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2003 Burgman AN400
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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Yes, I pointed it out to OP in different thread before, as a lot of other info/responses from others here :unsure:
IME the bleeding thru bleed screw is essential when servicing coolant :unsure:, yes, the cap and thermostat are more suspect than water pump. :whistle:



Yes, hopefully he did not damage that seal/connection in his attempt to remove water pump, maybe should leave alone and 🤞
I have seen in the service manual the location to bleed the cooling system. BUT, by eyes and brain are not finding it!
Please stand by while my brain recalculates..

zrx212 you mentioned this to me on another thread.
"Bleed screw/bolt is on thermostat housing on LH side of cylinder head, not especially easy to get to :( it faces up and left, has both Hex and Phillips screw head, use whatever tool is easier, loosen until fluid bleeds out, close, refill radiator, run bike some, bleed ... repeat procedure as required."

Thanka zrx212 for consistently coming in for the assist..... You had to point it out a few times.

I finally found it. Followed the procedure to bleed and it still gets hot. So I pulled the thermostat and that temp sensor to test, later in the week.
So I was thinking. Maybe I can run it without the thermostat? Just for troubleshooting purposes? And also to get all the air out? Won't that send the water right through the system?
Y'all tell me that's a bad idea.....:unsure:
....
 

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I have seen in the service manual the location to bleed the cooling system. BUT, by eyes and brain are not finding it!
Please stand by while my brain recalculates..

zrx212 you mentioned this to me on another thread.
"Bleed screw/bolt is on thermostat housing on LH side of cylinder head, not especially easy to get to :( it faces up and left, has both Hex and Phillips screw head, use whatever tool is easier, loosen until fluid bleeds out, close, refill radiator, run bike some, bleed ... repeat procedure as required."

Thanka zrx212 for consistently coming in for the assist..... You had to point it out a few times.

I finally found it. Followed the procedure to bleed and it still gets hot. So I pulled the thermostat and that temp sensor to test, later in the week.
So I was thinking. Maybe I can run it without the thermostat? Just for troubleshooting purposes? And also to get all the air out? Won't that send the water right through the system?
Y'all tell me that's a bad idea.....:unsure:
....
it can be done as a temporary thing, but you will hafta make sure it don't leak without the thermostat in there and that may require some "fixin"
 

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2014 Burgman 400
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The thermostat housing rubber seal is part of the thermostat valve assembly really no way to run without it, you can test thermostat in water and a meat thermometer, suspend in water it should start opening at 180F and be fully open at 200F
(About 1/8 inch). Maybe I missed some of this ordeal, when it overheats, is it overflowing into reservoir tank, have you replaced the radiator cap? suitable one is available at any auto parts*, some auto parts will test caps for free, but they are about $10. Is the fan working, as in coming on before overheating, if not, have you tried jumping wires at fan switch at bottom of radiator, does it run, test switch in water like thermostat, etc., should close at approx. 210F, etc. BTW, the temp sensor on thermostat housing is for indication only, plays no part on cooling system operation.

Just throwing some questions out there. * I used Stant 13psi radiator caps 10227 or 11227 on most bikes without issues here in Florida, less stress on cooling system, OEM 16psi are better for sustained traffic use and/or very hot weather, Stant 10233/11233 are 16psi.. IAC carry your oem cap to compare.
 

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2006 Burgman 400 - Silver - 8600 miles - and climbing !
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I agree the OP should do the "kitchen pan thermostat test" to verify function.

Wouldn't he be free to cut out the inner "working" portion of thermostat, leaving it's edge / seal portion & inner hole will allow coolant flow ?

Be about the same test as taking it out entirely...

Cheers - David

PS: hang in there you'll get er done...esp with all these Scoot Pros helping lol
 

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I agree the OP should do the "kitchen pan thermostat test" to verify function.

Wouldn't he be free to cut out the inner "working" portion of thermostat, leaving it's edge / seal portion & inner hole will allow coolant flow ?

Be about the same test as taking it out entirely...

Cheers - David

PS: hang in there you'll get er done...esp with all these Scoot Pros helping lol
yep that 's what I did while waiting for my new one to come in, it works ok but the fluid moves thru a little too quick to be most efficient so do replace it if you go this route
 

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2003 Burgman AN400
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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
yep that 's what I did while waiting for my new one to come in, it works ok but the fluid moves thru a little too quick to be most efficient so do replace it if you go this route
Well gents, I ran a couple of tests specified to check the thermostat and coolant temp sensor. Both checked out after running tests. First time I ever use that cooking machine my wife got to get an accurate water temp. I also topped off the radiator, removed the thermostat and installed a temp TPU gasket.

Went to crank the scooter and.... NO START!!!!!!! :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:. Let's keep in mind, I have been able to start it and let it run a few time already until it over heats.
So I have no idea what the heck is going on. I'm just pissed off.
If you guys have so ideas on what I should check please please throw them my way.

