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Beware. From the Silverwing site. An owner had his engine size up. During inspecting by shop the Fram oil filter was found to be imploded and blocked oil from the engine. :cry:
 

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Suzuki say OEM filter good for use 3 oil change, owner manual say change oil every 6000 kms / 3700 mile keep same oil filter 3 change if want to, prefer use new Emgo 10-55660 with all fresh oil change instead of keep use OEM filter 3 time. Emgo company make many filtre for OEM, this filter very very close to Suzuki OEM filter, much less expense and you change with new oil.


http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html





$3.94 Emgo 10-55660 - Black

http://oemcycle.com/Item/product/900076284/


$4.00 Emgo 10-55660 - Black

http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/Sea ... Search.y=0


$4.27 Emgo 10-55660 - Black

http://www.powersportparts.net/Emgo-Oil ... 145515.htm


$4.57 Emgo 10-55660 - Black

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products ... oil-filter


$5.55 Emgo 10-55660 - Black

http://www.powersportsplace.com/search/ ... 2010-55660


$5.95 Emgo 10-55660 - Black

http://www.dollarrider.com/detail.cfm?C ... onJunction
 

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I bought a bunch of the Emgos (I think) on Ebay a while back. I change the filter on every oil change. I figure it's pretty cheap insurance.
 

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Keep in mind that as a filter loads up it filters better. The only flow requirement is that it pass oil with sufficient pressure to push it through the system.

Suzuki's engineers are most likely aware of that, and it was equally likely a consideration in their 11k (3 oil changes) replacement recommendation. Changing it more often than recommended may not be a good thing.

Must piss the dealerships off, as they could easily charge $25 to $35 or more for changing it...

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I change the oil in our vehicles every 2500 miles/six months, and change the filter every other change--been doing this for a long time, and we run our cars to at least 250k with 365k (my old '86 Corolla) being the standing record.
 

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My Suzuki dealer only charges $6.99 USD for an OEM filter, no big deal. I buy several. On other forums Fram is referred to as the orange turd. Been junk for years, in my learned opinion.
 

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TwoWheelTim said:
My Suzuki dealer only charges $6.99 USD for an OEM filter, no big deal. I buy several. On other forums Fram is referred to as the orange turd. Been junk for years, in my learned opinion.
That bargain price for Suzuki filter, here Suzuki OEM filter sell $13.95 + tax

If could get OEM filter for $6.95 would not purchase elsewere also. This first time BUSA member say pay so little money ($6.95) for Suzuki filter.
 

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I have seen that article previously and got as far as this,

"Through a friendship formed over several years with Jay Buckley, Technical Manager and Trainer for Autolite, a sister company to Fram, I was one of ten “journalists” (their word, not mine) invited to tour Fram’s Research and Development facilities in Dayton Ohio." (emphasis added)

before just skimming through the rest--it is not an entirely unbiased article.

Here's what I (with no horse in the race) found some years ago, dissecting a Fram Tough Guard and other brands...
 

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I've used all sorts of filter/oil combos on past bikes to see if I could notice ANYTHING at all. The only change was cost. Shifting and performance seemed unaffected. So why not give Fram a fair shake too?

I've been running PH6018 filters on the Burg since I purchased it, along with Motomaster oil. The dire predictions have not come to pass.

Modern corporations tend to have PR departments and they use them to market their products. I suspect other brands do the same.
 

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Flywheel said:
I've used all sorts of filter/oil combos on past bikes to see if I could notice ANYTHING at all. The only change was cost. Shifting and performance seemed unaffected. So why not give Fram a fair shake too?

I've been running PH6018 filters on the Burg since I purchased it, along with Motomaster oil. The dire predictions have not come to pass.

Modern corporations tend to have PR departments and they use them to market their products. I suspect other brands do the same.
It would appear you did not read this--it is why I will not use them. On my Miatas, all three, the Fram filters reduced oil gallery pressure by 10 to 20 psi. I first used their "standard" filter and later tried and dissected the "Tough Guard". They are cheaply produced crap, and other than K&N I know of no other filter manufacturer that goes to such great extents to dispel the "myth" of their inferiority...
 

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I've used Fram filters on and off on cars, trucks, motorcycles, lawn mowers and tractors since I got my first car in 1962. I've yet to have a problem with them. They are not my first choice but I don't consider them a disaster.

