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Emergency seat latch release added - 2013 B650

6K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  NewNC_Rider 
#1 ·
Took a little time this morning to add the emergency seat latch release to my 2013 Burgman 650.
From what I've seen of earlier models and the B400 the latch bracket is different and less accessible to breaking into and releasing the latch without simply using a crow bar to break the latch loop from the seat. There is a heavy cover over and around the latch that extends to the frame on each side around the latch release cable. You can see it in the photos I've attached.

I used about 24 inches of steel cable and a couple of cable crimp ferrules to make my emergency release.

*****
BTW- for those who have the back rest and don't know how to get that apart:
1- There is a large tab at the top of the back rest frame that fits into the top center of the pad. DO NOT SIMPLY PULL ON THE TOP OR YOU WILL BREAK THE HOLDER FOR THAT TAB! There are 2 pins on the back near the bottom of the pad that press fit into grommets. Pull forward on the bottom of the back rest pad to release these pins from the grommets. DON'T pull very far but just enough to feel the pins pull out of the grommets. Then lift the pad up and forward (toward the front of the scoot) to lift off the large tab at the top.
2- There are 2 hex socket bolts, one on each side of the plastic panel that covers the seat latch and fills in under the back rest pad. Remove those. There are also 2 plastic rivets at the top of this same panel that need to be removed. I use a cross point (Phillips) screw driver to first push in the center pin of the rivet and then it can be pulled out. Then remove that plastic panel.
3- The back plastic cover is next and I removed that to make it easier to get at things for this farkle. Look at the frame that the back rest pad was attached to and find the 4 screws that hold the back cover in place. Remove those being careful not to drop them down inside. There are 2 latch hook/tabs on each side of the bottom edge of this cover that you need to be careful about releasing as you lift the cover off angling to the back as well as 2 more along the back bottom edge. Then remove this cover.
4- I also removed the trim plastic that fit around the back cover just to see how that removes for when I replace my back rest with a luggage rack/top case plate. There are 2 latch hook/tabs on each side of the outer edge of this same as the back cover and also 3 across the back edge. There is also a pin in the center that fits into a grommet that you must lift the trim plastic straight up to release.
5- At this point you will see the 3 bolts that hold the back rest frame on the scoot. Those same 3 locations are used to mount the Givi and also the Suzuki top case bases. I did not remove this frame since I was now able to get to everything I needed for this farkle. But good to know about it for the top case farkle later on.
*****

Back to the subject of this post.
The cable I used was just a bit larger diameter than it needed to be, I guess, and it just barely fit through the slot that the factory seat latch release cable fit through. Looking at the latch I could see the slotted stud used to release the latch with the factory cable running through the slot and a cotter pin through the end to hold the cable in the slot. There was enough space in the slot with the factory cable in there to allow another cable to fit through. In my photo you can see I used a skinny long nose pliers to assist getting the cable fed through the slot. I used those to push my cable under the factory cable to loop around and back since I wanted my cable to be looped around the bottom of the slotted stud. I pulled enough back up through the opening in the latch housing to put the ferrule over the ends to make the loop and crimped the ferrule with vise grip pliers. I set the vise grips to crimp a little at first and then repeated tightening the vise grips each time. Then did the same to the other half of the ferrule (since there are 2 sides to it).

Then I made a smaller loop just big enough for a finger pull in the other end of my cable and crimped on the other ferrule for that loop.

When I was done with that I fed the finger loop end and the rest of the cable back under the latch bracket and down beside and outside the storage box same as many here have done. (I leave you to imaging what side or where exactly that is :grin )

When I finished I found that the finger pull loop on the end of my cable does NOT extend below the side plastic so you cannot see it by looking unless you get your head under the scooter and also know exactly where to look. :grin
But I know where it is and can find it easily.

I will say it works perfectly as expected. I don't expect any problems with the factory latch release cable rusting or breaking on such a relatively "new" scooter but now I have no worries when or if it does and I also have an alternate way to release the seat latch. To add to that I also don't have any worries should I inadvertently have an "old man moment" and somehow leave my key in the under seat storage and latch the seat closed! Actually, that would be more likely for me in the near future than having the cable break IMO. But stranger things have happened. And I do also have a spare key hidden elsewhere on the scooter... some place.

I've only included a few photos of the latch and threading the cable at the latch here since that is more what everyone wants to know. Where you put the other end of your cable and what you may loop it onto is entirely open to what you want to do.

Hope this helps anyone else with a 2013 or newer Burgman 650 wondering how to do this mod.
 

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#2 ·
I did mine today. I had an issue with the lock NOT popping open when I turned the key. It would only open when I simultaneously turn the key and pull on the seat. I figured that was the first sign of it totally going out. So thanks to you guys I'm now prepared if and when it does go out. I did add a little WD 40 too. That seemed to help.
 
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#3 ·
WD40 is not a real lube. Water Displacemet #40.

#38 was good on pancakes and waffles.
#39 made glass out of metal.
#41 was developed in a little area around Roswell NM ad made things invisible.
#42 made it glow in the dark and the DOE would spazz out when you went past a radiation detector.
 
#4 ·
BTW- this post is for the 2013 and newer since there is a bit of difference compared with the prior model years and I though it would be helpful to have some info on the newer model years. There are a number of other threads with photos (some of them) on doing this with the earlier model years and also the B400.
 
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#5 ·
I finally got around to putting the cable on. It took longer to take everything apart than putting on the cable. I didn't want to break anything. After giving it some thought, this is how I did mine. The loop hides under the seat when it's down. All you have to do is stick your finger up under the seat and pull on the cable.
Tire Automotive tire Alloy wheel Vehicle Automotive exterior
 
#8 ·
If you'll read past posts, mainly about the pre-2013 models of the 650, there is an issue that happens over a long time. Water can get into the cable that runs from the ignition back to the rear of the seat and sits in the lowest point of the route that cable takes along the frame. That lowest point is just on the right side near the rear of the step through hump. If water sits in the cable for a long time it will rust the cable inside the sheath and possible cause the cable to break. Like I mentioned, older Burgman scooters have had this problem. Not a lot of them, but some. This mod ensures there is a way to release the latch on the seat. I really don't expect the cable on my Burgman 650 to rust through for many years yet. But if it does I'll have this already installed.

... Oh, and also just in case the keys do get locked in the storage box, which has also happened to some riders. 😃
 
#11 ·
I've only included a few photos of the latch and threading the cable at the latch here since that is more what everyone wants to know. Where you put the other end of your cable and what you may loop it onto is entirely open to what you want to do.

Hope this helps anyone else with a 2013 or newer Burgman 650 wondering how to do this mod.
I cannot tell from your photos how you routed your cable? I have a 2015 and after investigating routing options that keep cable 100% hidden, I gave up and put it back together. Where do you hide your cable?
 
#12 ·
That was the point... it's a secret 😁

But there are plenty of options that will keep it hidden. I will say that I put a finger loop on the end and that sits up behind the plastic just at the bottom of the side and sits over a tab in the plastic to keep it in place. I also did not leave it sticking up out of the latch like that last photo shows but fished it back down under the plastic. It just hangs down there other than the end being on that tab. I can reach up from under to get it. It should easily fit down either side over the wheel well, which ever side is easiest for you. Some who have done this mod simply had a shorter length to the cable and laid it along the top edge of the storage box so the seat covered it but still easy to reach when needed. I didn't want it that easy to get to. You should be able to feel up under the plastic to see where is easy for you to put the end.

So there... now I blew half my secret place! :eek: Forget I told you all that. It didn't happen. I didn't say anything here. It's still a secret... right?
 
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