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You've learned your way around this bike quick, which is a good thing. Hopefully you'll just have fluid/filter maintenance going forward. I hope you get it running right and have a rideable bike to enjoy. They are so much fun, you're paying your dues, I hope you will have miles of smiles soon.
 

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So far you paid a good price. Some pay $1,000 and then do all this maintenance you have done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
Got the bad back tire stemmed and inflated, finally got to test just now but only had a couple minutes—got it to 50 and it didn’t even blink! One weird thing—I guess there’s pretty strong engine braking at low speeds when decelerating? Or else what was that?

will run more tests :)
 

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The 2013 and newer do not have the "Drop 2 gears and drop the clutch" engine braking.
Its a good thing to learn than when you decel, pull just a wee bit of brake lever to turn on the rear brake light.

I have two kits here that must be wired in to the turnsignals. It has a decel sensor that will flash the turnsignals when you let off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
Yes major engine braking …. in time you will learn how to use it to your advantage. You will soon shop for a throttle lock solution.
Nice, looking forward to getting used to it…an advantage bc it means less braking needed basically?

I’m kinda spoiled, I think it already has a throttle lock ❤
 

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hooraaay another burgy on the road, now git the wifey to polish it up real good, an when she's done git her something shiney, like a new socket set she can use to do minor maintenance with, or maybe even a ring or bracelet with I love burgys engraved on it sommers,
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 · (Edited)
hooraaay another burgy on the road, now git the wifey to polish it up real good, an when she's done git her something shiley, like a new socket set she can use to do minor maintenance with, or maybe even a ring or bracelet with I love burgys engraved on it sommers,
Lol Mikey…I don’t think she loves that I put this much time into it already…gonna have to bundle her up and get her on it when it’s sunny and safe and fun and see if I can change her mind :)

look like lots of opinions on this forum re: tires. Dave I think I’ve seen that you run Shinkos—that’s what I ran on my Suzuki Intruder and was always pretty happy with em. The 10-year-old ones on the scoot right now are the famed BattleAxes.

So I also think ppl have said that bigger bikes like this are also better for winter driving bc their big faring and windshields keep the chill off better, yeah? That would be nice…I’m thinking of making this my daily driver (not that I drive every day anymore) this winter. Thoughts on heated seats or grips? And do ppl run them out of the glove box outlet or usually wire them to the battery itself? Also, once you start farkling, do ppl go to bigger batteries or something to handle the additional draw on the current? My Piaggio BV200 is said to barely charge the alternator already, so adding things to its battery load isn’t a great call…I would think seat heating would take a good amount of juice.

Squeaking/Squealing from final drive area still happening. Hope to go for a longer run today and see if some more use fixes it. Am also going to change the final drive oil again since the first change still left some crud in there…since the engine oil and other stuff HAD been changed prior to the PO letting it sit, I’m thinking the final drive oil might have been a bit neglected.

Want to do some more runs on the old tires just to put it through its paces and see if it holds up. Guess I should stay off the highway/not go above 60 or so? Or if it’s a straight shot for like one exit’s worth with good roads and good weather…would it be crazy to do that on 10 year old battle axes?
 

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heated grips or heated gloves,,, I prefer the battery powered heated gloves, gloves break the feedback loop between you hand skin and what ever skin you are touching, and of course heat, so if you take em inna bedroom like I have heard some people do......
 

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The CVT system is noisy. It will squeek when you change from Auto to Manual modes and is normal.

The charging system is about 550 watts and the bike uses maybe 300, 110 watts Low and 130 watts High just for the headlights. All that wattage goes thru the Ignition switch, a pi$$ poor design. So if you add heated grips, Oxford Sport works well, wire them to the battery. It can be a bear to fish the wires down but can be done. The stereo should be wired thru a power relay setup and fed off the battery too. Again, I am 800+ miles away or I'd ride over and help wire things up.

Tires. Tires. Tires. Some members like Shinkos, some do not:
1. They are inexpensive.

2. They are Bias Ply, not radials. It is recommended not to mix Radials and Bias ply.

3. They may not last as long, but see #1 above.

4. They have a bit faster curve from tire center to the sidewall and it gives a faster drop into corners. Some members, like me, like it.

I only run a Shinko on the front. On the rear I run a Car Tire. Running a Car Tire is NOT for all as there are trade offs and some safety issues. Some have joined the 'Darkside' just to be in the KOOL CLUB only to go back to motorcycle tires. Going Darkside is a decision that needs a lot of research and personal risk assessment. I am not, nor have I ever recommended anyone to do it.

I mount my own tires and save even more $$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
The CVT system is noisy. It will squeek when you change from Auto to Manual modes and is normal.

The charging system is about 550 watts and the bike uses maybe 300, 110 watts Low and 130 watts High just for the headlights. All that wattage goes thru the Ignition switch, a pi$$ poor design. So if you add heated grips, Oxford Sport works well, wire them to the battery. It can be a bear to fish the wires down but can be done. The stereo should be wired thru a power relay setup and fed off the battery too. Again, I am 800+ miles away or I'd ride over and help wire things up.

