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First, what kind of bike do you have?

Second- it depends on what's wrong, but the FI light means the ECU is unhappy with something in the Fuel or Ignition (FI) systems, and you'll need to read the code to tell exactly what. I'd say it's probably OK to ride it if it's not making some sort of noise or has a dramatic loss of power, but it's best to get it sorted sooner rather than later. The process for reading the code depends on the bike- normally it's just a matter of shorting two wires together, but the location of the connector that carries those wires varies by bike.
 

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Yes, which bike? How many miles? What year? There maybe known problems depending on the bike.

My F1 light came on intermittently for six months before a problem showed up, with a loss of power. Turned out to be a bad throttle body. I think the newer 07+ models might have a reputation for having problems around the 32k mile mark.
 
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Yes, tell us what Burgman scooter you have, the year and the size. The 400 has the test connector under the dash, and the 650 has the test connector under the seat. You activate the " Dealer Test Mode" using a simple paper clip bent in a U shape, holding the female Dealer Mode connector with the Release Clip on the top, stick the paper clip into the two pins on the right, one above the other. Then start the engine and read the code on the dash. I will appear as a C with two digits behind it. This number tells you the Code #, that you look up and use to troubleshoot the problem. Tell us what number you get and we'll tell you what the Code is.
 
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It depends on how you read the display.
If you read it as Fl (F + lower case L) then it means you live in Florida and can ride your bike year round. Congratulations.
If you read it as F1 (F + number one) then it means you are lucky enough to have one of the really, really fast formula 1 Burgmans. Congratulations.
If you read it correctly as FI (F + uppercase I) it means Fault Indication and it functions as the Burgman equivalent of the check engine light. It means that one of the 'things' that the ECM monitors is out of spec. To find out which reading is out of spec, you need to use the 'Dealer mode' function a.k.a. the magic jumper on the mysterious plug. This will cause the display to show what is causing the indication. The faults are not persistent so they reset every time your start your scooter. If you have an intermittent issue, you may find yourself having to ride around with the dealer mode jumper installed for a while until you finally get to read the code.

It is amazing how many people suggest it stands for fuel injection or fuel and ignition which represents only a portion of the monitoring functions the ECM performs.
 

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That was a very gentle admonition, Chatman- I stand corrected. I thought it was kind of funny for a "Fuel or Ignition" light to indicate a problem with the 650's CVT when it does so. But for 400's, there really isn't anything other than fuel or ignition that the ECU cares about.
 

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@Squeazel - you are by no means the only one to do this. Before posting I did a quick Google search on FI indicator on motorcycles. Only an a Kawi forum was the term Fault Indication used exclusively and on most threads it is not even mentioned. My post is my lame attempt to try and sway this groundswell of momentum (how's that for a mixed metaphor) in the general direction of Fault Indicator.

Then again, by popular acclaim, I am wrong. Eventually, the true meaning of this indicator will become fuel and ignition simply because that is what everybody says it means.

I used to be somewhat peevish about the correct pronunciation of forte. Until recently, if you were referring to a particular characteristic strength, the correct pronunciation was fort. Forte (for-tay) is a musical term telling the performer something about the dynamics of a particular passage. Common usage latched on to the feeling that it was more fun to say for-tay, possibly conveying a degree of sophistication that can only be properly demonstrated by mispronouncing a word. Now both are accepted and pretty much interchangeable as the linguists have thrown in the towel in the face of common usage.

Eventually it will be so for the FI light.
 
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I had a similar peeve about using the word "entitled" when meaning "titled". You are entitled to read the book titled "Grammar for Dummies"...

Anyway, it grew common enough that the second meaning of "entitled" in most dictionaries is now "titled". Hrumph!
 

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we need another thread for taters maters and busketti
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have a 2008 AN400 with 37,500 miles and has no loss of power. The light (FI) turned off later that day and has not come back on. Shop said they can't look at it unless the light is on.

I do need to change the oil but have not had a chance to do that. I'm probably at 4k miles since last change (synthetic), would that trigger the light?

