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Discussion Starter #1
Gang, I have followed Norman's very detailed and excellent instructions posted in the gallery on removing the left leg shield from my 400 in order to clean the filter. When I got to the final step - removing the filter - I hit a snag. The screws through the filter were apparently machined on and are so tight, I cannot break them lose. Indeed, one is showing signs of stripping after the many attempts I have made to break it loose. I thought of using a "liquid wrench" type product but fear damaging the filter itself or other parts of the system by the use of chemicals. Does anyone have any thoughts/suggestions on how I can get these 2 screws out? I am willing to try anything. Bottom line is the filter is to be cleaned every 1800 miles and I am already there. I have it all torn down and refuse to reassemble until the filter is cleaned. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks in advance. I know if anyone can help, it is the folks of this forum.
 

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This happened to me too! (It was a pre-owned).

Well you try an impact driver if you have one - I did but it did not work out.

I had to drill it out! Not too difficult. (BTW - the pic in my gallery is after the event - with the new screws).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Okay, I tried drilling the screws out - cordless drill must not have enough torque. All I got were metal shavings and nearly stripped the heads entirely. Any other thoughts on how to make these budge? I hate to reassemble everything only to take it in and let the Suzuki shop charge me break her down again. Thanks again for the suggestions.
 

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Not quite sure what you mean - 'stripped the heads entirely'

I dont want to granny you on this so forgive me.

First you need a good drill and a sharp drill bit. The drill bit should be sized to about a millimetre less than the core diameter of the thread (IIRC) it is a 6mm bolt so a 4.5 mm drill should be fine. The you need to drive a good centre punch hole in the head smack in the centre and then with your aim good and true drill down the centre line axis of the bolt. As you clear the shank the head will probably come clean off. This means there is no effective clamping force so the threaded part of the bolt will likely just turn out by hand. If not continue to drill until you have a total depth of say 20mm and then insert an 'eezi-out' to extract the bolt shank if you have a need run a tap down to clean the threads up some.

Here is a little article that may help visualise my diatribe above.

I would exercise some caution in the use of 'eezi-outs' - only use a small tap wrench on them as they can be prone to shearing off - and then you will have a real booger of a job!

Here is some more background reading
 

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Is it just me or is anyone else starting to think these Burgmans were assembled by students of the Marquis de Sade?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Norman. Sorry to be a dolt on this. I thought by "drill it out" you simply meant put a screwdriver bit in the drill verses a screwdriver. That did not work. Now I see what you are talking about (thanks for the illustrative article too), so I will give this a try. Thanks.

And yes, Buzz, some real masochist seems to have attached a number of Burgman parts :evil:
 

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With heavyweight industrial strength Loctite! I'm pretty much a gorilla & I've had a terrible time with some of these fasteners!
 

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And on the flip side...

I agree! I had to use an impact driver on several parts...hubby had been hiding it from me all these years! (Never knew such a thing existed until I worked on the scoot...amazing tool!)

On the flip side there were several screws/bolts that were barely holding on by a thread! Must have been a different gorilla! :?
 
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