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Discussion Starter #1
I checked my oem plug and it looked good so I checked the gap and it read .002 on the cheap Made in China gapping disc I have. I increased the gap to .007 and the Burgie stalled 2x's so I brought it down to .003 and it works great. In fact even better than before I checked plug. Seems to have more power. I am concerned that I cannot use the proper gap on my scoot and that it may be pointing to a voltage problem that I may need to address. OR, do I just need to get a real Gapper? :)
 

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CHEAPSKATE.................... :lol: :lol: Get one of these........... geeeeeeeeeeeezzzzz......!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Except for the hole in yours, I used the same thing. Accurate measurement? I don't know. When I opened the gap to .007 the side electrode seemed too hi at maybe a 20 degree incline over the center electrode. It just didn't look right and it didn't run right. :?
 

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i wish i could tell you exactly whats happening in concrete terms BUT, i would put the plug gap BACK to the position that you originally had it when you first removed it. i have to somehow think that your first "adjustment" is incorrect. putting that issue aside for the more knowledgeable foks to answer, what i do know is the speak plug gap allows the plug to fire a strong speark throughout the entire RPM range. the wider the gap, the more voltage it takes the coil to jump that gap ( obviously your first initial gap adjustment way way too much) now .003 is likely just fine,it may turn out to be just a tad too much at HIGHER rpm. one way to tell is to perform a "plug chop". to do this, put your plug removal tools in your pocket and take a spin down the road froma dead stop to about 60 mph, hold there for about 5 seconds and hit the kill switch !. pull over to the side and remove the spark plug (its gonna be a bit warm!) and look at the color of the electrode. if its still a light tan color you are doing great. if its looking fouled or lean in any way,then adjust the gap and try again.

now that ive typed all this i realize that i do this with carbureated engines to check for lean or rich conditions...not sure if it holds true for fuel injected as the EFI usually adjusts automatically via the O2 sensor feedback....

ive never played with the plug gap on any of my EFI engines...i just leave 'em alone and replace the plug at the normal interval
 

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ok I am really stupid, If my engine is turning over rpms equal to 60 mph and I kill electricity to the plug without killing fuel or oil pressure or inny outey air oil gas whatsis combinations shcwooping around my electrode (dang is it getting hot in here ) why is some of that not going to get on my probe and make it look like it isn't firing, um because it isn't is it ?

and since this fuel injected bike loses fuel pump but not fuel pressure immediately does that make a difference ?

my hair hurts, i need a beer
 

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Plugs these days tend to come pre-gapped.

Actually, if you want to use a gap tool, either get one with wires or a flag one, but not one of those disks ones since they are always increasing and make sure you read the "MM" readings, not the "in" readings.
 

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Maybe you have a decimal point off, but the numbers don't sound right to me. It's probably just typos on the decimal points, but here are the numbers from page 0B-4 of the Service Manual.

Spark plug gap (Standard)
0.7 - 0.8 mm (0.028 - 0.031 in)


Like happytech, I generally leave mine alone. When I check it, I use a wire type sparkplug tool.


Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ah geez! The stinkin 'Made In China' sticky tag was all over the other side of the gapper and made it difficult to read numbers that were already hard to see. I scraped it off and read the word...Millimeters. Chris, it was .030 in. not .003 in. like you said. The sweet spot is correct though. .030 in. on the one side is approximately 0.8 on the other side. The metric side. That is where I got the most performance with it on the center stand. Today I tried it out on the super slab at 70 mph and the engine ran perfectly.
I feel a little foolish now about using the inches side but glad that through trial an error I just happened to find the correct gap anyway. OK, OK it's been 37 years since I gapped a plug. That was on a 1966 Fleetwood Brougham.
Let's see...How did SNL's Roseanne Rosannadana end her misdirected diatribes? Oh yeah......."Never Mind" :D
 

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Hey, I understand. This weekend was a trip to 35 years ago for me. I replaced the radiator, valve cover gasket and sparkplug wires on the 99 Camry. On the 03 Subaru Outback, I replaced the upstream oxygen sensor...the hard one to reach and the more expensive one. I saved about $400.

It would've been more fun to be out riding, but there's a lot of satisfaction to doing something like you did and knowing it was done right. And you saved a bunch of $$. :)

Chris
 

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Hammer said:
Ah geez! The stinkin 'Made In China' sticky tag was all over the other side of the gapper and made it difficult to read numbers that were already hard to see. I scraped it off and read the word...Millimeters. Chris, it was .030 in. not .003 in. like you said. The sweet spot is correct though. .030 in. on the one side is approximately 0.8 on the other side. The metric side. That is where I got the most performance with it on the center stand. Today I tried it out on the super slab at 70 mph and the engine ran perfectly.
I feel a little foolish now about using the inches side but glad that through trial an error I just happened to find the correct gap anyway. OK, OK it's been 37 years since I gapped a plug. That was on a 1966 Fleetwood Brougham.
Let's see...How did SNL's Roseanne Rosannadana end her misdirected diatribes? Oh yeah......."Never Mind" :D
Hey! what you did was just demonstrate that we are all - human..... :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
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