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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys and gals, so I have just returned home after a 3 hour wait and so forth for a tow truck after my 2007 Burgman Executive with 8000km on the clock (which I purchased 3 weeks ago) left me stranded at a service station, when the engine wouldn't start after refuelling, and eventually threw up an F1 warning.

Background info...

I was riding my scoot around the whole afternoon, taking in the sights and so forth. Went into the city some 30-40km away, did some shopping, visiting different shops and what not, with stops and starts here and there. No problems then on the 40km ride back home I decided at the last minute to stop by a service station and fill up with petrol even though I had enough to ride the last 30km home. So I fill up, with the scoot on the centre stand, then return to the bike with my invoice and try to start the scoot after inserting the key. No response, though all the usual dash lights were on, headlights on, tail lights, check... that's strange but I did a quick check, side stand up - yes, kill-switch not on - yes, still nothing, no response from the starter, I can hear a click in from the front tupperware and dash area every time I hit the start button so long as the kill switch has not been activated. If I flick the kill switch to ON then no click sound. Even so all the dash lights were lit up, so I assumed it isn't battery, headlights look a good colour. I checked all the main fuses, all good, ignition fuse, CVT fuse, main fuse... all ok.

Eventually after checking kill switch and cycling between off and on with that kill switch, I get the red F1 light flashing "off and on" and the "F1" display on, on the LCD below the speedo readout. I tried to work out how to decipher/access the code using a bit of wire in the plug with the black cap, by having my work assistant read burgmanUSA and then tell me by phone how to do it. She has no idea at all about motorcycles, so bless her she did so well.

I managed to get this code by counting the number and sequence of flashes: 4-8-6-1... I assume that counting the number and sequence of flashes is the right method to work out the code? There was no Cxx type of code, at all. When I did the jump the wire trick, all I got when I turned ignition key on, was the usual idiot lights come on, dash went through its cycle, then ABS light flashed a sequence or pattern which I counted 4 flashes then off for a long pause, then 8 flashes, followed by off of a long pause then 6 flashes pause, then 1 flash... after a pause the sequence repeats itself. I figured that this was the code referred to, since there was no other code. I have a Jetmax maxi scoot, and it also uses a special ECU red indicator light which will flash a sequence which needs to be counted then the number of flashes can be used to check in the owners manual. I assumed that this was something similar with the Burgman, mind that I was at a service station and depending on my assistant to read what she could find with my prompting her to read BurgmanUSA. Not an easy situation to be in.

I'm wondering if any one could tell me if what I have relayed is indeed a code, and then what this code means? As it was I was stranded at the service station for 3 hours working out how to deal with this crisis then finally with my assistants help, she was able to get a tow truck, so there I was waiting another hour for a tow truck... Keep in mind that this is mainland China, so getting a tow truck itself is not an easy task and even more so for a motorcycle, since motorcycles are just utilitarian forms of transport.

Any pointers on the code would be a help, even more if you or anyone can tell me what the code also means, and how to rectify it. Since I can't just get the bike to a Suzuki dealer, they don't sell these Burgmans here at regular dealers. Even though there is a proper Suzuki shop within 2 km of my home, they don't sell Burgmans there, as this was imported privately, so I am on my own with this.

Any help would be great fully received meanwhile I am reading the F1 threads to get my head around this.

Cheers
 

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According to the manual, if the FI indicator is blinking and the bike does not start then the ECM is not getting a signal from one of the following: crankshaft position sensor, tip over sensor, ignition for one of the cylinders, injectors for one of the cylinders, fuel pump relay, or ignition switch.

