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Discussion Starter #1
Guys - I'm emailing with HealTech, but I'm not getting a straight answer. I'm a mechanical engineer. I'm no genius, I'm not arrogant enough to even think I'm all that smart. I'm smart enough to know there are much smarter dudes out there. I'm plenty capable with hardware design, fabrication and creating and understanding mechanical concepts. However, "lectrical" is not my expertise. I actually stink at it. Electrons seem to always do the opposite of what I think they're going to do. But the person I'm emailing with kind of seems to be worse than me at "lectrical." Not saying he or she is dumb, but I'm just not getting what I want from that person.

That said, what I'm emailing with HealTech about is the wiring / bypassing of the original V.S.S. signal to the ECU so the CVT will operate as originally developed. Mmmmmkay?

I think there is a much simpler way to do it. No need to tear into the bike. No need to cut the bike's original wiring. The modification to be done to the SpeedoHealer alone.

For those guys who have done this mod, and for those guys who understand electrical wiring … is my shortcut on the 2nd page below correct? Open the attachment to see these sketches more closely.

90750

90751

7milesout
 

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Not knowing what each of the wires does makes this response less certain than it might be...

Your solution would appear to be equivalent to the original.
Your solution guarantees you will not be able to return the device should you somehow not get it to do what you want.
I'm surprised they do not offer this (or this capability) right out of the box since it would seem highly desirable to not mess with your existing wiring if you do not have to.

This last statement above is the only thing that give me pause.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I didn't think about the return-ability. However, these have been used enough, I think it's obvious it will work. To get a defective one would be a problem, but should be a very small chance of that.

However, their own tech's recommendation mentions to cut into and tap the white wire. That in itself should void the warranty. Hmmmmm...
 

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ErikDK has not been on for over 2 months. He would know the answer. You could try searching his posts but there are 2900 of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Go peck him on the shoulder. I don't know him. But wires are getting cut tonight! I hope I don't screw it up. Electrons and I are not friendly.
 

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Go peck him on the shoulder. I don't know him. But wires are getting cut tonight! I hope I don't screw it up. Electrons and I are not friendly.
Erik DK is in the Copenhagen Denmark area, 17 hour flight there, Covid19 not allowed. ;)

Maybe remove the spade connectors from the plugs and then put them together under heat shrink. I'd need to see the plug to see if you can remove the pins but most can be.

Can you show a picture of the connectors?
 

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Based on your response I'd say go for it.
If it were me, I'd do it in a minute, just in a way that I could recover if I was wrong. So be sure to keep enough wire visible so if you have to you can undo your mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dave - I think I follow what you're saying. And I'm thinking about that too. However, HealTech did tell me that the white wire and the original V.S.S. must go into the SpeedoHealer unit, or the SH would not work. So the white wire needs to remain. In my pdf, the white wire is actually light blue … because if I made it white, it would be invisible on the white background of the page. The white wire is going to have to have the insulator removed, the blue wire will have it's conductor wrapped around the white wire's conductor and soldered. Then the white wire signal continues to go into the SH, but also branches off and jumpers to the green wire, which in turn feeds the original signal to the pink wire and into the ECU. So, the CVT should work as normal.

But the green wire, maybe the terminal can be backed out of the SH, and then mated to a terminal on the "blue" wire I attach to the white wire. I'll check that.


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Discussion Starter #10
I did this mod to the wiring as I showed. The location of the green and white wire is not where I showed it but that shouldn't matter.

I got the bike all back together and rode it, and the SH does to appear to doing what it is supposed to. The CVT works the same, but the speedometer is still way high. I put the SH in test mode and it seems to pass the test.

However it states in test mlde, "the speedo" should read a number other than zero. Well, I don't know if they mean the SH or the bike's speedometer. The bike's speedometer reads zero because the bike is not moving. And the SH is blank. The t does flash when I spin the rear tire. So I'm at a loss for what is going wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Boy, when I read back on my posts (like the last one), even I can't understand what the heck I mean. :D

The SH is NOT working. At least it is not changing the speed reading, nor is it changing the CVT dynamics. So, I got to thinking about what would cause it to do what it is doing. Based on my thinking, I have changed my wire harness sketch (see below). My assumption was that the V.S.S. signal was provided to the CVT via the pink wire, and provided to the ECM through one of the two remaining wires of the SH harness.

