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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Thanks guys! Agreed that there doesn’t seem to be enough lip to use anything else, unfortunately, so yeah, might be drilling it out. Here’s a thought: what if I remove the whole front of the case—yeah, it won’t really come off, but maybe I could at least rotate/rock it some at that point and loosen it up enough?

in other news:

 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
Looks like the wrong size was used previously, or a metric. You may be able to use a Dremel tool and cut a straight slot for one time removal. I would order new drain/fill plugs first, then take your time making your straight slot, careful not to go too deep. Does not appear to have enough room to use a Vice grip or get a bite on it. You may have luck with an old boogered up straight slot (not your favorite) tapping with a hammer to start it. Spray those threads with the Kroil before starting. Take your time, walk away if you become frustrated.
You WILL get this and get this bike running, then your satisfaction will be even more valuable.
wait, is it not 8mm?
If the penetrant soak does not work, try a trick I used in the pass, at approx. 9 o'clock, approx. 1/16in(1mm) from outer edge, drill a small shallow diameter hole, more like a slight indentation, just enough to catch the point of a "sharp" center punch, kinda hold punch up and at 45-60 degrees and then loosen in by tapping down counterclockwise. Tap the other way to reinstall/tighten.

SemBurg cutting a slot is a good idea, it's possible,
just more unnerving so close to cover, is a good solution to reuse/save same plugs. (y)
Will try. Is this a “bigger is better” situation re: size of punch? This is the only I have atm kinda small 😁
Gesture Finger Thumb Nail Wrist
 

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Just FYI, 8mm and 5/16 inch are about the same.

If I were not 830 miles Northwest of you and was not down with Covid currently I'd ride over and give a hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Thoughts on which valve stems to use?

Also, how’s the transmission sound? I don’t love it tbh. It makes an extra squeak when I switch to manual or to power, too. Think I’ll flush out the new transmission oil too, since the old stuff wasn’t pretty, just to pamper it.

Oh wait I guess that’s the final drive area, not transmission. Hmm. I’m much less familiar with final drives. Not sure if a noise like this would warrant further investigation or not. Either way, as soon as the tires are fixed I’m taking this thing out!
 

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Oh wait I guess that’s the final drive area
KIM, there's over 1/2 dozen noisy straight cut gears and twice as many bearings just in the final drive, lots of moving parts inside the LH swingarm/final drive case, not to say other noisy components in the engine, etc. that's the reason they use foam padding to block/dampen noise in several areas. if your panels, etc., are off is worst. IAC running/drving bike may loosen things up :unsure: Rusty rotors or stuck brakes are also suspect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Thanks Dave and Mikey. Good call on the panels being off, and yeah, just read another few threads on here about the "straight cut gears" making noise. I should ride it and knock the rust off before being too worried, I suppose.

Need to replace both final drive bolts—do y'all have preferred sites for parts or just google around each time you need something? Looks like the part for these is 09248-18004, available e.g. here: Suzuki 09248-18004 - PLUG | Partzilla.com

Still need to check the CVT filter.

Also need to get a valve stem for the back tire. Read a few threads about them but am planning to try to get one locally today b/c I am impatient ;)

Also ordered some cerakote per the suggestion on this thread.
 

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Right angle at about 80 degrees work best but will be listed as 90 Degree most times. You can see the angles.

You need 11.3MM rim hole stems. Lots of colors and selections on Ebay or other web sales like KurvyGirl.com so shop around as price for almost the same items can vary.
 
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correct rubber valve stems available at auto zone partzilla ok ,, cycle parts nation gets my dog walking award
 

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It should look the same all the way around and the outside thingy doesn't touch the rubber.
Yours does look the same,,,, naasty! :p
 
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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
It should look the same all the way around and the outside thingy doesn't touch the rubber.
Yours does look the same,,,, naasty! :p
Lol Mikey.

man, I hate motorcycle shops so much. I’m here right now and first he doesn’t acknowledge that I called like 15 minute ago, then literally doesn’t look at me and tells me to scan a QR code so I can agree to their services. I make small talk and he doesn’t respond. I show him the grease inside the wheel asking if he thinks it looks fresh and he says it depends, again without looking.

there’s a reason I haven’t been back in like 6 years, bud.

anyway, he finally takes a look and says “we can put a valve stem in but you know these tires are trash, right?”—ok, good point, I had indeed looked for a year or year code but didn’t see one. He says they are from 2012, eek! I told him to go ahead since I needed to see if this thing actually can ride before I buy new tires. In lobby now.

fyi, here was the hub of the wheel and the frame once I got them off—am I crazy or does that grease look new, as do the bearings? Plus those tires are pretty much unworn, so I wonder if he really had them on there since 2012….
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread Tire Wheel

Wheel White Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part
 

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Grease does not look aged when in a closed system. Takes exposure to air and moisture.
But he could have had the bearings replaced before its 'Rumpelstiltskin" act.

Again, 10 year old tires, go slow grasshopper.
Could be fine to go 100 MPH or blow out at 15 MPH.

Did they ever tell you why it got parked?
 

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For ease of airing that is why most go to the solid alumimn angled valve stems.
 
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