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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Yesterday while driving home I felt a bump on the road and after few seconds my engine stop.
When I polled over i saw that the oil seal button is no longer there, what mean that all the oil spilled out.
After getting the burgman back home, I put a new oil bolt and fill with new oil but the engine wont start. Sounds like something stuck.

Does the burgman have some kind of protection from this kind of problem?
Do you think that the engine died?
What do you recommend in order for me to check it by myself?

Thank in advanced
Ran
 

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ugh, not good news, but lets start with basics, what year is it, and does the engine turn and just not fire, or does it not turn
 

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20 seconds without oil will destroy the shells on the big ends. If it dropped all the oil and you kept riding which your description suggests it is likely terminal. You could try turning the crank by hand with a socket on the crank bolt.
 

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Jeez. Everytime i read a b400 dying i feel the knife cutting me a bit more

And mikey... Ugh not good news. you had to post it twice to poke him more hahaha

Curious about this @maccecht do you mean the crankshaft arm/cvt/variotor or is there another bolt?

No oil inside is pretty much not good. But maybe compression was lost and hence it shut down?
 

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You Guys Crack Me Up !
You Guys Crack Me Up !
 
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20 seconds without oil will destroy the shells on the big ends. If it dropped all the oil and you kept riding which your description suggests it is likely terminal. You could try turning the crank by hand with a socket on the crank bolt.
ok, uh, which is the big end ,,,, swmbo wants to know,,,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Let's hope for the best to. I will try to turning it and then we'll see.
The year is 2013 with 90,000 km. (56,000 miles)
I don't feel that it's turning or something happens when I try to start it.
I guess it will require to open and check.
Thank you guys for the fast response.
Any other thoughts, ideas will be great.
 

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if it doesn't move the engine, it will just go click one time. if the engine turns it will make turny noises till you quit trying or the battery dies. if you are not at least that familiar with an internal combustion engine, perhaps getting a friend to help would be good before proceeding any further
 

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If ypu get clicking sound when you pull the brake handle and press the button thats the starter relay. The lights should turn off when this happens. If you hear cranking thats the starter. If you dont have cranking then turn the engine manually to see if it moves. Otherwise battery and starter is next to check
 

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You should be able to turn it over using the bolt on the CVT. Remove the spark plug first to make life easy. You could also pour kerrosene/parrafin in the filler point and as it drains and strain it through a stocking or something similar to catch any metal flakes. Any bronze coloured metal flakes means your shells on the big end have failed. If the crank is ok the engine might me saved. Either way it's a strip and visual inspection
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you guys, it's very helpful.
I will update in the next couple days after trying what you have suggested.
 

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sorta on the subject,,, I was thinking (don't worry , swmbo had a fire extinguisher pointed at my head) since the 400 does have engine braking down to just below 10 mph (or some of them kilometer things) doesn't that mean the engine and drive train are connected down to that speed and as such, if you are riding along at 25-30 mph and the engine siezes, aren't you gonna have some seriously noticeable engine braking or will the clutch slip enough to keep you from going asp over tea kettle
 

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Even on the 400 the clutch will disengage if the engine stops turning or the CVT locks up. Just like the 650, on 400 the clutch disengages and freewheels at low speeds with the throttle closed. You just don't notice it as much because the CVT does not downshift to lower ratios as quickly as the ECVT in the 650 does.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If this is the case and the ctv or the clutch is locked, how to I release it?
 

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If you have tools remove the front and back cvt parts. Put on center stand. Turn the rear tire to see gears are smooth. Then use a socket/wrench to turn the front cvt axle bolt. I believe counter clockwise. correct @maccecht?

After youve ruled out the engine being stuck (spins) then youll have to inspect the clutch and see whats happening there. Inspect the belt as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I do have the tools and experience to remove the ctv and clutch (did it several times). I will do that in the next following days and update with the results.
Thanks again for the guide and help.
 

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sorta on the subject,,, I was thinking (don't worry , swmbo had a fire extinguisher pointed at my head) since the 400 does have engine braking down to just below 10 mph (or some of them kilometer things) doesn't that mean the engine and drive train are connected down to that speed and as such, if you are riding along at 25-30 mph and the engine siezes, aren't you gonna have some seriously noticeable engine braking or will the clutch slip enough to keep you from going asp over tea kettle
That’s a good question. With the clutch being on the secondary, it would seem a locked engine could lock the rear wheel momentarily, until the lack of secondary rotation caused the clutch to disengage. Would it then cycle repeat itself until the bike got below clutch engagement speed? With the engine locked, the system voltage would drop to 12.x volts. Would the primary try to immediately drop to low speed ratio causing slack in the belt , I don’t know. Lot of unknowns. Hope I don’t test it.
 

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Some quick term of automotive:

  • Does not crank. This means the engine will NOT turn at all. It is locked solid. It does not mean it turns over but does not fire up.
  • Does NOT fire up. This means the engine will turn over but will not start.
These two are offten used as if they were the same but they are not.
 

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That’s a good question. With the clutch being on the secondary, it would seem a locked engine could lock the rear wheel momentarily, until the lack of secondary rotation caused the clutch to disengage. Would it then cycle repeat itself until the bike got below clutch engagement speed? I don’t know. Hope I don’t test it.
If he was doing 50Kph and felt a large bump I'd say that was when his locked up engine got to that RPM where the clutch disengaged and the bike coasted to a stop. Do not know how harsh that lockup is on a Burgman 400.
 
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