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Discussion Starter #1
I dismantled a fork leg as the first step in my intention to renew the oil in both legs but was unable to undo the bottom 'cylinder bolt'. The manual suggests temporarily refitting the spring, washer, spacer & cap to facilitate bolt removal. But how to compress the spring sufficiently to engage the fork cap thread was beyond me! (at 78 I don't have the strength I used to have!)...had to resort to having the dealer's mechanic do the job in both legs for me (60km round trip in the car). Neither the manual nor LeDude explains how to do this. Is there a 'special tool'?.....Can someone please divulge the secret, otherwise the fork oil will probably never be changed again! BTW the fork cap appears to have an adjustment facility not mentioned in the workshop manual or owners manual.
 

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If your just doing fluid you shouldn't have to remove that bottom Allen bolt. I bought a socket but it wasn't long enough so I bought a wrench and cut it to length, hammered out the bit and in the one I cut. You need a air/electric impact gun beacuse they used Loctite on the threads. I used this bit, an adapter and my 1/2" air impact.

 

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No special tool that I know of to put the cap back on. How I got mine back on was to place the cap in the palm of my hand and use my body weight to press it down. After making sure I had it square so it wouldn't cross thread I just rotated my hand to start it into the threads.
 

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I just added a new DIY on how to do the fork oil change which shows how to remove and install the fork cap.

DIY- Fork Oil Maintenance




You actually don't need to exert a lot of force to install the fork caps, it more a question of alignment and downward force.
The way I did mine, was to secure the fork in my work bench, place the fork cap on the spacer and then gently push down to align the
fork threads with the fork cap threads.
While pushing down on the fork cap from the top and holding the fork tube with one hand, twist and thread the cap into place.
Once it starts to thread, keep going until the fork oil o-ring is fully seated.

A 17 mm hex socket / key is a must for the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Many thanks for your comments guys, and 'specially LeDude for ALL his excellent descriptions and photographs - I must learn how to take pix of that quality! Job now done, thankfully, cheers, Shavian, Auckland, NZ :thumbup:
 
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