But evidently, the other 2 wires, being black and red are power and ground. And the bike's pink wire must split off somewhere along the bike's w/h and provides the signal to the speedometer and CVT separately. I have asked for clarification with HealTech, and will let you all know. But this must be the case, some of you may know this already. The HealTech "tech" just hasn't explained "why" what I wanted to do wouldn't work. But at least he/she told me that it wouldn't work, which is more than a lot of companies reps would do. I'm just the kind of person who wants to understand the "why." And I'm too big of an ass just to do what I'm told unless I know why.

So, looks like I'm going to have to eat crow, and go back and do it their way. Not a big deal in this case … I was just thinking it would be nice to not have to cut into the factory wiring. Oh well. Electrons win again. And I did such a nice job on the soldering...


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Discussion Starter #12
I went back and did it the way HealTech said. It does work now. My final adjustment is -8.4 Now onto resolving the driver's backrest.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just following up, mainly in case someone runs upon this thread in the future. I did my trip to my dad's house this weekend (~140 miles each way). The Burgman did an admiral job. It carried my duffel back with clothes and utilities in the top box, and carried my backpack with laptop under the seat. And I sat comfortably on the seat. I can't do that on my Honda Rebel. Wind noise remains atrocious, I haven't received the Clearview as yet.

Anywho - On the way up there, holding it as close to 72 mph as I could (see the Fuel Range per Bar thread), I did a trip meter to actual miles measurement. I logged a 95.0 mile leg of the trip, and noted my trip meter measure. 95.0 miles was measured at 89.5 miles. So, to get my accurate fuel mileage, I'll have to multiply my trip meter times 1.06145. 89.5 x 1.06145 = 95.0

I also noted that I was seeing a slight difference of the speedometer to the GPS. So I adjusted the Speed Healer to -08.5 (-8.5%), and now the GPS speed and speedometer are in sync across the board. I'll have to do another 95.0 mile leg comparison (next time I go up there), but I doubt it will be much different.

I love having an accurate speedometer! Multiplying a trip meter 1 time at the end of a trip is no big deal, much preferred to having to do algebra the whole time I'm riding!


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As you do corrections to the MPH then the fake elevated ODO miles will go out and you will get better false MPG.

What was your uncorrected false MPG before? And the math Corrected MPG before?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I sort of think you're pulling my leg hairs with these questions. But in case not, I'll say that I considered this. But kind of figured since the previous odometer numbers were in error (but less error than now), I'd just leave it alone. But I think (not sure I want to put any real effort to it), that the error back the other way could be estimated & calculated. I'll put a minute's worth of effort to it.

In my thinking, the speedometer was 8.5% too high before. After correcting that, my odometer is now roughly 5.8895% too low. I think that means that the odometer was 2.61% too high before.

To answer your questions: uncorrected before - 51.2 mpg, corrected before (as best I can reason) - 49.9 mpg.
 

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I have always figured my true MPG. With the ODO over reporting the gas mileage is always higher than true. When I put my taller Darkside Car tire on, my gas mileage went down due to not traveling the same over reported miles. Its when I did true miles divided by gallons used, my mileage went down.

The trip to visit my father was 258 miles using a 160/60 HR 14 BattleAx motorcycle tire. The same trip using a 165/65 14 Potenza Car tire was 250 Miles. Same place. I used 9.5 gallons round trip.
The Motorcycle tire gave me 54.32 MPG
The Car tire gave me 52.63 MPG. A loss of 1.69 MPG..... on paper. The bike still used 9.5 gallons to do the same work.

