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Discussion Starter #1
OK there are two related subjects to the title. First I did my first work on my Burg{other than adjusting the mirrors}. The idle speed was too low so I adjusted it to where it is suppose to be, 1400 RPM.

I take off the panel under the seat and there it is. Adjust the speed and done. Then I drop one of the screws putting the panel back in and it gets stuck.:(
I look and feel around but can't find it so I start pulling other panels. First I took the hump panel off but still can't find the screw. Next I pulled off the side rocker panel. Those plastic rivets don't always come off that easily, I busted the edge of one and another one was destroyed. But I noticed something, several were missing!

This takes me to the second part, that the dealer here sucks at servicing bikes! I already knew they charged through the nose but now I know they are inept at it too. So as I said there were several of the plastic rivets missing and I found busted parts of one or two after I took that panel off. I also found a loose washer. Turns out the washer goes to the seat hydraulic arm, they must have dropped it and replaced it with another. However the one they used was too thick! Which explains why my seat sometimes clicked when I opened it, works like a champ now!

I don't blame them for busting some rivets since I did too but they should have replaced them. If they didn't have them in stock they should have ordered them and given them to the PO when they came in{I asked him and they said nothing about them!}. They supposedly did the 600 mile service which is likely when they busted the rivets and lost that washer but they did not set the idle speed! I would not trust them to screw on a tire valve cap let alone anything more serious.

BTW is there a trick to getting those rivets off with style and grace?
 

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Uh, just out of curiosity... Is there anything you like about the burg? Seat height, mirrors, seating position, handle bars, body pop rivets, idle speed, dealer (did i miss anything) all seem to be wrong for you. I know there's an adjustment period for any new bike, but you seem to be having a very difficult time of it.

Sorry for your frustration.
 

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Push-rivets...
push in on the center pin with a Phillips screwdriver,
then get fingernails under the collar & pull out.
To install, push the center pin up so that
it sticks out about 1/8 inch....feel the locking fingers
for the 'low' spot, & install rivet , & push the center pin
flush with the collar to lock it in place.
 

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Working with this bike does require diligent patience.. few extra parts such as body panel fastners etc. Lots of asian cars are now using them, Hondas etc, they are a reusable fastner. I would defiantly purchase a spare bag of those and a good supply of metric nuts and bolts and thread lock.
I wouldn't tear a bike down to find one plastic faster.

Different style of flexible grab tool/ magnets and mirror are almost a must anymore along with extended wrenches. Snap on loves me, but I don't love him until I need him and he still visits every week! Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Uh, just out of curiosity... Is there anything you like about the burg?
For sure! Overall I like it. Love the extra power and it handles very nicely.

There are things I don't like but they are things that just need tweaking. Sorry if I seem like a complainer. There are always things about a vehicle that one needs to adjust or change to make it just right. I am still finding what those things are.

As for the dealer - well to do the service and not get it right is just wrong and to break parts and not repair/replace in inexcusable! They will be hearing from me!


Push-rivets...
push in on the center pin with a Phillips screwdriver,
then get fingernails under the collar & pull out.
I tried that and I bent back a fingernail. So I tried using a flat screw driver and that worked better but one rivet chipped off one side before I got it out and another one wouldn't budge, I had to destroy it to get it out. Several others now have bent or cracked edges. They were stuck like glue! and seemed very brittle. I am going to buy some new ones and replace all the old ones as I get to them. Keep in mind my Burg is a 2006 with only 600 miles on it and has never had all the panels off before. Only what the dealer did last month and the ones I pulled today.

Putting the rivets back was easy. On the other hand putting back the rubber steps was a chore until I found you need to lube the rubber pegs with water, then they pop back into place.


Anybody got a cheap source for those rivets?
 

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speedandstyle, the rivets are not normally a problem to get out but Erik's idea of using one of those tools will make it easier. Personally, I just use my nail. That's all it should take. I wonder if the dealer has mixed up some of the rivets. On the 400 there are 2 sizes and it's the same if I remember rightly on the 650. If he did that or even replaced a broken one with the wrong size then it will be difficult to remove.
 

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There is a different rivet. I had some damaged rivets in my Burg and remembering I had bought some spares for my Yamaha ATV years ago, I went to locate them. They are notched for a Phillips head screw driver so to install them, you place them in the hole, make a half turn with the screw driver and they lock in place. To remove them, you just make a half turn backward and they pop up. They were a bit larger than the orginal rivets so I just drilled the holes to fit. A bunch easier.
 

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I'd get them from suzuki if it was me, there are so many different diameter ones out there (been there done that) the push pin that they use is most certainly the best design yet. If you get one that's 1mm off, it will not release correctly when pushing in the center pin, it will bind, causing you to destruct in upon removal.
 

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Speedandstyle go to this website to get you some spare rivets. These are what I use as replacement rivets on my 650 and they work great http://www.boltmotorcyclehardware.com/.

I agree with you in the statement of the local dealerships service department. Lacking is definitely the word here. I used them once and it was once too much. Their Parts Manager on the other hand is really good, I guess its a ying and yang thing!

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Of course, you can buy dedicated tools:
I will do that! Thanks.


I wonder if the dealer has mixed up some of the rivets. If he did that or even replaced a broken one with the wrong size then it will be difficult to remove.
That is a very likely possibility. They may have replaced some of the rivets with slightly bigger ones they had on hand. I did not measure them although they looked the same.

Speedandstyle go to this website to get you some spare rivets. These are what I use as replacement rivets on my 650 and they work great http://www.boltmotorcyclehardware.com/.

I agree with you in the statement of the local dealerships service department. Lacking is definitely the word here. I used them once and it was once too much. Their Parts Manager on the other hand is really good, I guess its a ying and yang thing!

Greg
Thanks for the link

The parts manager might be a good guy but their prices on parts are horrible. I have had them look up several parts for my old Zuma and everytime I could beat their prices by 25-50% online. I stopped even trying.
 

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i keep a stock of the plastic push rivets in hand.
:D
 

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I use the smallest screwdriver in a set to remove the rivets. It is about 3 inches long and the blade is only about 1/8" wide. Flat blade, of course. Works well.
 

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I am lucky I guess. My local Suzuki dealer does okay work but is high priced. I also have a local independent shop here who is cheaper but still does pretty good work. I buy my bikes from the local Suzuki Dealer and service them at the independent shop. Win/win for me now that my medical problems have reached the point to where I can't do the work myself any more. I do miss working on my own bikes, it was cheaper and I always knew the work was done correctly. Me working on the bikes is just not in the cards any more so I do what I have to to keep my bikes running and taken care of. A lot more expensive my last oil change for all three (engine, transmission and rear end) cost me $140. Now this included good synthetic oils (Castrol) and filters and a general check over for the bike but I could have done it myself for a little over $50. Sucks getting old and stiff (with medical problems).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I will give the dealer here a little more credit. They at least replaced the faulty battery that was put in 3 months ago. They tested it and said one or more cells were bad. They gave me a brand new one. So far it is working great. So at least they do stand behind their warranties.
 
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