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Discussion Starter #1
Some of us have experienced the dreaded FI light on our 650s. In order to correctly determine the cause of the malady, you need Suzuki's wonderful and oh-so-special tool, a glorified jumper, aka "Switch Mode Selector" (part # 09930-82720). This costs $11.50 at Oneida's. Quite a while ago jchertig sent me some info on making your own jumper. I regret taking so long to post the information and get it out in the public domain. I can't take credit for this original research, so I appreciate John's efforts. In addition, I have not yet performed this function to determine if the instructions are correct. Please post here if you find they do or don't work.

Yes... just in case I ordered the FI Service Switch on-line for about $20 delivered and then proceeded to drive to my local dealer and physically looked at the one they had in their service department. I spoke with one of their technicians who was familiar with using it and he joked that it as a waste of money as all he did was jumper the two wires in the diagnostic connector and didn't bother with the "switch".

So that is what I did... took an inch or two of wire and striped 3/8" of insulation off each end and used it to jumper the two wires that then generate the FI error "C" codes in the dash display below the MPH indicator. The diagnostic connector is located behind the plastic cover on the left side of the scooter which you have access to when you raise the seat on the 650... near the seat hinge. Remove one Phillips head screw and you can lift the side of the black plastic up enough to get access to the connector, which has a black rubber cover that you can see in the photo.

There are a number of wires coming out of the connector but the only two you are concerned with are the White with Red stripe and the Black with White stripe. If you face the female end of the connector they are the two, top and bottom, pin connectors on the far right hand side of the connector. Again, I think the photo clearly shows where they jumper needs to be connected.

After putting in the jumper just turn on the key and, if necessary, turn over the engine with the starter switch. The "C" code will show up in the display. Simple.
It is nice to find a cheap, simple work-around to a "special tool"... especially one in which no dealer appears to stock and charges $15+ for a connector, two wires and a $.0.50 toggle switch soldered onto the end. What I find really interesting is that the switch itself is totally worthless and adds no value whatsoever.
I don't know about you guys, but since I have a 400 mile trip planned for this weekend, I plan looking at this tonight, and making a jumper to take with me.

[attachment=3:3orojl1w]t_19621.jpg[/attachment:3orojl1w]

[attachment=2:3orojl1w]Diagnostic%20Connector.JPG[/attachment:3orojl1w]

[attachment=1:3orojl1w]Jumper%20in%20place.JPG[/attachment:3orojl1w]

[attachment=0:3orojl1w]Jumper%20in%20place b.JPG[/attachment:3orojl1w]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I confirmed the location of the plug pictured above. It is one of 3 or more plugs under the Main and CVT fuses. They are tucked under the black plastic covering the battery. Since I've had my wiring harness replaced, the stock configuration may be slightly different. I didn't try plugging in a jumper, didn't want to take any chances right before a much anticipated trip. I'll try it next week to see how it works, even though I've got no codes.
 

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Question, so by doing this the F1 code will display automatically with any special switch..... correct.
 

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If F1 comes on when riding, don't shut off scooter. Then cut out the smaller U shaped part of paper clip and insert in the plug - it fits perfectly, If you shut off scooter before doing this, code is canceled out. Why waste money on switch that does no more?
 

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Just remember that the plug normally lives under the seat and opening the seat involves shutting off the ignition.

If you leave the plug permanently jumpered, your odometer will permanently display the null FI code, C00, until there is a fault event. No mileage numbers.

So if you have a permanent fault condition, no problem with troubleshooting it with a jumper. If the fault is intermittant, having the switch on a pigtail and letting it dangle below the seat is handy.
 

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Well I guess I'm a nerd, I went ahead and bought the switch, now just need to know where the heck the plug is on a 650,2005. And can it be mounted like a toggle switch on the dash board and avoid having to remove panels all the time needed.
FYI the F1 light comes on while wife is ridding, she says it runs normal
 

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I wired in a switch and mounted the switch on my cup holder that I installed on the hump cover. I have only had one FI light but that was before I installed the switch. I have turned the switch on a couple of times just to test it and it shows C00 until you turn it off. I had the switch and the wire so the cost was zero. Service people said they wouldn't even look at an FI code unless they were able to recreate it.
 

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you can plug the tool into the socket and let the toggle swtich hang on the side of the seat in the off position.

the next time the F1 light comes on, your wife should pull to the side of the road, not turn off the scoot, and turn the switch to the on position to see what code appears on the dash.

not sure if the scoot is designed to run in the dealer mode at all times during normal use / operation.

good luck.
 

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Does anyone know if a voltage tester with two prongs and a light would also work as a jumper to show the code? I don't get the F1 light until after the Burg has run for about 20 seconds. Can I start and leave running with seat up and test while running?
 

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Try it out for yourself and report back here. The manual calls for short circuit, as in zero Ohm, while your lightbulb starts out with nearly zero Ohm, which quickly rises, if the supplied voltage is near the bulb's design voltage.
The engine doesn't care if the seat is open.
 
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