Oh, and just for record, the true miles round by GPS and the state mile markers was 250.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Very interesting stuff Dave. I'm thinking (maybe should have thought about this some more), that once I wear out this BattleAx, I may journey over to the dark side. For one, it sounds interesting to ride on a "square" tire. Secondly, I like the thought of the speedo and odo being more accurate, on their own. And lastly, if I get this bike "comfortable" (get a backrest, and if the barn door of a windshield is quiet enough), then I'm likely to start piling on the miles, and I'd rather not replace tires frequently. I think … for me, a "square" tire will be fine. I was about to say I don't run it too hard in the corners … but the other day, I want to say I scraped something. It didn't sound so much like a scrape, as it did kind of like a few light bangs when I was leaned fairly far over. Maybe it was pushing the kickstand farther up, dunno. Not to change the subject, but I wonder how a square tire is going to perform under those circumstances...
 

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Very interesting stuff Dave. I'm thinking (maybe should have thought about this some more), that once I wear out this BattleAx, I may journey over to the dark side. For one, it sounds interesting to ride on a "square" tire. Secondly, I like the thought of the speedo and odo being more accurate, on their own. And lastly, if I get this bike "comfortable" (get a backrest, and if the barn door of a windshield is quiet enough), then I'm likely to start piling on the miles, and I'd rather not replace tires frequently. I think … for me, a "square" tire will be fine. I was about to say I don't run it too hard in the corners … but the other day, I want to say I scraped something. It didn't sound so much like a scrape, as it did kind of like a few light bangs when I was leaned fairly far over. Maybe it was pushing the kickstand farther up, dunno. Not to change the subject, but I wonder how a square tire is going to perform under those circumstances...
The Darkside debate will draw opinions on both sides. While I will not recommend anyone doing it, for those that have, they have logged millions of miles out there.

You would not notice the squarish tread after a few rides.
Scraping something.... Yep I still do that sometimes. The first thing that scrapes can be two things depending on speed and bikes attitude (down hill). If on flat ground in a flat corner the Center stand will drag. It has a rubber bumper so it does go up a bit on impact.... to a point then it will lever the back tire off the ground. Darksiding has not changed that for me. When going down hill in the corners the Tupperware up front will hit first.

I think that going from a 160/60 14 MT to a 165/65 14 CT the gas mileage did not change partly due to going 5mm wider and more tread on the ground all the time. Going from 60% to a 65% should have changed the gear ratio and improved gas mileage some.

For a few tire changes I went from a BattleAx 160/60 14 to a Michlen Gold Standard MT 150/70 14 and that did change the true mile gas mileage figures but again the ODO was under reporting some too. When I went to a 155/65 14 CT the mileage again went up a slight amount.
 

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Very interesting stuff Dave. I'm thinking (maybe should have thought about this some more), that once I wear out this BattleAx, I may journey over to the dark side. For one, it sounds interesting to ride on a "square" tire. Secondly, I like the thought of the speedo and odo being more accurate, on their own. And lastly, if I get this bike "comfortable" (get a backrest, and if the barn door of a windshield is quiet enough), then I'm likely to start piling on the miles, and I'd rather not replace tires frequently. I think … for me, a "square" tire will be fine. I was about to say I don't run it too hard in the corners … but the other day, I want to say I scraped something. It didn't sound so much like a scrape, as it did kind of like a few light bangs when I was leaned fairly far over. Maybe it was pushing the kickstand farther up, dunno. Not to change the subject, but I wonder how a square tire is going to perform under those circumstances...
Some thumbnails for you to click on, per what @Dave_J was talking about. Of course, YMMV, depending on shock settings, rider weight, uphill or down, leaning off or not, etc.:

1) '07 Exec, 2010, lower-right-side scrape (highway on-ramp, no loss of control but loud grinding:

2010-07-12-11-54-59.jpg

2) '07 Exec, formerly square centerstand feet, a couple pics from 2010:

2010-08-02-12-02-49.jpg 2010-08-02-12-03-17.jpg

3) '08 Exec, formerly square centerstand feet, a couple pics from 2016:

2016-09-04_20-39-27.JPG 2016-09-04_20-39-33.JPG

4) Big crunch sound of left centerstand foot, slight bike movement, at 1:26 into this video ('08 Exec, 2017):

 
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