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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
riding my AN650 2012, hadn't ridden in long time, installed new battery, started, ran normally for 5 minutes, then. the red F1 light came on and seemed to lose power, I could accelerate very slowly, but if I gave it any gas it would just rev and not speed up.

Any help appreciated.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for your help, was unable to get back to the bike until now.

In summary, my AN 650. 2009, not 2012, F1 code came on after replacing the battery. Bike starts, but "never gets out of first gear, very little of power being transmitted to the wheel. Center with seems not to be stuck, and wiring looks ok. I did LeDude's trick of shorting the plug to get the F1 fault code. Initially there was no code displayed, but when I started the bike on the center stand, I got code of " -COO. "

Any advice of what this means, and what to do about it would be appreciated.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
this time, I connected the 2 wires as directed, then started engine and initially code was C00, then changed to C58, which means CVT reduction ratio disagreement.

I hope somebody knows what this means, and I hope the situation is not too dire...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Bump. F1 light on, code is C58, "CVT reduction ratio disagreement". Anyone dealt with this before, any ideas where to start?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks for your help, guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend.
No recent maintenance, rode it about once/ month over the winter, did not use tender, then the bike would not start due to dead battery, which would not take a charge and I replaced it. Immediately after that, the F1 light and engine racing and very little power getting to rear wheel
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update.

When confronted w/ serious problem, my usual response is to procrastinate, and see if it will go away...
Been riding the "other bike" a 2000 BMW 1200c in the interim.

Problem was the clutch would seem to mostly disengage when given any power at all, got error code c58. reduction ratio disagreement. couldn't even drive it to the shop.

New info: so far, have done nothing, bike works much better, clutch only seems to 'partially disengage" when trying to accelerate rapidly, or if going over 45 mph,

15k miles on clock. oil is Rotella T6, although last change "a while" ago. I did clutch test, gunning the engine with both brakes pressed, and RPM immediately went up to 8-9000.

sometimes c58 code will come on within a few seconds, other times no error codes, but either way, it will switch to manual but 1st gear only, and blink 3x if I try to upshift.

do I have 1 problem (cvt). or 2. (clutch)

what do I need to remove to get to CVT sensors to "try to clean them out"?

Reluctant to go to dealer, since 2009 bike and cosmetic damage, cracked plastic below windshield from zero mph crash, probably would cost more than worth, and it "almost" works ok now

anybody within about 50 miles of Charlottesville, VA willing to help me with this "project"?

again, thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
to clarify, "the cleveman". and. djc1. are the same person, had to set up new account when could not get into old one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Do you want djc1 or cleverman? I can merge both into 1 name.
will stick with the original username, "thecleveman". note no r in thecleveman. Thanks.
dave, would that be djc1cleverman or clevermandjc1
just "thecleveman". my original username, note no r
Thanks
A slipping clutch will not give you a FI code. It will just slip. The C58 code occurs when the pulley position sensor position does not agree with the rpm being detected by the secondary pulley speed sensor. When it is set the ECM will inhibit shifting. You will be stuck in the equivalent of 2nd gear.

It can be caused by a faulty PPS. That sensor is easy to get to. You just have to remove the plastic under the right floorboard. Just two screws to remove to pull the sensor out. You can test it to see if you can move the plunger smoothly through it's complete travel and if not you will probably need to replace it. You can also test the output with a multimeter to see if it changes smoothly as the plunger is moved. It should produce a voltage between 0.06 and 5.04 volts as it is moved.

The other sensor is the secondary speed sensor. If it is bad you should be getting a C54 code not a C58 code. To get to that sensor you have to remove the CVT as it is on the back side between the CVT and engine.

The other reason for this is water, oil, or some other foreign matter has gotten into the CVT causing the belt to slip. If that is the case the code will probably come and go. If it is just water it should clear it's self when the water dries up. If it is something else then you will probably have to remove the CVT and take it apart to clean it out.
My humble thanks for your expertise, wish me the best
 
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