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2022 Matte Deep Blue Kymco AK 550
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Was thinking of putting this in the "How To" section but then this discussion has become NOT a "How To" thread but rather a general CVT and Filter discussion about cleaning the filter and/or even having the filter installed... so I am editing this to suit the trend indicated by the preferences of posters.

So on May 3, 2021 I finally decided it was past time to check and clean or replace the CVT filter on my Burgman 650 ABS. It has not been done since I bought it with 3301 miles on the odometer and it now has 21671 miles. It is a simple enough process to do so really don't know why I didn't do it before. I have no excuse.

So that's what I did. There really wasn't much of anything on the filter (2013 to 2021) so I used very low air pressure to blow off what there was and put it back on.

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That is so much easier than the 2002-2012 650.

In my area I seldom ever ride in dusty conditions. When I last took my filter out it had 25,000 miles on it and was clean.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Funny thing... I couldn't find any broken tabs or plastic bits. I think they were already gone before.

@Dave_J , I very vaguely recall checking the filter on my 2005 Burgman 650 but I really don't remember what I had to do to get to it. I just thought I'd better check it before this next riding season gets too far along.
 
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I might leave mine out next time (GASP).

I think just a fine mesh stainless steel screen should work up here in the Great NorthWet.

The one I removed from my 2nd 2008 with just 305 miles was a little dirty. The engine air filter was dirty too and had a lot of cherry pits from a rodent. The first owner was a large cherry orchard on the dry side of the state, very dusty.
 

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Silly me, I took the 3 piece lower panels off like the owners manual shows to do. Ended up breaking the forward most tab near the radiator, and wrestled with the plastic push pin near the exhaust as it wouldn’t release. One and done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Silly me, I took the 3 piece lower panels off like the owners manual shows to do. Ended up breaking the forward most tab near the radiator, and wrestled with the plastic push pin near the exhaust as it wouldn’t release. One and done.
You must have a different service manual than I do. My SM states only to remove the footboard panel that I removed and not more than that. I've had the entire set of lower panels off before but didn't need to do that for this task.
 

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You must have a different service manual than I do. My SM states only to remove the footboard panel that I removed and not more than that. I've had the entire set of lower panels off before but didn't need to do that for this task.
my manual part# ends with “-03A” December 2012. I’m guessing yours is newer
 

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My 120 HP snowmobile used to explode like a shotgun, $90 belts way too often. Someone suggested they alleviated a similar issue on the same sled model by removing the plastic belt cover and foam sounds insulation, leaving just the perforated steel explosion cage. As soon as I made that change letting more cooling air on the CVT, my CVT belt life more than doubled. Heat kills.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
my manual part# ends with “-03A” December 2012. I’m guessing yours is newer
Yes, my SM part # ends with -03E and the inside back cover showing the same part # as the front cover shows August 2017 and is for the model years 2013-2018 only.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I can’t see it from online diagrams: where is the warmed CVT cooling air exhaust hole located? Just curious.
Looking closer at the CVT case breakout diagram there is a ribbed channel (ribbed on the outside) that curves over the top of the driven pulley just above the inlet filter port. Per what I see cooling air enters through the filter port and due to the inner ribbing of the casing moves around that driven pulley then under and around the driving (front) pulley then up to the electric CVT motor gears (the motor itself is outside the CVT case but the gearing is inside above the driving pulley) at the top front and finally out through that exhaust channel over the top toward the rear of the CVT case.

Here is a photo of the inside half of the CVT case with the pulleys and gears installed that I think shows this clearly. The output channel for cooling air starts at the white nylon gear set and curves to the rear. You can see that channel is open to the rear toward the rear tire. When you have the right footboard lower panel removed you can look up behind the footboard and see this opening at the back of the CVT. You can see the opening also in both of your photos above the filter port as well as the photo in my first post here with the filter removed (exit opening is in the upper left corner of that photo).
93585
 
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My 120 HP snowmobile used to explode like a shotgun, $90 belts way too often. Someone suggested they alleviated a similar issue on the same sled model by removing the plastic belt cover and foam sounds insulation, leaving just the perforated steel explosion cage. As soon as I made that change letting more cooling air on the CVT, my CVT belt life more than doubled. Heat kills.
Now I'm just wondering, why would a snowmobile ever need any sort of filter except fuel and oil with dust presumably completely absent?
 

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Looking closer at the CVT case breakout diagram there is a ribbed channel (ribbed on the outside) that curves over the top of the driven pulley just above the inlet filter port. Per what I see cooling air enters through the filter port and due to the inner ribbing of the casing moves around that driven pulley then under and around the driving (front) pulley then up to the electric CVT motor gears (the motor itself is outside the CVT case but the gearing is inside above the driving pulley) at the top front and finally out through that exhaust channel over the top toward the rear of the CVT case.

Here is a photo of the inside half of the CVT case with the pulleys and gears installed that I think shows this clearly. The output channel for cooling air starts at the white nylon gear set and curves to the rear. You can see that channel is open to the rear toward the rear tire. When you have the right footboard lower panel removed you can look up behind the footboard and see this opening at the back of the CVT. You can see the opening also in both of your photos above the filter port as well as the photo in my first post here with the filter removed (exit opening is in the upper left corner of that photo).
View attachment 93585
Perfect. I see it now 👍🏻
 

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Now I'm just wondering, why would a snowmobile ever need any sort of filter except fuel and oil with dust presumably completely absent?
It’s not a filter. Even the engine, draws unfiltered air. It’s for sound deadening. The one drawback to running without it, is the CVT noise is very noticeable while riding.
 

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Air flow.

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If I hadn’t already decided to do away with the filter altogether, I think I would have looked into Making a custom side filter where that plastic snorkel fits to the exterior moulded louvers.
access would be a breeze- NPI. Surprised Suzuki didn’t do it.
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I don't think I saw you mention the two plastic tabs at the top of the second filter cover the first one has to fit in. Oh and if the foam part is in good shape you can clean it. I used my house vacuum with the soft brush to suck out the hair or other stuff. It's a bit safer than using 90 psi shop air.
 
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