start to finish. I also ran the ground wires from the horns directly back to the negative battery terminal. I was already on my 3rd relay so that was not replaced, however, it was functioning normally with the meter.

Only tried it for a few seconds tonite since it about 10:30 PM and I didn't think the neighbors would take too kindly to me making a racket.

I'll give it a good testing tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Everything checked out fine today. Did about 20 random tests today out on back roads - no mishaps, other than a few fields of cows, one with sheep, and several large birds munching on roadkill here and there. Also, got one very inattentive driver here in town.

Had to be the grounding issue. Many thanks to all for your comments and suggestions for changing that issue.
 

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iamlegend your link doesn't work, at least for me it doesn't.
 

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