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How? I would try an epoxy in the cracks and clamp it together. Are the threads stripped? In the left of that pic it looks like the belt - installed backwards? I thought the teeth went went around the sheaves or is it a trick of my eyes? You say the drain plug boss is cracked also? How much torque did you use?
2 kindsa belts, one has a smooth side, other is bumpy as swmbo's gravy on both sides

also that's a hefty chunk of aluminiminiminim , recycle it , gonna be worth a dollar or two.
 

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the cheap repair will also do IMO, sometimes you don't want to go into a Rabbit Hole unless you must
It's a mess. Hole not round. Cracked almost to inside face. Threads bu******d. Change it out. Clutch will get a service / de-glaze at the same time. Plenty of support from here if OP needs further help.
I was thinking the same thing maybe be smarter to just get the whole piece there. But dang thats just gonna hurt my feelings lol.
(y)

Water Automotive tire Wood Rim Gas
 

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2014 Burgman 400
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Well IMO suggestions where given for quick/feasible repair based on expressed/implied situation of OP and lack of clear information overall.. Yes doing it right with new parts and/or getting someone with the knowledge is always the best way, if you have the means $$. Taking to a independent shop in most of the US no so good IMO $$$, very few far in between know scooters or want to work on them. In some cases DIY temporary or improvised repairs are as durable as the original.

Looks like Ebay cover is sold, hopefully a happy ending :D
 
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Welcome Tylor. Seeing that ebay listing for the gearbox cover ended, guessing you bought it.

Don't feel bad. This thread was started the day after I bought my 07 in July 2018. The work wasn't difficult just time consuming. I learned a lot about the 400 doing the work myself. Take your time.

Here's a link to Mitch's B400 playlist on YouTube.

Take your time, it'll be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Lmao yep purchased. Im a bit overwhelmed about the whole thing but i believe it'll work out. Im just worried about other issues like this that may arrive. Thank all of you for the fast responses. Yall have been very helpful. Between this forum and mitches videos is what made me want a burgman 400. Mitch does fantastic videos and this site has very helpful tips and knowledge. I figured it would make it easier on me to learn. Thanks again everyone.
 

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I found a picture of the inside of the cover. I never had to remove it before. Looks like there are three bearings. When you receive the used cover check the bearings for rough spots by turning them with your finger. They should turn smoothly and not notchy. Also I'm not sure if your drive shaft needs to be pressed into the new cover. Maybe someone can chime in. Looks a little more complicated but working on a car or a motorcycle nothing is as easy as it seems.

Just take a deep breath and work through one thing at a time. It will all get done. If you need something pressed in you can take it to a shop and it wont cost much since you have it disassembled.
 

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Usually the 3 shafts just slide into bearings, not pressed into them, some times the clutch shaft will be stuck on cover bearing or seal, if so minimal force will motivate it out, the seals and bearings are very robust, usually will last the life of the scooter, good old gasoline wash on all parts not a bad idea, some brake cleaners sprays, etc. may attack rubber seals, no water rinsed degreasers in gearbox, it does not get hot enough to evaporate any trapped water in there !!, the aft wheel shaft will stay in place(as long as there's a wheel installed, just make sure center gear shaft side washers are in place, and it spins freely by hand, etc, Taking pics and numbering your fasteners with a sharpie as you go helps, grease seal lips and "O" rings, IAC look everything over good, check for damage on seals, etc. I still do this stuff after 50 years as a mechanic. Yes we had polaroid cameras back then :rolleyes:.
Again clean belt area well, grease or oil bad for belt/clutch. You can idle with cover off and rev some, to check for leaks and operation of CVT, just keep at minimun, IAC the shop manual, youtube and this forum are your friends.Sorry for Rant, mostly PSA !!
 

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Some good answers, glad you are sorted.

Looks like the original problem was the bolt was cross threaded and set at an angle against the weakest part of the casting. Be sure to refit the bolt by hand at first, it should spin fairly freely until it snugs up.
(out of habit, I always give bolts a turn backwards first with very little pressure and you can feel it drop into the thread)
 

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Personally, I'd buy a new one, sometimes ya gotta bite the bullet 😐 for peace of mind.
 

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Im a bit overwhelmed about the whole thing but i believe it'll work out.
Of course it will. Nobody yet has said anything about torquing, and you seem to want to use your T wrench. Torque specs are written for dry threads. If any oil is present, reduce the wrench setting 15 to 20%. As said earlier, very few guys will use a torque wrench for non critical fasteners. Fork clamps, cylinder head bolts, exhaust manifold bolts, some frame bolts, of course, torque to spec. Drain plugs, muffler hanger bolts, nope. I simply choke up on the ratchet wrench (hold closer to the head) to reduce the length of the lever arm and make it harder for me to overtighten a bolt. Then just make it snug.
 

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If you can't find one cheap, call around and find a welding shop in your area. They would be able to weld up that area then tap it out. Would be as good as new or maybe stronger!
 

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Your going to get a lot of advice here. Take you time. Listen to all the comments and then make the final decision. It is your scooter and your more vested into it then us old guys typing away in our underwear. I speak for myself.
 

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