I plan on removing the fuel line to see if it primes again. If that works, I will remove to check the injector atomizes fuel.
At this point I feel like I'm chasing my tail. I hope the Suzuki gods grace me with a solution. I WANT TO GO RIDING!


Auto part Automotive exterior Metal Bumper Titanium
Fluid Cookware and bakeware Cooking Kitchen appliance Gas
Musical instrument Cookware and bakeware Gas Cooking Composite material
 

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2003 Burgman AN400
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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Ok fellas I can say with confidence. The bike does not overhead with the thermostat out WHEN it starts. I did this mainly to let water flow freely through the cooling system, to get any air out.
So the overheating issue has been squashed. 🤞
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 · (Edited)
Over heating issue resolved.

The bike cranks reliably but does not start every time. I have not been able to consistently get the bike to run. I have checked all the fuses. The fuel pump relay is good. The side stand switch and relay working. NO check engine light.

When you turn the key to start, you are supposed to hear the fuel pump prime the cylinder to a start. When I do hear the fuel pump prime it will start. But for some reason I do not hear the fuel pump prime the cylinder every time I switch the ignition to the start position.

I am thinking of going to the fuel pump ( on the coupler side) and connecting a 12v directly to make sure the pump still works. I will disconnect the fuel hose at the fuel injector to verify fuel delivery.
Then maybe a continuity test all the way back to the ECM.
What components am I missing to test?????
 

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The fuel pump may not cycle every time. The pressure needs to bleed down some.
 

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These two posts about the same needs to be merged. Done.
 
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2003 Burgman AN400
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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
The fuel pump may not cycle every time. The pressure needs to bleed down some.
Do you have a time frame to take into consideration? I am going to run the fuel pump directly off a 12V to isolate it from the rest of the system. Then we will see what else is up the line is failing.
Thank you for the replies and help. (y)(y)(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
WOOHOOO!!!!! We finally got this starting problem licked! In my last post, I mentioned I was going to isolate the pump to see if it was working properly. So I disconnected the fuel pump coupler all the way to the relay. I checked for continuity and it was good. But looking at the coupler, I see something that grabs my attention.
Finger Gesture Thumb Nail Electrical wiring

I'm almost 50 and my eyes are ****** just like the rest of us at this age. . I take some cleaner and shoot the coupler to clean it up a bit.
So I bust out the phone and take a few close up shots of the coupler

Automotive lighting Personal protective equipment Bag Electric blue Metal
Hood Bumper Wood Gas Automotive exterior


I take the female out by lifting a little tab in the coupler... first I do the one that look different from the other three. At this point I'm still not sure what I'm looking at.
Then I pull another one to compare. So the female terminal is missing a flat tab that folds back into the hole. That makes contact with the blade from the male side of the coupler. I took the bad terminal and closed up the hole a bit just to test. I closed the circuit and heard the pump prime. Guys, my eyes failed me the few times I looked at it. I only sw it because I was looking at the colors of the wires to find out which powered the fuel pump.
BOOM! It starts.
That was the freaking bloody issue!!! I still need to fix that female terminal proper. Its all gravy now. finish checking the rest of the bike and all the cosmetic stuff. A few broken panel and one that is totally missing.

I need a beer to celebrate!!!!

Funny thing is, I told my wife all happy. She looks at me and say UHU... She will never understand....lol





Hand Arm Body jewelry Gesture Thumb
 

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Now pickup a Dupont type crimping tool for those connectors.
 

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2014 Burgman 400
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" A connector is just another failure point " was common saying among aviation electricians in my aviation career, it did not matter what quality and/or type weather sealing devices was used, they got dirty, most issues could be fixed by either reseating and/or cleaning a connector, I did plenty myself. When weatherproof heat shrink solder connectors came along it really help reduce some of the issues. I deleted several of the problematic connectors on my previous bikes and hard wired with heat shrink solder (side-stand switch, fan, fuel pump, generator, etc.). I mean is it really necessary to have a quick disconnect wire on a component that is not removed regularly, hardly fails and when it does is usually a bad connector o_O Is a "Catch 22" situation.
 

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141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #119 ·
" A connector is just another failure point " was common saying among aviation electricians in my aviation career, it did not matter what quality and/or type weather sealing devices was used, they got dirty, most issues could be fixed by either reseating and/or cleaning a connector, I did plenty myself. When weatherproof heat shrink solder connectors came along it really help reduce some of the issues. I deleted several of the problematic connectors on my previous bikes and hard wired with heat shrink solder (side-stand switch, fan, fuel pump, generator, etc.). I mean is it really necessary to have a quick disconnect wire on a component that is not removed regularly, hardly fails and when it does is usually a bad connector o_O Is a "Catch 22" situation.
Are you referencing these things? Just now seeing these little connectors.

White Product Font Line Parallel


Back in the day when I worked on 727 we didn't have these. Well, I was a power plant guy. Maybe the avionics guys knew about them.:unsure:
 
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