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Just clean out the clutch bell as described above in my post using some brake cleaner or thinners. This removes the invisible layer of resin on the inside of the drum.

Revving the engine to 4000k causes the dust to be blown out of the way and gives a better clutch action for a while.
 

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I noticed in your pictures your clutch bell had not gotten hot enough to discolor, yet your clutch plates had gotten hot enough to melt and separate the resin from the fibers while operating, knowing that other clutch pads have reached much much higher temperatures, hot enough to blue or brown temper steel without melting the pads and separating their components, wouldn't that be an indication of faulty pads failing due to heat? we could prove this to Suzuki with a simple torch test and end this problem
 

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Hi Mikey, no not really. The colour of the clutch pads is indicative of when the pads are cleaned and deglazed after a judder develops. Some leave it for months and months without doing anything about it causing the judder to worsen and the pads and bell to get very hot and blue. And of course the clutch gets hotter on some bikes than others due to the type of riding carried out and conditions encountered. Others do the clutch clean and deglaze fairly soon after it develops, as I did with no colour effects. I've done a clean and deglaze on a variety of bikes with auto clutches of this type and pretty much they are all the same and all suffer from the same issue when they get dirty or glazed pads. It's just less noticeable on many smaller bikes, or as I said, on the Silverwing. Smaller engined bikes tend to have the clutch lock up quite quickly with less heat generated which also helps the situation. As I said, I don't regard it as a fault. It's one of the those things that benefits from preventative maintenance though and if carried out, you will never get a clutch judder.
 

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And how do you guys remove clamps that hold wiring on CVT cover? :confused:
 

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And how do you guys remove clamps that hold wiring on CVT cover? :confused:
I removed mine, once. Tore them up. Bought pricey OEM replacements but since, have left the wires attached and carefully leaned the cover to the side while doing whatever job was at hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
WOW was that easy !! Thanks for your help... My clutch pads looked identical. I changed the gear oil while I was at it. Mikeberg recommended 10w40 for gear oil... Why not the popular 90w... Just curious. Anyhow, the burg runs like brand new with no groan and no vibration �� thanks again.
 

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I removed mine, once. Tore them up. Bought pricey OEM replacements but since, have left the wires attached and carefully leaned the cover to the side while doing whatever job was at hand.
Such a small fry but requires lots of attention :D
 

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And how do you guys remove clamps that hold wiring on CVT cover? :confused:
Quickest and easiest way is to just cut them, but leave enough of the plastic to just make a couple of holes in so after you have done your work you can just thread a small computer size plastic cable tie through. You can then loosely tie off the cables to hold them in place. Sorry no pics.
 

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wow was that easy !! Thanks for your help... My clutch pads looked identical. I changed the gear oil while i was at it. Mikeberg recommended 10w40 for gear oil... Why not the popular 90w... Just curious. Anyhow, the burg runs like brand new with no groan and no vibration �� thanks again.
well done!
 

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Hi yankphan, over here in the UK many dealers only charge about 15mins (about $23) extra labour to do the clutch de-glaze and clean if done at the same time as changing the rear transmission oil. That's all the time it takes since you already have the transmission case open anyway. Just one extra nut to undo and the clutch can be cleaned and de-glazed.
 

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So I decided to take the cvt cover off of my 400 burg. Saw all the dust and blew it all out with compressed air. I did not take anything apart... Just blew it out real good. Put the cover back on and now every time I use it (cold)... Such a loud groaning sound coming from the clutch on take off... Also feels like a lot more vibration than usual at slow rpm taking off. What happened ? I have about 7k miles on it.
GROANING SOUND.?????? I think it is your wife......!!!! "OMG......!! He spent so much money on that piece of junk!!!" ;)
 

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Well, I followed these instructions today to try to calm down my mirror shaking, filling rattling judder. The scuffing of the shoes is pretty straight forward, but I took my front clutch apart and the rollers in there were all full of flat spots. You could just feel the chatter looking at them. I scuffed them up with some 3m scotch brite pads, cleaned everything, scuffed and cleaned the belt, put it together and she is buttery smooth! No judder, none, nada! I'm a little lost why by the looks of those rollers, but I'm not complaining.
You should see my clutch holders I built, lol, they're 'odd' to say the least, but they worked.
Thanks for the write up!
Mike.
 

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Man, I hope you all just saved me a ton of money. That is the only thing I've hated about my bike. I went today and started ordering new parts trying to fix the judder as I now know it as. It only has ten thousand miles on it now.
 

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And how do you guys remove clamps that hold wiring on CVT cover? :confused:
I removed mine by first undoing the electrical connection and then removing the ABS sensor bracket assembly. The cover is then pulled away and turned so you are looking at the inside of it. You will see the center of the push pins sticking thru. I then took a small nail punch of the same diameter and simply pushed them out thru the front. No damage and totally reusable.
 

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I removed mine by first undoing the electrical connection and then removing the ABS sensor bracket assembly. The cover is then pulled away and turned so you are looking at the inside of it. You will see the center of the push pins sticking thru. I then took a small nail punch of the same diameter and simply pushed them out thru the front. No damage and totally reusable.
Good job!
 

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Man, I hope you all just saved me a ton of money. That is the only thing I've hated about my bike. I went today and started ordering new parts trying to fix the judder as I now know it as. It only has ten thousand miles on it now.
Same here, my only complaint, and a big one! I just turned 10,000 miles too. The dealer Supposedly did it at 7,000 miles? We'll see how long it lasts this time.
 
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