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Discussion Starter #1
I need some help. I purchased the radio pod from Jac and a good quality Pioneer stereo for my bike. The pod has 2 speakers hooked up to the front speaker wires on the pod and there are wires there for rear speakers. I went to the cycle dealership and took the pod with me to have them recommend headphone speakers for me. They said there is absolutely no way to hook up headphone speakers to those rear speaker wires. I then took the radio pod to Best Buy's car stereo experts and also to 3 other places who told me the same thing.

I know that somewhere out there, someone has helmet speakers that have been hooked up to the rear speaker wires on a car stereo. There has to be some way to hook up an adapter to the rear speaker wires so that a standard headphone plug can be attached.

Has anyone in this forum got an answer??? I'm at a loss.

With a Clearview XL shield, do you think I can get decent sound from the speakers on the radio pod at highway speed, wearing a helmet without helmet speakers?

Suggestions please!

Thanks,

Buzz
 

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Helmet speakers from radio

I have done something similar to this. I would suggest wiring the rear speaker wires to a standard headphone jack. Then purchase an inline volume control (the output from the stereo unit will overpoewer the headphone speakers) or just hoopkup a set of headphones that already have a volume dial built in.

Once you try this to confirm it works to your statisfaction, then just purchase a good set of helmet speakers and wire everything into the bike.

I installed a satellite radio with no headphone jack. I wires the preouts to an amplifier, then to a headphone jack. I use an inline volume control to manage the output to the headset.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Andrew, that's exactly what I've been asking them to do but the are all telling me you can't take 2 wires from rear left and 2 wires from rear right and somehow hook a single wire headphone jack to 4 wires.

Buzz
 

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Buzz,

OK, here's what I know: Any headphone set will have at least 3 wires in the cord, usually red, white, & a bare shield conductor wrapped around the other two. Red is usually the right channel hot (or signal) wire, white is usually the left channel hot (or signal) wire, & the bare covering conductor is the ground (or signal return).

Now some headphones will have a seperate shield/ground wire for each of the red & white wires. In that case, you can use the shields for the left & right respectively, making a 4 wire connection quite simple. In the case of the common shield/ground (one shield/ground wire for both channels) you can try to tie the grounds from the left & right channels together & connect them to the single shield/ground wire, & in many cases this will work just fine.

On some high end units, though, you may run into a problem where the two channels will interact together causing audible noise on both channels. This is because the unit uses seperate circuitry on the ground side of the circuit that doesn't permit a clean path for the signal return. In this case, your only choice is to do a discrete 4 wire connection.

You should also be aware that some head units do not output the full range of audio signal on all 4 outputs, in this case you will find that neither the front nor rear speakers sound right by themselves. They are intended to work together to provide the full dynamic range of audio, & the balance & fader controls have to be near the center of thier respective ranges to sound good.

Most car speakers operate best at either 4 or 8 ohms (resistance measurement), while most headphones have a much higher impedance (signal resistance load). What this boils down to is that you will need to turn the volume waaaay down or risk blowing up the headphones (& possibly your ears with them) whether or not you have an in-line volume control on the headphones.

This may be as clear as mud, but I've tried to relate this in a manner that is clear to the average person. If you need further clarification, feel free to PM me, & I'll do my best to help.
 

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Buzz,
I have the Jac Vinson pod and bought it with a 200 watt stereo from Jac. I listen to it all the time on the freeway at 80+ and can here it fine. I have a clearview XXL. I noticed that if you move the fader to 100% front then I can hear it better. Some on this site said that it does not matter where the fader is set, but I really do hear a difference.

Kelly
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Kelly, you mean you get good quality, understandable music with a full face helmet on at 80mph? I have the Clearview XL but just got it a few days ago and haven't installed the radio pod yet. Hope to this weekend. I'll give it a try on the interstate.

Thanks,

Buzz
 

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Buzz,
Yes I do get good quality music at 80+ MPH. I burned a 60+ song mp3 disk and play it for hours. I don't even have the volume cranked, (But almost). I am very happy with the Pod system from Jac.

Kelly
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Greg, thanks alot for that link. I printed it out and am going to take it to the local auto stereo shop and say "Look! How come these guys can do it and you can't? " Maybe they can with this diagram and the ideas in the conversation. Thanks again.

Kelly, I am also happy with Jac's pod and the stereo I bought. I will get in installed this weekend and try it with just his speakers. I just didn't expect to have so much trouble trying to get helmet speakers hooked up.

Buzz
 

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Try this link to Sierra Electronics : http://www.sierra-mc.com/proddetail.asp ... %2DMA%2D38
This part is described as "J & M Headset Adaptor for automotive-type radios".
You can always call them to see if this will work in your situation.

Don
I had a couple of sets of old J&M head sets from way back. They were from the days before the microphones were amplified. I got the adaptor direct from J&M to hook to the stereo I put on my 650. Since the microphone was no longer needed with this set up, I just clipped it off, and just use the speakers. It works fine. Seems the adaptor was less expensive direct from J&M too.
 
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