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Discussion Starter #1
On the way back to Orlando today from Destination Daytona the FI lite came on with the FI and mileage indicator flashing. The owners manual says thake it to the nearest dealer without turning it off,pretty hard to do on Sunday. The scooter was running OK so is there anyting I can check before I check with the dealer. There is 2200 miles on the scooter and had driven 140 miles on the same tank of fuel. Any hints?
 

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Check this thread viewtopic.php?p=365186#p365186 and it will tell you how to access the plug under the seat that puts the ECM in dealer mode. Once it is in dealer mode you can read the code that is causing the FI indicator. It will display on the dash. The code can be looked up in the service manual to see what the problem is. If you don't have one of those check LeDude's Burgman Center. I believe he has a list of the codes in there.

As your owner's manual says, the code is lost when you turn the key off so you will have to ride it again to get the code reset before you can read it.
 

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Hi there MrWick. There are tonnes of F1 threads which will likely get you started, but as having recently experienced a F1 scare (well more than a scare as my event left me stranded some 30km away from home base in mainland China - which means it's not a simple task to call a breakdown service or an automobile association as I would have done in NZ or OZ). My thread and the advice from other inmates that followed is here viewtopic.php?f=4&t=59295 which might be useful for you. It turned out that my F1 failure was a simple plug (the plug on top of the battery tray) that had worked its way loose some how or rather, and had I worked that out on the night in question I would have saved my self a lot of heartache not too mention - money. Check all the plug connections and fuses that you can. Two simple fuses you can connect are a simple matter of lifting the seat, and looking at the left side cut away you will find the "main" and "CVT" fuses. Of course if your scoot is still running and you can get yourself to a burgy dealership that's be my first choice. Nothing like being stranded roadside or worse with a heavy dead arse iceBURG. When the deared event happened to me the burgy was and is too heavy to push so I didn't even attempt it, whereas a few weeks earlier my more sprightly Jetmax maxi scoot suffered a less than stellar battery out in some mountains where I'd made a stop at a small water fall, only to find the scoot wouldn't start up due to a dying battery, which resulted in my pushing the scoot some 10km before a motorcyclist (riding a 125cc bike) offered to give me a push, after we tried to set up a tow line (which failed).

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=59295
 

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your profile says you own a 2012 model... I am assuming that it is still under warranty.... if so, take it to the dealership and let them take care of it...

in the meantime if you want to find out the code for your F1 light, you can use this DIY to build your own special tool:

DIY - F1 Sepecial Tool



if you don't have a service manual, you can check my Burgman Center to figure out what the code means...
 

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You do not need to loose the code to retrieve it. Keep in mind that this will have to be done in under roughly 3 seconds. With the bike running turn the key off, pop the trunck, and restart the bike. Now that you have the trunk open you can either jumper the diagnostic connectors as shown above or short the white wire with red tracer to ground. That forces the ECM to display the code in the odometer.
 

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MJR said:
You do not need to loose the code to retrieve it. Keep in mind that this will have to be done in under roughly 3 seconds. With the bike running turn the key off, pop the trunck, and restart the bike. Now that you have the trunk open you can either jumper the diagnostic connectors as shown above or short the white wire with red tracer to ground. That forces the ECM to display the code in the odometer.
This would be a good time to have previously installed the seat latch release mod. With bike running, put it on center stand, pull the seat release release cable. Lots of time to retrieve the code. :thumbup:
 

