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One thing that I encountered that I should mention:

As noted in Allwalk's instructions, the fork cap is under spring pressure. When you release it it wants to pop up. I knew this in advance, so I had the lower end of the fork on the ground and put downward pressure on the cap with the 17mm allen wrench as I removed it. However, it still 'popped' a little as it finally released; I didn't have enough pressure on it at the end. The cap is aluminum, and the fork tube is steel. When the cap popped, a small amount of the tips of the last few threads of the aluminum cap got sheared off, so there were some metal shavings in the top of the fork.

So the moral of the story is: keep CONTINUOUS downward pressure on the cap until you know for sure it's completely released. Hard to do. Even when I knew to pay more attention on the second fork, there were still a few bits of aluminum there.

The amount of the threads that were removed was minimal, so I'm not worried about the cap. I just didn't like the metal shavings going down into the fork. This may be one argument for pulling the fork completely, rather than using a vacuum pump to suck the oil out. Dumping the oil out would remove the shavings.
 

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I know this thread is over a decade old... but I'll throw my experience in...

I did my forks today. 14 years, 29,000 miles.

The sludge that poured out looked like my Jeep differential oil, when it gets contaminated with water and mud. It had the color and consistency of light motor oil mixed with 1/4 pound of graphite power. Gray and smelled horrible.

I did the ATF rinse. I didn't that the forks all the way down. Didn't removed the dampener or replace the seals.

New 10weight is in there now.


I have the wheels pulled, going to the shop for new tires. When I get it all back together I'll report on whether I can feel any ride difference. It might not be a great test, though, with new tires at the same time. Whatever subjective difference I might feel might go along with the tires, and not the forks.
 
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