[dominnys]

I've been prying on the final drive yolk and
Wanted to know if it should come out.
I see on a 2wheel burg it comes out when
The rear wheel is removed.

Thanks

Dom

 

[farqhuarforever]

It comes out.

 

[ErikDK]

Yolk??

Yoke?

 

[ChipDoc]

Perhaps Yokel?

 

[dominnys]

Looks like I need a yoke! Ya Think?

Some people shouldn't be allowed to work on bikes.
It's just wrong.

 

[Dave_J]

Dom, What the heck is that a picture of? Zoom out some. I'd say working on a bike with a jackhammer is wrong. That is a mess.

 

[dominnys]

2005 AN 650 Rear Hub Gear Joint

This was botched by someone who did not know
How to put this drive in properly.

 

[Buffalo]

That looks like a modified version of the rear joint assembly from the wheel. In it's normal version it would have post where those mangled holes are. Is what we are seeing the result of removing those post or is this a custom made piece of the trike kit.

From looking at the picture I think the side toward you hand is the side that fits into the bikes final drive and the side with the mangled holes faces the trike kit. Do the three bolts you have mentioned breaking go through those holes. If so I'm assuming they go through from the side you hand is on and screw into the trike kit.

 

[dominnys]

Your correct it's the same stock hub driven gear. It's not custom. And it
Connects the same way except to a special aluminum spacer with a
Bearing then the sproket.

I need a new one and will order tonight. Also need a axel and the castle
Nut.

Someone used threaded inserts and a smaller bolt which
Is why they keeps shearing off. I will have her properly
Repaired in a week.

Thanks for the comments folks

Dom

 

[Rusty J]

This is why machine shops get paid the big bucks.

A picture is worth a thousand words; in this case, most of them aren't suitable for use around young children.

 

[TheReaper]

Shooting previous owners should be considered justifiable homicide . :banghead:

TheReaper!

 

[Chérie]

some people shouldn't be allowed to work on bikes.
It's just wrong.

OMG !!!!!!! That picture show horror story.

 

[Buffalo]

Your correct it's the same stock hub driven gear. It's not custom. And it
Connects the same way except to a special aluminum spacer with a
Bearing then the sproket.

I need a new one and will order tonight. Also need a axel and the castle
Nut.

Someone used threaded inserts and a smaller bolt which
Is why they keeps shearing off. I will have her properly
Repaired in a week.

Thanks for the comments folks

Dom

I'm trying to envision how this is put together.

On the stock wheel setup, that piece is held on by 3 clamps and 6 bolts (2 for each clamp). The clamps fit over the smaller protrusions between the ones with the holes in them. Where the holes are in yours there are post that fit through bushings then up into the wheel.

1) Are the clamps used to hold the hub to the aluminum spacer like they do to the stock wheel?

2) Did those post shear off of your piece or have they been machined off?

3) What are the 3 bolts you keep talking about failing used for. Do they take the place of the clamps to secure the hub to the aluminum spacer.

 

[ErikDK]

Some pictures of the normal wheel:

Why do you call the coupler a "yolk", even though I guess you mean "yoke" I can't see the resemblance?

 

[dominnys]

I'll give this a shot

from right to left the assembly goes as followers. all these parts go on the axel.

castle nut w/ pin
long spacer cut down to fit.
sprocket aluminum cover.
sprocket
large aluminum spacer with bearing
adaptor plate
yoke drive

behind that assembly it the trike axel and differential with another sprocket. connect the two with a chain and that's it.

hope I explained that right. the bolts that keep snapping are the bolts from the adaptor plate to the yoke. whoever put this together used inserts in the yoke with smaller #8 bolts. they require #12 bolts. big difference in size and strength

ordered the yoke and some other parts tonight. looking forward to getting her back together and rolling down the road

Dom

 

[ErikDK]

How is the yoke drive, which Suzuki calls Rear hub driven joint connected to adapter plate? By unscrewing the smooth studs, which originally engage with the wheel's rubber bushings, and using standard bolts to create a ridgid flange joint?
If so, you'd be much better off by duplicating as much of Suzuki's original design as possible, by making a new adapter plate with cushioning rubber bushings.

Is an adapter from a different trike manufacturer an option within reasonably spending?

 

[ErikDK]

Just for fun, I've colored a cross section drawing of the rear wheel/drive assy.

 

[Buffalo]

Eric, I think that is exactly what they have done. Remove the studs and use bolts to hard connect the drive hub to the adapter. That does away with the cushioning effect you get with the stock setup. Those bolts will have quite a bit of stress on them. Larger bolts will help. I don't know how the adapter is made but possibly he could drill and tap it to add the clamps that Suzuki uses in the stock wheel setup. That would provide more support for the bolts and maybe take some of the stress off them.

 

[dominnys]

Buffalo got it right. The origional studs are removed and 3-#12 x 1.25 x25MM
Bolts are used.

Thanks for the interest !

Dom

 

[Dave_J]

Bolts are like wiring, they need to be of a size to do the job then add about two sizes bigger. But most times they use sub standard sizes and it fails. The Trinity's adapter should have been designed to use the factory Suzuki rubber bushings and pins.