Does anyone know where I can get a manual for cheap?

Thanks for all of your input. Very helpful!!
 

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On the light, it will NOT be triggered by old oil. At 4000 miles on that oil I would say its about just over half way to dumping.

The FI light does need to still be on to read the codes so once shut off it resets unless the issue is still there on the next fire up.

On manuals, there are posts of online manuals so just search and you should find it.
 
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Hi guys, The FI indication is a notification of a problem or maybe just a bad connection my Vstrom would show a FI light when first started or 20 miles into a ride, I would stop and restart the engine and the problem went away until it reappeared sometime later a day a week 3 months 6 months I could never predict. However I did fit a retard eliminator and the problem didn't reappear. hope this gave an insight .
 

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F1 light came on

I have a 2011 650 Executive with 6946 miles on it. Just got it out today after being stored in a heated garage over the winter. It has been on the service stand the whole time and was started a few times just to keep the battery charged. While going up a hill It felt like a loss of power and the RPM's increased and the F1 light came on. I pulled over and checked the owners manual and it indicated a problem with the fuel injection or the CVT. I restarted the engine and the light did not come back on. I rode on the my destination not giving it any extra throttle and it ran fine. However on the way home about 12 miles, I decided to give it more throttle and it would definately loose power and increase in RPM's. The F1 never came on. It just felt to me like slippage. Is this a "get to a dealer " situation, or are there things a "shadetree mechanic" can check? Thanks in advance for any help. John
 

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It depends on how you read the display.
If you read it as Fl (F + lower case L) then it means you live in Florida and can ride your bike year round. Congratulations.
If you read it as F1 (F + number one) then it means you are lucky enough to have one of the really, really fast formula 1 Burgmans. Congratulations.
If you read it correctly as FI (F + uppercase I) it means Fault Indication and it functions as the Burgman equivalent of the check engine light. It means that one of the 'things' that the ECM monitors is out of spec. To find out which reading is out of spec, you need to use the 'Dealer mode' function a.k.a. the magic jumper on the mysterious plug. This will cause the display to show what is causing the indication. The faults are not persistent so they reset every time your start your scooter. If you have an intermittent issue, you may find yourself having to ride around with the dealer mode jumper installed for a while until you finally get to read the code.

It is amazing how many people suggest it stands for fuel injection or fuel and ignition which represents only a portion of the monitoring functions the ECM performs.
So where is this mysterious dealer plug under the seat, I have a 2017 650 burg
 

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You have to buy one or build one ?

 

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On a 2007+ 400 it is under the fake wood dash trim on the right hand side.

On a 650 of undetermined heritage it could just about anywhere.
 

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I was a little hasty, I'm gonna have to lay off the Bombay Sapphire. You did say a 2017 650. Still I have the same answer, it could be just about anywhere.
Try searching the 650 forums for dealer mode.
 

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Went and looked and, assuming the location of the switch hasn't moved,...

You would probably want to look at this thread
 

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So where is this mysterious dealer plug under the seat, I have a 2017 650 burg
Bond, I am not sure if the 2013-2018 Burgman has this connector in the same place as the 2002-2012 650. But in the next quoted posts it shows where to look on the 2002-2012's.See the pictures below.

Justin, all you need is a water resistant on/off switch, some wire and a bit of soldering skills. I have one somewhere in the garage I made.

The switch needs to be ran somewhere you can get to with the bike still running. I made my wires long enough to reach up to the left small cargo box up front. Then snaked the wire down to where the connector is on the left side under the seats edge. I twisted the wire tips and soldered them and then used a file to make a square'ish tip that slides into the connector.

Or you can use a Paper Clip.

I think you have 2-5 seconds to shut the engine off and restart it before it dumps the codes. So if you're quick, while still running put it on center stand, shut the engine off, quickly pop the trunk latch but don't wait to open it yet, re start it, THEN open the seat and put the paper clip in the two right side female connectors.

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You are on a road trip so ordering a Dealer Mode switch is kind of out. But they are $19.99 on Ebay with free shipping.


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