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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok i been interested in burgman 400 for some time now. I found one a couple months back for cheapish(2000$ with 16,000 miles). I went to change all the fluid this past week and when i did the final gear oil fill spot cracked in half, a good chunk came off.. is there anything i can do to fix it or do i need to replace this whole part?i feel like i will need to change the entire thing here cause honestly feel like the same thing was started on the drain plug as well. Everything seemed good when i bought it, i had to settle for this price range and this area to get this bike now i feel like i wasted my money. If i have to replace this what is it called and where can i get it? And is it easy to change out? I planned on taking my license test with this and now i just feel like giving up. I've never had a license and now i feel i have wasted all the extra cash i had and dont know what to do. Its nits cause i specifically went and got a torque wrench so i wouldnt strip the holes and then this happens.
95406
 

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How? I would try an epoxy in the cracks and clamp it together. Are the threads stripped? In the left of that pic it looks like the belt - installed backwards? I thought the teeth went went around the sheaves or is it a trick of my eyes? You say the drain plug boss is cracked also? How much torque did you use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
On the drain plug i feel like i could do the same thing but the torque wrench set it jist fine. And i am unsure of the belt. This is the way it was when i got it and i didnt know untill this week. Aslo that pieceis brike all the way through i mean i was considering putting a new plug in with washer and epoxy all around it and the cracked pieces and clamp but i honestly dont know what im doing. This is all new to me. I think the fill hole was cracked to start with and i didnt notice till it was too late.
 

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if thats the fill bolt, youre in better luck. cant tell if its the drain or fill bolt for FGD

maybe jb weld that thing in there. unfortunate problem.

others will chime in. maybe its possible to weld it as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I really think it was cracked before i staerted and i finished breaking it off. Im currently draining the little oil i put in it. So far several people told me to use jb weld. But im not gonna lie im kinda scared lol.
 

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There are ribs on the inside and outside of the belt so your fine there. I never saw a crack like that before. Your probably the first. Did someone just crank the hell out of it? Since it is the fill hole that's better then the drain hole. Was there fluid in there when you drained it?

My brother's car broke down in Canada with a crack in the transmission case and the local repair shop fixed it with JB Weld. Never leaked after that. I think that is your best bet. Take it to a local mechanic you trust, doesn't have to be a motorcycle mechanic, show him what happened and if it is fixable. As long as the crack is filled so no fluid leaks out your good to go.

Just don't get JB weld in the threads or anywhere the washer mates with the surface.

Then keep the plastic cover off when you drive it to monitor if it is seeping or leaking.

Good luck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. Im not sure. It appears the owner before me did in fact crank it too hard cause i followed specs in the manual. I dont wanna sound too ignorant cause i know i will need to fill it again sometime but what if i fill the hole in completely and retap it? Or just leave the jb weld in there till next time lol. This has me pretty upset considering i just got it. And im mechanically inclined not an actual mechanic. What is the actual part its attached to called too so i can explain better to others lol. Is it the final drive housing?.
 

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I wouldn't fill the hole all the way since to drill it you would get hard particles in the diff there. You just want to fill the cracks on the outside so the fluid does not leak out and make a mess. When you fill the rear end it holds fluid just to the bottom of the fill hold.
 

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Looks like the gear box cover is separate from the crankcase cover and can be replaced. Part 32 and the seal part 33. Maybe just replace it.

 

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$30.00 bucks. Probably best way to go. You'll have a new bike again! What year is your bike? We are assuming a 2007-2016.

 

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A temporary or permanent ?? J&B weld/epoxy repair will work good IMO, it's not really structural to the cover, but keeping oil in gears and off belt/clutch is a must do, IAC need to drain oil and clean area well with brake clean, use enough epoxy to seal and bond pieces together, no big globs !!, clamp with a zip tie around it, electrical tape,etc. epoxy won't stick to it, before the glue sets, coat plug threads with grease and install temporary finger tight while epoxy dries, leave overnight !!, grease will let it release/ not stick to epoxy, remove plug, service oil and install bolt with a "RUBBER" washer instead of metal oem, snug just past finger tight, or clean all oil from plug and threads and install with red RTV sealant.

Or replace cover 07-16 SUZUKI Burgman AN400 Gearbox Gear Box Cover OEM #06527 | eBay

IAC good luck !!
 

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30.00 bucks and a new seal. Get an owners manual to show you how to remove it and torque it, done. Then on to the next problem!
 

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He's not a mechanic, but he did stay in a Holiday Inn Express.... What was that torque wrench set at? I always use less torque than is suggested and never on fill or drain plugs. Screw in until the surfaces mate and then use two fingers to pull it tight. I'm 75 today and realize I've been at this mechanicing business for well over a half century. Everything from bicycles to bulldozers and more. Retired Master Millwright, journeyman pipe fitter and heavy equipment mechanic. I sure miss having apprentices to beat.
 

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The only reason I suggested JB weld is I thought that was part of the crankcase cover. Splitting an engine block is not for the faint hearted. Just a cover with 7 bolts.
 

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Well if there not another issue R/R cover will work, " feel like i will need to change the entire thing here cause honestly feel like the same thing was started on the drain plug as well " OP Quote ??, but with 7.5K miles or ?? gearbox service interval, the cheap repair will also do IMO, sometimes you don't want to go into a Rabbit Hole unless you must :unsure:
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I downloaded a manual and went .5 lower than that, assuming i was being careful. The manual i got says 11.5 and i was no where near that and the piece just busted. Just got done draining the oil and it appears the owner before me had stripped it out and applied some jb weld to the bolt and hard cranked it in. And when i was just blowing through the fluid change it didnt look like anything was wrong and when i put the bolt back in and went to spec it buldged the piece out, metal shavings and old epoxy by the look of it. I dont know, im gonna order the part from ebay uncle fester suggested and hope for the best. Quite a turn off for sure but thats what i get for buying used i guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
And just checked the drain its fine. It was in pretty tough when i first took it out but not like the fill plug. And i already put it in but i was thinking the same thing maybe be smarter to just get the whole piece there. But dang thats just gonna hurt my feelings lol.
 
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