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Discussion Starter #1
After a lot of research I finally bit the bullet and installed a WOLO Bad Boy horn, added a new power outlet for my Garmin GPS, LED courtesy lights in the cockpit with wiring available to add additional safety lights via a new wiring block extended to the front end under the dash tupperware, so picking up power for accessories will be easier in the future. The key was in the research since I didn't do anything that someone else hasn't already done. I just chose what I considered to be the best install that will give me trouble free use down the road, and modified it only slightly for my needs.

I extended a 12 guage hot and ground from the battery routed through the engine compartment being careful to wire tie it all down and out of the way, avoiding sharp edges. Installed a fused 8 circuit block behind the ignition in an empty area and also placed an 8 lug ground block next to it. Power problem solved for all time now.

Installed the Bad Boy horn in the left top glove box (after cutting the end off the box to let the horn have a free line of sight by the front tire. This left room in the glove box to add the horn relay and the small Renegade amp that provides power to the speakers mounted near the mirrors. The music is provided with one of the tiny IPods that is velcroed to the dash. Horn operates with the factory button and is snug, dry, and loud as hell. I sacrificed that glove box because the cheap door hinge was broken by an errant elbow last summer and I had glued it shut. Now the door is reglued but accessible if the need should arise, but the equipment in the box does not require any user input. Amp runs through the ignition as does the new power adaptor which is mounted in the lower box with room to plug things into it. I'm still amazed that Suzuki put the factory power source in that box so close to the door that it's almost unusable. It must have been an afterthought since they really did get so many things right on this bike.

I am using a suction cup mount on the windshield for the Garmin 50LM. I attached the wire to the top edge of the dash with self-stick clear tiny hooks that hold the wire secure and ran the wire into the dash at the rubber gasket that is at the joint of rear view mirrors and fairing. I'm concerned about the longevity of the suction cup to the windshield but have the GPS teathered for the time being. This is a perfect line of sight install point for the GPS so I hope it works out.

Next little project will be a total change of fluids and filters to get ready for long distance riding with some additional safety lighting on Givi boxes and driving lights on the front after that.

Today's temps were in the 50's and I got 100 country miles on, honking at every cow along the way with a grin on my face. Tomorrow it snows a little so the weather is typical for Missouri. Spring is on the way !!!
 

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It sounds like you did your homework prior to the install. :thumbup:

A word of warning on the suction GPS mount: I did too, but the last of many times it fell off, the GPS landed screen down on one of the large crosshead screws on the dash, breaking the GPS screen.
I got a cheep upgrade to a Zumo that way, but I sold it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Erik...
Every time I ride with that suction mount I feel uneasy because I know that it is just a question of time before I pick the GPS off the ground and it'll be dead. Can you recommend a mounting method that allows the unit to be mounted in the center above the dash and does not require that I use screws?

Thanks for sending me a wake up call. I hate kicking myself in the ass for doing stupid things that I know better than doing.
 

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I just purchased my 2012 Burgman Exec and want to add Motolights for saftey. I have previously installed a set on my 2003 Vegas, but that was so different. The mechanical mount is simple enough to the caliper bolts. It's the wiring that's getting to me. Can anyone tell me how much of the body I have to remove? I hate to strip it all off, just to find out I didn't need to. Thanks for any help I can get.
 

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Well, on the Burgman 400 i only had to remove the few Tupperware,Windscreen and dash and Headlights to reach deep down into there to get to the Accessory wires, i'm real sure it's just about the same for the 650.

Elliott,
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ErikDK said:
You only have to take out the part that contains the outer glove compartments.
From LeDude


https://docs.google.com/document/d/14NO ... view?pli=1


This is absolutely correct. That one piece removed provides access to headlight bulb changes and space to wire additional farkles in the future. I ran a 12 guage hot and ground from the battery and terminated them on two separate blocks, one being a fused block for the hot wire so that I didn't have to run additional home runs to the battery. So far I've installed a stereo, driving lights (with relay), a WOLO air horn (with relay), and several white LED lights for the dash and have room for a lot more. Eight screws removes that one piece of tupperware and that's all you need to remove for access.

By the way, when wiring lights or horn or stereo PLEASE do yourself a favor and use a relay. They are simple to install, give you a clean look, and electrically it is the correct thing to do. Without a relay, especially when installing a high draw device such as a horn or a filament driving light, you run a risk of burning up factory wiring or switches. You might be able to get away without a relay but it's not the right way to do 12v wiring.
 
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