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I just purchases my Burgee 650 last week and noticed there is considerable engine breaking. My father who has riden for many years came over to ride it and he found the same thing. I have called Suzuki, who referred me to my dealer, and I was told there is nothing they or I can do about this problem. I have read many of the discussions on here to find a solution and have noticed some say to "up" the idle. My dealer said this is not possible. How do I up the idle and doesn't make the engine "Rev" when sitting at a traffic light? Thanks for all your help!

Burgeebandit
 

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I did a quick search on "idle adjustment" & came up with this thread:

http://burgmanusa.com/forums/viewtopic. ... adjustment

It discusses this very issue and has a good description of the procedure to adjust it for you.

I did the same thing and my AN650K3 runs soooo much better now! The idle has definitly smoothed out, the engine braking is still there (I'm not sure that you can ever completely eliminate it, nor, once used to it, that you would want to) but much reduced, it idles much smoother, & the throttle doesn't seem as touchy as it used to (this may just be me getting more familiar with the bike, however). An added side benefit is that the gear rattle from the final drive (described by some as a "deiseling" sound) is very much reduced. This gear rattling at idle is a normal sound for 650's due to the design of the final drive system & is not a problem either occuring or pending.

Hope this helps!

PS: Be sure to read through the whole thread as there some other tips discussed that may be usefull!

And BTW, WELCOME! & congrats on the new Burgie!
 

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Just ride it. You'll learn to LOVE that engine braking.

Steve

Gear up!
 

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Exactly, a feature :)

When finessed, the throttle braking is just great for care free cornering.
The trick is get out of the motorcycle habit of chopping the throttle, as in when shifting etc.

You EASE it off, and on again SMOOTHLY, and eigth of an inch at a time, or less!

You can just concentrate on picking your line, keeping your head up and looking around the corner where you are going, and not have to worry about slowing or accelerating, or clutching or shifting, or any of that stuff.

It's all done for you automatically. :wink:
 

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burgeebandit said:
...I have read many of the discussions on here to find a solution and have noticed some say to "up" the idle.
If the idle is too low, below 1100RPM, then raising it to around 1200 (1300 max) may help.

But if it's already idling at 1100+ then it's just a matter of getting used to the difference between a clutched motorcycle and the unclutched Burgman 650.

As mentioned above, it's a matter of rolling on and off the throttle smoothly, and not "chopping" it off when approaching a stop or slowing. It requires some new habits to plan everything well in advance and be always smoooooooooth on the controls, but after a while it becomes second nature.

I'm at the point now where I often thumb it into Power mode when slowing, to get even more engine braking.

Hope this helped.
 

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Do not try to fix it. It's like the location of the rear brake lever, not what you are used to, but that does not constitute a problem.

Use your skills as a motorcyclist, and a person sensitive to the mechanical nature of things, to understand the engine braking and to use it elegantly.
 

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I have actually left my idle low (1k) to enhance said feature.
 

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It's a feature -- and a very handy one. Kind of like a weak rear brake with anti-lock (unless you add rear brake, it won't completely stop the wheel).

I'm used to some engine braking from having ridden motorcycles for years -- but the 650 by design does it much more effectively. Essentially, it's like doing a fast set of downshifts as you let the engine drag your speed down, every single time you decelerate (instead of whenever you think to do it).

If I had to guess, I'd say that most of the folks who are uncomfortable with it either are first-time riders or moved up from other scooters with purely mechanical clutches/variator systems lacking this feature. That or riders with experience on older shaft-drive bikes having odd handling characteristcs under trailing throttle.

Rusty
Blue AN650K5 in Ogden, UT
 

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Engine Breaking

Think Rusty hit it on the head, My last bike was a motor cycle and it took me all but 15 min to get use to the Berger King and feel right at home. When I ride with the group of motor cycles i ride with we ride in tight formation and have to break a lot faster than when I ride alone so I use both breaks a lot but by myself I let the engine breaking do the work and use my breaks minimal, the breaks should last a very long time I hope. To me the Burgman AN650K5 is the best scoot and one of the best bikes that I have ever had the pleasure to ride..............walterb :?
 

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When I did my 600 mile service, I up'd the idle to 1200 as recommended by many here. It definately eliminated the gear rattle from the final drive, but the engine breaking seems to have increased rather than decrease. I'm not complaining, I like the engine breaking but from what I read in the forum, it should be the opposite. Should I just leave it alone or what?
 

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Grasshopper. Engine braking slows you down. Engine breaking stops you in your tracks.


Wisdom from the old philosopher.

HTH,
 

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Engine breaking stops you in your tracks.
You are right Master. If engine breaks, it WILL stop me in my tracks.

Now, how about an answer to my question?
 

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Buzz,

I'd leave it be. 1200 is right on the money. I think your perception of increased engine breaking is off. Most of us have noticed a decrease in engine breaking when upping the idle. Whatever. Getting reduced gear rattle at idle is a nice plus. I think they dropped my idle down a tad at the last service - I've been meaning to nudge it back up.
 
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