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Left for a Trip Wed the 30 of april . Things were Going Just Fine The first Hour. Looked Down And Noticed My Engine Rpm Was Running Higher Than Normal. I Have 41,000 Miles on It. Rpm At 60 mph about4700 I Rolled It On. Engine Rpm Spiked To 7000 but gained. Little. Speed So I Went in manual Mode And Then Pushed the up button And went Into 6th. When in manual mode every Thing Works Fine and i get no slippage I Get know rpm Spikes When in 6th or Over Drive. What Ever you Want To Call it Come To A hill I would Lug It A Little. Bit. And. Then Roll It On Trying to get slippage . I only Get The Slippage Or High Rpm in Auto mode. Taking off from a stop light if. You roll it on its a dog wont take a harley anymore. I have to much slippage I don't think it is the clutch if it were it should of slipped in manual mode Do you Think It Might Be. A sensor . I have looked all over the forum on this problem And could find one like this. Thanks again. Merle
 

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Does starting out from a stop change from D to Manual 1st to Power?
 

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If it is not slipping in manual mode then it is not slipping in auto mode. Manual mode is nothing except fixed ratio points on the scale of available ratios for the CVT pulleys the ECM can choose from in auto mode. What you are experiencing is the ECM thinking that the load on the engine requires a lower gear ratio so it is down shifting the CVT. I would be more inclined to think that there is a problem in the engine than in the CVT.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Problem in rpm

Thanks to all. Buffaol what you said makes sense to me. Do i replace the ecm
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Buffalo. I have a shop manual there is a cvt control module would it be that or the ecm engine seems to run fine. Thanks. Merle
 

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Put the bike into Dealer Mode and see if it codes anything on the instrument panel for you, it sounds like you have a sensor problem that is causing your CVT issues.
There is a small plug with a rubber cover under the main fuse on the left side of the seat pan that accepts a plug with a toggle switch. this switch when activated while the ignition switch is in the on position but the bike is not running will activate any codes that the ECM has stored in it, these will be displayed on your instrument panel. You can buy this switch from you local Suzuki dealer or make on if you are handy with electronics. Do not disconnect your battery prior to this or you will lose any codes the ECM has stored in its memory

Greg
 

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Thanks to all. Buffaol what you said makes sense to me. Do i replace the ecm
I would not replace the ECM. I would try to identify what the issue is. It could be a faulty ECM but is more likely something else.

It is possible that you are getting a bad reading from one of the CVT sensors but normally if they are far enough out to cause the issues you are seeing the "FI" will be turned on to indicated a sensor reading out of range.

You also could be getting a bad reading from one of the sensors on the fuel injection or ignition. Again bad readings from those would normally cause the "FI" indicator to come on.

You said it does not pull well from a standstill now. Is that only in auto mode or is acceleration also weak when shifting through the gears in manual mode from a standstill. If it is weak both ways then that points more to an engine issue of some type.

When I broke a valve on one cylinder my bike acted like what you are describing but in an extreme way. It was running on only one cylinder so it didn't have much power. The ECM raised the ratio so I was running 6,000 to 7,000 rpm at 60 mph. Of course it didn't idle very well either and accelerated slowly. None of that caused the "FI" indicator to light though as the things the ECM monitors with sensors were all functioning within range.

I don't think you have an issue that extreme but you could have something like an injector not functioning well or a weak fuel pump or valves that have closed up clearance so much that they are leaking. Have you ever had the valve clearance checked. You might want to run a compression test and a cylinder leak down test.

Of course it could be something as simple as spark plugs that need changing or a weak coil. Hard to say without doing some testing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you all for the info i will have to dig into this further . Thanks buffalo i will take your advice and run with it. And thanks to all who gave me advice. Merle
 

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Remember, the ECM (and for us with earlier models, the separate CVT controller) are purely electronic units which will have two major failure modes: (1) infant-mortality failures very early in the life of the bike, and (2) failures due to overvoltage from failed regulators and other external badness. After the infant-mortality period, properly designed and manufactured electronic components generally last almost forever if they aren't abused from without.

Always assume it's a problem with something electromechanical first, i.e. the sensors. Or possibly operator error ;-)
 
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