I don't know anything about counting the flashes to get the code. My manual doesn't mention it. If the ECM has been correctly put into dealer mode by jumpering the right wires in the plug, you should be seeing a C** code displayed on the dash. The ** will point you to the problem. For example a C12 indicates a crankshaft sensor problem and a C23 indicates a tip over sensor problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys for your responses. I was unaware that there would be a code starting Cxx when jumping or short circuiting the dealer analysing plug, as I was performing this operation though information provided to me over the phone while stranded at a service station. So to confirm, I managed to locate some electrical wire, and stripped a 2cm length of bare wire from a longer insulated section to use as my jumper. I then located a white square plug that had two wires entering it, an orange wire and a black with white stripe wire. There was a black rubber boot covering the white plug, and the plug is located on the left side of the riders section of the seat, where the main and CVT fuses are located in the left cut away down toward the seat hinge. I removed the rubber boot to expose the female connectors of the plug and inserted the ends of the wire into each of the two connectors, as far as I could tell. It seemed like the other two holes were without the metal female connectors. I'm certain the plug only had 4 connector holes. With the wire in place I turned on the ignition using the ignition key, then observed the dash display for anything unusual. Short circuiting the connectors produced a pattern sequence of flashes with the ABS light, which is what I counted. There was no Cxx code that I could see which now that I'm back at home reading this website and F1 related threads, should have been displayed on the LCD where the mileage would normally be displayed etc. No Cxx code. I might try this again later this morning (it's 5am here), with a paper clip now that I am home and the dead Burgman is in the garage.

I have since midnight had the battery tender connected to the Burgman battery just in case, though when in NZ back in March-June my K3 Burgman Exec. suffered a flat battery, which never caused any F1 code. Rather all the indications I had were the tell tale clicking sound when a battery doesn't have enough "juice" to crank a starter motor. Once the battery was jump started the K3 ran fine, depending on circumstances it would sometimes restart with the same battery though there were times it would not. A new Motobatt battery sorted that out.

Looking at the thread and the photos on viewtopic.php?p=365186#p365186 confirms to me that I was short circuiting the correct plug in the same location.
 

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If the plug only had 4 connector points then it was not the correct one. The correct one has 6 connector points. If you have the release catch on the plug pointed up the two pins you want to connect together are the two on the right end. On my 07, one of those has a black wire with a white stripe going to it and the other has a white wire with a red stripe going to it.

Two other wires lead to the plug but the dealer switch I have does not have male pins to do anything with those wires. One of those is an orange wire. I think you may have either used the wrong plug or if you got the right plug you jumpered the wrong two wires together.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One final thing to add is that I pulled the 15A low headlight fuse too while stranded with the dead burgman, since I figured I'd be having the ignition on and off a whole lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Buffalo said:
If the plug only had 4 connector points then it was not the correct one. The correct one has 6 connector points. If you have the release catch on the plug pointed up the two pins you want to connect together are the two on the right end. On my 07, one of those has a black wire with a white stripe going to it and the other has a white wire with a red stripe going to it.

Two other wires lead to the plug but the dealer switch I have does not have male pins to do anything with those wires. One of those is an orange wire. I think you may have either used the wrong plug or if you got the right plug you jumpered the wrong two wires together.
I have just been into the garage this minute and double checked, despite all my poking and prodding, I cannot find any other plug that resembles the 6 pin plug with a rubber boot. The one I can find is square, double layered with 4 pin holes, plus the black rubber boot, but it has only 2 wires leading into the plug and only 2 spade terminals or connectors within the plug pin holes within the plug housing. Most of the other plugs around the section of the wiring loom that can be accessed around the main and CVT fuses are either plugged into other plugs, or else there is one other white plug but that is single layered plug with only 2 connections and 2 wires into it and it doesn't have a protecting boot as the other square 4 pinned plug does. I may have to remove seat, battery, then the tray and assembly so that I can access this section of wiring loom to make sure there isn't a plug I cannot see. But thus far despite my best attempts and even sliding the two big rubber fuse holders from their respective grommets I can't see a bigger white plug with black rubber boot referred to.
I am wondering if there might be some variation in design schematics based on geographical location.
 

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THe Cxx code displays in the same location as you would see CHEC if you tried to start the bike with the kill switch off.

In order to see the Cxx code you have to crank the engine. The Cxx codes generally relate to ignition/timing/fuel delivery issues so you have to be trying to use those parts of the system to get the codes.

