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Old man needs some help/guidance.. :) Was starting to do the How-to..650 Fork Suspension Upgrade..

http://www.burgmanusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=33759

Trying to remove the damper-rod bolt at the bottom of the forks ... the damper-rod is turning inside the forks... the manual says in this case to temporarily install the fork spring, spacer, washer and cap to prevent the cyclinder from turning.... the problem is that I have not removed any of that yet....

Looks like I am dead in the water before getting started... just got this leftover 2011 the end of January and can say that this is the harshes riding bike I have had in my forty some years of riding...the suspension sucks big time....

So where do I go from here... remove the forks and just replace the fluid with 15wt hoping that will help some? Don't think I can live with the way it rides now....


Decided to just add a spacer for some pre-load and put 15w oil back in and give it a try... and look into this another day...


Thanks... Hamie
 

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What i had to do was buy a Allen socket and loose Allen wrench. I took the Allen socket and pressed/hammered out the too short bit then cut the loose Allen to be long enough to use in the socket and pressedit in the socket. I then put the socket with an adapter on my 1/2" impact gun to get it off. Since the bolt has blue Loctite on it you might be able to do it by hand if you can tighten it first to free up the threadlocker.
 

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Thanks for the replies... I will have the right tools needed when I try this again...

Thanks..Hamie
 

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As probably the only owner of a Burgman 650 with a real fully adjustable cartridge fork with CBR 600 internals, I can say that the ultra-short stroke fork in combination with the small front wheel makes all kinds of fine tuning futile, if comfort is your goal.

The suspension specialist who custom made my fork agreed that the single-most important improvement was a stiffer spring to get rid of the sag.

My front end is firmly planted in turns, but uneven pavement is still no pleasure.
 

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When I did mods to my last set and LoJo's compressing the fork tubes helped a great deal in removing the rod retension bolt. I utilized a ratchet strap to compress the shock as I did not have a bit that would fit into the hole. But, this is a safety hazard shluld the strap fly off so best to use the impact driver or build a rig for the purpose.
 

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I had the same problem when I installed the RaceTech cartridges. The bolt holding the factory damper just spun. Tried the impact gun but it just spun it faster. Ultimately, after you have removed the cap, spring, washer, etc. you can jam something down into the fork tube to hold the damping cone and hold it. I think I finally used a 2' long tire iron. Luckily I was able to get one side apart so I could visualize what it required to hold the dampening tube or what ever it is called. Once I had it secured any allen wrench will loosened the bolt.

As an aside, I drilled out the existing holes to 3/8" rather than adding new holes as the instructions indicate. I also used a little longer, roughly 1/2" more, preload spacer to raise the front to compensate for my slightly larger rear tire. Since I also replaced the springs with what RaceTech recommended for my weight the handling has improved significantly. I guess all I'm saying is this modification is worth the hassle.
 

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I used a wooden Broom handle to jam down in the fork to to hold the dampner from turning then used a electric impact on the socket head cap screw.
 

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[quote="(The bike) is the harshes riding bike I have had in my forty some years of riding...the suspension sucks big time.[/quote]

+I I too have been riding forty + years and had some 30+ bikes, (some with girder forks!) and can say that the front suspension of the 650 burgman is the worst of them all.
 
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