I wonder if we are a little over-concerned with oil filters. My Dad and millions of other people drove VW bugs millions of miles. They didn't have oil filters and only held 2.5 quarts of oil. I had an old John Deere 112 Lawn and Garden tractor with a Kohler engine that lasted 30+ years without an oil filter. I know many people, including me that have used aluminum block Briggs & Stratton engines for 20+ years without a filter. I think regular oil changes may be more important than which filter is used.
 

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Good luck and by all means use what you like, and have had success with. Others and myself are only pointing out what we have seen and experienced. But if you tear apart the filters you will see a difference in workmanship. Crushed media, strings, cardboard end caps, inferior anti drain back valves, poor construction. I personally would rather run an empty can than a F**M. I switched in 1990 when I saw the light and have never looked back.

Quality filters are not expensive, they just have to be found.

Cheers to all.
 

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Not quite sure what an "imploded" oil filter is or looks like.



Toolie said:
Beware. From the Silverwing site. An owner had his engine size up. During inspecting by shop the Fram oil filter was found to be imploded and blocked oil from the engine. :cry:
 

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Before FRAM and many other companies went OFFSHORE (China) for manufacturing their filters, they were made in America. While here, the companies DID manage to keep their quality in check. BUT as we have said, there IS a reason a "FRAM" or other brand name filter is sitting on a Wal Mart shelf for $4.98. Common sense screams out the answer.

You will never EVER go wrong with a Suzuki OEM FILTER. NEVER. I have used them and I like them, but not so much the price. But hey you get what you pay for in most instances. NAPA and WIX are easy finds as well. K&N is an easy find, at least for me, Autozone carried them.

As for the use of an oil filter, there is NO way anybody can successfully 'argue' the absence of an oil filter is GOOD for an engine. It simply is not. The MOMENT you start using the oil for lubrication, when the engine is cold, the blowby gases and extra fuel will contaminate the oil. This is about as simple as I can get it: "engine combustion and pollutants from the atmosphere and from various other sources such as engine additives produce soot, dust and mineral particles that can abrade and damage engine parts. If these particles are not removed, the engine will eventually fail. Removing abrasive particles from motor oil is the purpose of an oil filter."

Early automobile engines did not use oil filters. For this reason, along with the generally low quality of oil available, very frequent oil changes were required. The forerunner to oil filtration was mesh and screen strainers. Same with VW Beetles...they require FREQUENT oil changes if you have not modded your bug to accept an oil filter.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/681/oil-filter





Read more: What Is the Purpose of an Oil Filter? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/about_6393478_purpo ... z2HFZLgo1k


TwoWheelTim said:
Good luck and by all means use what you like, and have had success with. Others and myself are only pointing out what we have seen and experienced. But if you tear apart the filters you will see a difference in workmanship. Crushed media, strings, cardboard end caps, inferior anti drain back valves, poor construction. I personally would rather run an empty can than a F**M. I switched in 1990 when I saw the light and have never looked back.

Quality filters are not expensive, they just have to be found.

Cheers to all.
 

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Wow! I never knew my Burgy was at risk! :roll:
 

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QuantumRift said:
Early automobile engines did not use oil filters. For this reason, along with the generally low quality of oil available, very frequent oil changes were required. The forerunner to oil filtration was mesh and screen strainers. Same with VW Beetles...they require FREQUENT oil changes if you have not modded your bug to accept an oil filter.
They also had HUGE clearances and required straight 30 or 50 weight oil. All modern engines are machined with much closer tolarences and require 5W30 to 0W20 oils.

I remember a local shop that would pop a VW engine out, refresh the bearings and pop it back in place in less than 4 hours. They did so many of them. Just ask any Bug owner that has more than 30,000 miles if you can check the crank end play, grab the crank fan belt pulley, pull back then push forward. IF it moves more than 1/16 of an inch its toast.

All the early GM engines had just a strainer. The engines were lucky to last 90,000 miles. About 18 years ago I sold my moms 64 Studebaker Convertible V8 Daytona that had over 375,000 miles on it and the engine had never been apart except for head gaskets at 250K as they were seeping coolant all over. Mom ran Puralator filters and 15W40 oil as the oil changes were free to the original owner, dealer option was honored even after Studebaker went out of business. DOXON Toyota of Auburn is still in business. They were the dealer she bought a few cars from. Her's was a Goldenrod color but looked like this: [attachment=0:1fkmhneh]mzm64con.jpg[/attachment:1fkmhneh]
 

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Don't ya just love an Oil Filter Argument??? Lots of chest pounding, all most like our old DARKSI...... :twisted:
 
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