I do not know if having the headlight fuse out affects anything, I don't recall anything else tied into that circuit (there is a circuit diagram in the KB I'm sure, that may or may not be helpful. I'd put the fuse back in just to be relatively certain.

NOT ON A BURGMAN, but on another fuel injected Suzuki bike, I had a similar issue that turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor. I think Buffalo suggested a number of possibilities but to narrow things down, I would really help to know what the ECU thinks it's missing.
 

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Buffalo has the same year and model bike that you have, I would think it would be pretty similar in this area. But I've been fooled before :oops:
 

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use a paper clip or a piece of wire to get bike to display the code for you



the special tool connector is kind of hidden behind the main/cvt fuses... just look closer... it's there on the left side of the scoot.
you can check the diagrams / codes page on my burgman center if you don't have a service manual.

good luck...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well folks, firstly many thanks for all the replies and advice. Much appreciated! :thumbup:

I've stumbled across what the problem was, a disconnected plug. After riding my other maxi a Jetmax scoot, which feels like a wipper-snapper bit like a Tmax in comparison to the big Burg... I got home this afternoon, and decided that was it, I needed to remove the battery then the tray in which the battery sits etc just so I could access the wiring in behind the main and CVT fuses, down under the seat on the left side toward the seat hinge. I know I am talking to most who know the location, but one never knows who might come searching for a similar problem in the future. Here I am, in Eastern China!

Anyway before I got really carried away with removing everything or what seems like everything bar the kitchen sink just to access said wiring, I decided to just undo one screw that is fixed midway on the left side of the "tray" and is to the left of the cut-away when one is looking at the two big fuse housings. By removing this screw I could gain some access since there is some give and take plus flex afforded with the plastics and tupperware. This allowed me to explore, and with some effort and little LED torch I finally found the 6 pin diagnostic plug. It had fallen and was sitting down below the frame tube cross-member and between the tupperware and whatever else sits down in the nether regions. So I found the plug, yippee for me! it wasn't easy mind, as I was more focused on looking inward rather than downward. Just beforehand though I'd already undone the battery cover, and was about to get the battery terminals undone when I thought to remove that single screw first. So I set about inserting the battery cover back in position when the black plug that sits into and on the cover came apart without any effort. That was odd. So I plugged it back together. This is the plug that sits alongside the 2 hefty terminals on top the battery cover, with the rubber boots on top. Not sure what the purpose is of the black plug and the 2 wires on each side of it, but 2 black wires then ascend into the plastics proximal to the aforementioned 2 hefty terminals.

Since I had been successful in finding the 6 pin plug, I just wanted to button everything back up before moving onto the next stage. Finding the black plug unplugged was a surprise. So with that accomplished, I decided to recheck the error code. Ignition switch on, hit starter and the f%#@*^n scoot fired right on up.

Switched er off, went through the same procedure as earlier, kill switch activated (ON) let er CHEC then after a few seconds, flicked kill switch to OFF and bugger me, no [email protected]#^*n-1 (F1) light flashing or F1 error displayed.

So inadvertently I'd found the problem as disconnected plug. I can only assume the plug was disturbed enough over the weekend, when I had moved the battery cover enough so I could access the positive terminals to check power to the cigarette lighter which is not working. I didn't attempt to unplug anything top side of the cover, so it must have worked loose, but still had enough of a connection through Sunday and then all the riding I did Monday until I stopped for petrol Monday night. Weird though as I didn't do anything under the seat at the time, only several hours before to stow a few items.

Weird!
 

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I would suggest that the plug was only partially closed from new. The bike may have been assembled on a friday! :roll:
 

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That plug is on the wires that connect the starter button to the starter solenoid. With a loose connection you would not be energizing the starter solenoid so you would get no current to the starter to crank the engine.

What I don't understand is why you ended up with a FI indicator. Nothing in the manual indicates that wire being loose would cause any faults that would set an error indicator. Only thing I can see that is close is the ECM may have though there was an ignition switch circuit malfunction which would have set a C42 code. :scratch:
 

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I have a C22 error code being displayed.
I think this indicates a faulty AP Sensor
but I can't find anything wrong with the AP sensor.
However, I can't get rid of the FI error.