Tires. Tires. Tires. Some members like Shinkos, some do not:
1. They are inexpensive.

2. They are Bias Ply, not radials. It is recommended not to mix Radials and Bias ply.

3. They may not last as long, but see #1 above.

4. They have a bit faster curve from tire center to the sidewall and it gives a faster drop into corners. Some members, like me, like it.

I only run a Shinko on the front. On the rear I run a Car Tire. Running a Car Tire is NOT for all as there are trade offs and some safety issues. Some have joined the 'Darkside' just to be in the KOOL CLUB only to go back to motorcycle tires. Going Darkside is a decision that needs a lot of research and personal risk assessment. I am not, nor have I ever recommended anyone to do it.

I mount my own tires and save even more $$.
Thanks, Dave. There's a squeaking even when not changing, and then a more noticeable version of the same squeak when i change auto to manual or btw manual gears. It sort of sounds like the belt is being slowed for a moment before things "catch up"—sort of like when a big guy like me is running on a cheap treadmill, each footfall catches the treadmill for a split second. Dunno if that makes sense. But again, I'll ride it more and hope it's either nothing or goes away.

Tires themselves: I'm working off of the easy to find service manual with a 2002 copyright, so not sure to what extent it applies to my 2005, but it lists the tires as:
Front: 120/70R15M/C 56H
Rear: 160/60R14M/C 65H

If that's correct, would I get this (the one labeled 120/70-15)? https://smile.amazon.com/Shinko-SR567-Front-Tire-70-16/dp/B0032FU5T6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2ZJE6CE6D57RH&keywords=shinko+sr567&qid=1668199119&sprefix=shinko+sr567,aps,367&sr=8-2&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1

And for rear: (labeld 160/60-14): https://smile.amazon.com/Shinko-SR568-Rear-Tire-60-15/dp/B0032KUTAG/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1OI2FTAFPWTQN&keywords=shinko+sr568&qid=1668199282&sprefix=shinko+sr568,aps,122&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1

I also am leaning toward doing my own tire work. Sounds like a home setup involves a few items from Harbor Freight, yeah? Would I get these two items or recommend something else?
Tire changing tool: Manual Tire Changer
Tire balancer: Motorcycle Wheel Balancing Stand

How does home balancing work? I have to actually put something on the wheel to do the balancing right, so do I need like a set of weights?

Thank you!!!

PS: I'm definitely considering Dark Side but would probably put that off until the next tire change so I can get used to in a more stock/extra safe condition.
 

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For the Harborfreight tire changer there may be a additional Motorcycle part.

For the wheel balance, yes you will need an assortment of 'Peel and Stick' weights or 'Mag wheel' hammer on weights. Amazon or Ebay.
When the tire settles, you put a small weight at the top and spin it again, add weight and spin again. You may never get it 100%.
I use a 1/4 inch wide strip of Blue masking tape to temporary fix the weights and then when two or three weights are close to each other I put 1 weight that equals the sum of the two in the middle.

A lot of members have put a 150/70 14 on the rear. It is a bit taller and will help correct the speedo error some. Might be a buck or more cheaper too.
 

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Sorry just a slight digression From this excellent thread.
Can someone explain the law on riding that Big Burger on the road road in the States ?
If I had a neighbour give me that scooter over here , to take it out on the road (even for a test ride) I would obviously need to do all the things that the OP has done to get it running + put insurance on it then take it for a Ministry Of Transport test ( MOT ) a stringent certificate of road worthiness. That would be the only time I could ride it on the road ie: back and from the test or to a place to get it fixed so that it can pass then I believe this is only after it has failed the test. Once it has passed I would also then have to put road taxation on it too then the freedom of the road is mine.
 

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Sorry just a slight digression From this excellent thread.
Can someone explain the law on riding that Big Burger on the road road in the States ?
If I had a neighbour give me that scooter over here , to take it out on the road (even for a test ride) I would obviously need to do all the things that the OP has done to get it running + put insurance on it then take it for a Ministry Of Transport test ( MOT ) a stringent certificate of road worthiness. That would be the only time I could ride it on the road ie: back and from the test or to a place to get it fixed so that it can pass then I believe this is only after it has failed the test. Once it has passed I would also then have to put road taxation on it too then the freedom of the road is mine.
Here in Florida we used to have an inspection, also in N.C when I was stationed there, the inspections were done away with because of political financial reasons, so now we just let people die and scatter parts of vehicles all over the road:mad:
 
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Here in Florida we used to have an inspection, also in N.C when I was stationed there, the inspections were done away with because of political financial reasons, so now we just let people die and scatter parts of vehicles all over the road:mad:
We still have to get and pass an annual inspection to get our tags here in Texas.
 
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