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I need the help of the knowledgeable folks of this forum to help diagnose an F1 problem.

I changed the oil, gear and final drive fluids for the first time since acquiring my 2013 Burgman 650 before beginning this spring season. During my first ride, the F1 red warning light came on and the RPMs would shoot way up when I cranked the throttle. After a second or two, the RPMs dropped back to normal. I stopped and turned the bike off. When I restarted, the F1 warning light did NOT come back on, but the RPMs continued to shoot up and then come back down whenever I cranked the throttle.
 

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the stupid question must be asked, what type oil did you use? the "clutch " needs a non slippery oil (non energy conserving) Ignore this please
 

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Hard to diagnose the FI light now that you have turned the engine off and back on. The FI light comes on because the ECU got a reading from one of the sensors that was outside what it considers acceptable. When it turns the light on it sets a code to indicate which sensor caused the light to come on. Unfortunately when you turned the key off the code was lost. It will not be set again until the FI light comes back on. If it does then you will need to put the ECU in dealer mode to find out what the code is before turning the key off. The good news is that if the FI light is not coming back on then the ECU is not getting any out of range readings from any of the sensors.

The bad news is that does not help you with your high rpm issue. From the description you give my first guess would be a slipping clutch. As others have suggested that is most often caused by using the wrong type of oil. You need one that is approved for use with wet clutches. I would rule that out first before moving on to other things.
 

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You pointed me in the right direction. I am usually very careful about following directions and specifications, but in this case I blundered - perhaps a sign of age. The oil I used was NOT JASO MA compliant. Now I get to remove the tupperware (again), drain the oil and replace it with the correct version. Thanks for saving me a lot of time and frustration trying to figure this out on my own.
 

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erm, this may not be over. kinda one of them situations where bad news can get worse, like wifey is cheatin,,,, oooo nooooo, yeah,,, with your SISTER.

there's guys on here that can help, get advice before puttin any more oil in, may save you time and money
 

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This extra slippery wrong kind of oil thing is the only detail about oil I really have an opinion about.
The Burgman 650 has a wet clutch. Means that oil you put in the engine is shared to lube the clutch also. So it matters a great deal what kind of oil is used.
2 factors to look at here:

1- make sure the oil you use states that the service rating includes JASO MA or MA2. This is the specification in Japan for official motorcycle oils on bikes with a wet clutch.

2- make absolutely positive that any oil you choose to use DOES NOT indicate that it is "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving" on the container. These types of oil have extra extra slippery additives more than usual to enhance slipperiness and WILL CAUSE YOUR WET CLUTCH TO BECOME TRASHED over a relatively short time. Usually this is indicated in the lower outer ring of the API Service circle (or SAE circle by another name) located on the label. See pic attached here. Ignore the viscosity indicated in the photo since only what is in that lower part of the outer ring is what matters here. That lower outer ring must be blank/empty if the circle is present. Not all brands of oils have that circle so research carefully. All oils that are will indicate somewhere, in spec sheets if not on the label, if they are Energy or Resource Conserving or have the extra additives to make them so.

api-circle.jpg
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You may get lucky by dumping it and changing the filter, TWICE. This may flush out enough of the extra slippry stuff.

A few members have had to replace their clutch pack due to wrong oil use.
 

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Just to be clear. I wasn't saying you DID use the wrong oil. Just recommend you check it or at least know what kind you used just in case. But if you did use the bad stuff then do follow @Dave_J 's advice.

BTW- It's not a F1 light (as in a "F" with a numeral one after it) but a FI light (as in a "F" with the capitol letter "I" after it). This stands for Fault Indication. It is very much like the "Check Engine" light on your 4+ wheeled vehicles. Rather generic. That is why only getting the fault code as mentioned above is the only way to really tell what is at fault. Some, I've read, say it is an indicator for a problem with Fuel Injection system and can see that for some vehicles. But Fault Indicator is much more reasonable.
 

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The FI light can mean the Fuel system has an issue if a sensor sees something out of its range. But there are so many sensors throughout the whole bike that can set a FI light.
There is NO sensors for the oil, final drive or clutch.
 

