Hi I do not know the definitive answer to your question - you will need an expert for that.
My gut feeling is the current per se is less of an issue than the heat from the bulb and the effect on the surrounding plastic lamp structure basically as you increase the current (double the wattage same voltage) the heating effect rises on a square law.
flojo, I guess I'm one of the few that havn't experienced a lamp blowout, but my understanding is that standard H4 60/55's are ok to use without upgrating the fuse. Some have mentioned the need to "fold down the tabs" on the lamp base to get a proper fit, and noboby has mentioned any melting plastic issues. Those who have gone to 100/80 have had to use a beefier fuse, plus that kind of firepower might land you in a spot with the law.
Thanks Bleeder, I have been wondering about the fuse situation with the 60/55s in place. I have not changed mine out yet, but when I do I think I would want to up the lamp intensity a bit. I would appreciate hearing from others who have longer term experience with the 60/55s in place. I am most concerned with the drain on the electrical system, wiring and heat effect on reflectors and other plastics. If anyone can comment, it would be appreciated. :?
I personally would not be concerned about the heat generated from a 60 watt bulb. Regarding both of your concerns though, I would suggest joining one or all of the Yahoo groups and getting whatever information you can from there.
Howard, a lot of 400 owners have changed to the 60/55 watt bulbs when their stock bulbs burned out. I did it on mine and my friend's been using them for over a year. I have not heard anyone comment on any problems.
Each fuse for each lamp side can handle 10 amps before each blows.
That means (where's my calculator) that if you give each
headlamp circuit 12 volts (it's always a little more) and they are a 60 watt filament then
your doing about 6 amps in the slow lane. That is half of what each circuit
can handle if you're rating the entire circuit capability on what the fuses
were designed to handle.
It can go either way >>
Suzuki put 10 amp fuses in a circuit that would melt if the average current
requirement of an aftermarket lamp draws more than half the fuse rating.
The fuses are for short circuits only.
Suzuki anticipated that owners would run aftermarket headlamps
that require more wattage.
The fuse plus the wiring (crimps/pins/wire gauge length) can handle
what you throw at it up to about 100 watts for each lamp installed.
The excess current capability of the fuse is for surge current of a
cold lamp first turning on.
Who wants to be a test rat?
I do I do!
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