The bike has stopped before with this error and
then started again after waiting a week. Not sure what
happened to allow it to start again. I did remove the battery
and installed a new one.

How safe is it to ride the bike with a flashing FI error?
 

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I have a C22 error code being displayed.
I think this indicates a faulty AP Sensor
but I can't find anything wrong with the AP sensor.
However, I can't get rid of the FI error.

The bike has stopped before with this error and
then started again after waiting a week. Not sure what
happened to allow it to start again. I did remove the battery
and installed a new one.

How safe is it to ride the bike with a flashing FI error?
Could be the sensor, wiring, or engine controller. I'd lean toward a wiring problem. So you've pulled the front clip off and physically/visually checked the sensor, wires, and connector? It's mounted to the front brace just forward of the e-brake. It looks just like the MAP sensor but without a hose attached.

Anything else we should know about the bike? Has it been in an accident before?

Generally a flashing means the problem is active.
 

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I have a C22 error code being displayed.
I think this indicates a faulty AP Sensor
but I can't find anything wrong with the AP sensor.
However, I can't get rid of the FI error.

The bike has stopped before with this error and
then started again after waiting a week. Not sure what
happened to allow it to start again. I did remove the battery
and installed a new one.

How safe is it to ride the bike with a flashing FI error?
If it is a C22 code then the PCM is going to go into a fail safe mode. What the pressure sensor does is tell the PCM that that you are riding at high altitude so that it can reduce the amount of fuel being delivered to the engine to compensate for the lower air pressure. Fail safe mode for a fault on this sensor is to default to a pressure reading of 760 mmHg which is basically standard pressure at sea level.

So what is going to happen when you are riding with this code set is that your engine might be running richer than it needs to and getting worse fuel mileage depending on where you are riding at. The 760 mmHG setting is normal for altitudes from 0 to 610 feet. Above that you will be running rich and it will get progressively worse the higher you go.

The other problem is that if the Fi indicator is already on you may not notice that something else has gone wrong because well the indicator is already on.

You can test the sensor but you will need a vacuum pump and a pressure gauge so that you can check output voltage at various pressure levels.
 

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Heres the fix for the f1 or c23 error code

You need to locate the tip over sensor and unplug it.now go the the store and purchase 150 ohms resistors.now place them into the plug you unplugged form the tip over sensor.there should be three metal holes.put on end of the resistor on the left the other end into the middle and get another resistor and put it in the middle and the left hole.there you go text me for pictures.this WILL disable the tip over sensor so don't fall over.682-221-9782

WhipLash Custom Hot Rods and Choppers
 

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Heres the fix for the f1 or c23 error code

You need to locate the tip over sensor and unplug it.now go the the store and purchase 150 ohms resistors.now place them into the plug you unplugged form the tip over sensor.there should be three metal holes.put on end of the resistor on the left the other end into the middle and get another resistor and put it in the middle and the left hole.there you go text me for pictures.this WILL disable the tip over sensor so don't fall over.682-221-9782

WhipLash Custom Hot Rods and Choppers
 

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You need to locate the tip over sensor and unplug it.now go the the store and purchase 150 ohms resistors.now place them into the plug you unplugged form the tip over sensor.there should be three metal holes.put on end of the resistor on the left the other end into the middle and get another resistor and put it in the middle and the left hole.there you go text me for pictures.this WILL disable the tip over sensor so don't fall over.682-221-9782

WhipLash Custom Hot Rods and Choppers
If he had a C23 code this would be relevant. He has a C22 code which indicates an air pressure sensor problem not a tip over sensor problem.

Be that as it may, disabling the tip over sensor would be a risky move. If I had a bad sensor I would just replace it with a good one not plug in resistors to trick the PCM into thinking one was there.
 

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Yes, it is a C22 error indicating a problem with the air pressure sensor.

I replaced the air pressure sensor, but have yet to correct the flashing FI warning.

I do not get the kind of fuel mileage that others report.

I usually get about 38 mpg which may mean I am running a little rich.
 
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