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And getting the fault code is another reason you want the emergency seat release installed
 
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This has nothing to do with the OP's problem but something I have wondered about and not had a opportunity to test.

I wonder is you kill the engine with the kill switch but do not turn off the key will the FI light go off and the code be lost. Anyone ever test that.
 

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Just an FYI, when I had my Goldwing I used diesel motor oil. Rotella, Castrol, etc. That stuff does not have "Energy Efficient" on the label.
 

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And that's one of the few that still doesn't. If you look on the label of Shell Rotella T6 you see JASO MA listed. I have a few bottles of it in my garage now ready for the next oil change.
 

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This has nothing to do with the OP's problem but something I have wondered about and not had a opportunity to test.

I wonder is you kill the engine with the kill switch but do not turn off the key will the FI light go off and the code be lost. Anyone ever test that.
if the mnemonics of the ecu are available that should be an easy answer, maybe suzuki would provide them on a 10 year old bike ?
 

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if the mnemonics of the ecu are available that should be an easy answer, maybe suzuki would provide them on a 10 year old bike ?
You may get lucky by dumping it and changing the filter, TWICE. This may flush out enough of the extra slippry stuff.

A few members have had to replace their clutch pack due to wrong oil use.
OH NO!! I have the same problem. 2016 AN650. 10w40 doesn’t have any of the energy stuff on the label. But I have done the full synthetic. I have put about 13K with this juice. What is the clutch pack? I just saw something in a manual from a 2005 that says not to sit and rev (3.5 to 4K) more than a few seconds. Found this too late.
 

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I need the help of the knowledgeable folks of this forum to help diagnose an F1 problem.

I changed the oil, gear and final drive fluids for the first time since acquiring my 2013 Burgman 650 before beginning this spring season. During my first ride, the F1 red warning light came on and the RPMs would shoot way up when I cranked the throttle. After a second or two, the RPMs dropped back to normal. I stopped and turned the bike off. When I restarted, the F1 warning light did NOT come back on, but the RPMs continued to shoot up and then come back down whenever I cranked the throttle.
My 2016 AN 650 developed the same problem this week. I’ve been using Mobile 1full synthetic. None of that energy saving stuff on the label. Have you found any answers?
 

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The front pulley of the CVT is ALWAYS directly connected to the engine, so is always spinning, and the rear pulley of the CVT is also ALWAYS direct connected to the clutch at the other end, and only the belt between the pulleys making that connection between the pulleys... also ALWAYS so that both pulleys are always spinning. The clutch is the only part that is not always engaged with the final drive. The input side of the clutch is ALWAYS spinning but the output side is not at low rpm. The clutch engagement is controlled by rpm. When rpm goes over 1800 the clutch engages. When rpm drops to around 1500 the clutch dis-engages. If you pretend to be a Harley rider and rev your engine up past 1800 rpm then you put excess strain on the clutch pads (clutch pack would likely be the clutch plates and pads assembly... big round cover on the left side just in front of the final drive swing arm). If you do this often or hold it there for very long you will damage the clutch and possibly other mechanical bits. This is not a muscle bike to be used for showing off engine sounds at high revs. There is no clutch lever to keep the clutch dis-engaged and no neutral gear.

BTW- I just did a Google search on the Mobile 1 bottle label and all samples that came up showed that this oil IS "Resource Conserving" in the bottom outer ring of the API service circle. I know that the graphic I posted above only shows Energy Conserving, but Resource Conserving is really the same thing, at least as far as the problems that will happen. That's why I mentioned it. If you have a bottle of Mobile 1 that does in fact show nothing, totally blank, nada in that lower outer ring then you should be fine. I'd recheck just to be sure.
 

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My 2016 AN 650 developed the same problem this week. I’ve been using Mobile 1full synthetic. None of that energy saving stuff on the label. Have you found any answers?
Your not the first to report clutch slippage after using Mobil 1
 

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Over the years I remember about 4 members that used Car Classed Mobile 1 10W40 in their bikes and had clutch failures. They assumed the 10W40 part was OK.

The failure reports use to be in the Knowledge Base but it is gone, I think for good.

  • On the AN650 we must, I say again, MUST use JASO MA class oils, not car oils.
  • JASO MA and JASO MA2 are OK!
 
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