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Ken said:
MJR said:
You do not need to loose the code to retrieve it. Keep in mind that this will have to be done in under roughly 3 seconds. With the bike running turn the key off, pop the trunck, and restart the bike. Now that you have the trunk open you can either jumper the diagnostic connectors as shown above or short the white wire with red tracer to ground. That forces the ECM to display the code in the odometer.
This would be a good time to have previously installed the seat latch release mod. With bike running, put it on center stand, pull the seat release release cable. Lots of time to retrieve the code. :thumbup:
Ah but now that I know how to do it I need not worry about loosing a code. It would be far better to simply wire in a switch to say one of the non lockable storage bins should I want to check it on the fly.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies I like the idea of the switch to turn on service mode to display the code. I have a switch and some wire so I will probably do that,no way I can see getting it to a dealer when the FI shows up without shutting of the bike. I guess that will be my project for the day.I am assuming that if the FI light is not on when you take it to the dealer they will NOT be able to do anything about it. I am only guessing that you tell them what code you had they will believe you or say we have to see it before we will fix it.I do not have a service manual for the 2012 but do have one for the 2004 I owned before,should it be pretty much the same?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I do not have a connector with a blue/white wire. I have 2 connectors near the cvt and main fuses a 2 wire and a 4 wire connector. The 2 wire connector has a black/white and what looks like and orange/black dots. I do not want to short across the wrong wires to install the service mode switch. Is the 2 wire connector the correct one. Both unused connectors have caps on them just to make sure this is the same connector described. I have a 2012 so maybe the colors have changed.
 

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Here's another photo of the connector and wires. It's a 6 pin connector but there should only be 4 wires using it. The color of wires you jumper are a white wire with red tracer (diagnostic wire) and a black wire with white tracer (ground). According to my service manual that goes up to 2011 the wire colors are the same and it gives no indication that the connector has changed (doubt that they would have done so for 2012). Look for the connector with those wire colors.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Connector on the 2012 looks to be the same as the one pictures in the last post. Went to the dealer today and that is the connector and wire he pointed out. Service writer said that without then seeing the FI failure they would not do anything even if I gave them the code. I have been having starter problems since day onebut will not fail while at the dealers so they will not do anything about that either. When the bike has been ridden and good and warmed up,if I stop for 20-30 minutes when I try to start it the starter spins but doesn't turn the engine over until I hear a clunk. Tried it yesterday,the starter spun for about 3 seconds without turning the engine over,release the start swich tried it again and started right up after the clunk.
 

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I am not surprised that they wouldn't just repair it with the code. The code is another symptom and does not always point directly to a cause but a good mechanic should be able to use that information to isolate where to look.

The starting problem sounds like it should be easy to duplicate for them to see the problem. Sounds to me like it's in the starter clutch.
 

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MJR said:
It would be far better to simply wire in a switch to say one of the non lockable storage bins should I want to check it on the fly.
Excellent idea Mike, I am going to put that idea on my to do list. Only problem is that my list is starting to get longer than what I can accomplish in a reasonable amount of time, but I will get it done sometime. Maybe on one of the cold and wet days this winter. :thumbup:
 

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On the starting problem I think I would pull the maintenance cover (between the legs) and see if the starter is bolted in properly otherwise I'd suspect the starter clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thats is what I tried to explain to them today,starter seems to be working but what ever is between the starter and the flywheel(clutch) is whats screwing up. Again they said if they can't get it to do it they won't look at it. The starter problem is documented in the 600 mile service paperwork.This is the same dealer that had three items to do for the 600 mile service and all three were done incorrectly. So getting anything done at this dealership is going to be tough
 

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MrWick said:
Thats is what I tried to explain to them today,starter seems to be working but what ever is between the starter and the flywheel(clutch) is whats screwing up. Again they said if they can't get it to do it they won't look at it. The starter problem is documented in the 600 mile service paperwork.This is the same dealer that had three items to do for the 600 mile service and all three were done incorrectly. So getting anything done at this dealership is going to be tough
Surely there is more than one dealer in your area?

http://www.suzukicycles.com/Dealers.aspx

BTW you can always call Suzuki Customer Service and express your concerns as well as ask them to help you find a dealer that will assist you.

http://www.suzukicycles.com/Contact.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I wired in a switch yesterday so if the FI light comes back on at some point in time I will be able to display it. I ran the wires out from under the seat to a switch I mounted in the cup holder mounted on the hump cover. I tried it to make sure it works and it posted a C00 where the mileage shows up so I guess the error really does get erased when the ignition switch is turned off.
 
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