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I thought I would pass this along to those that might have an interest in taking off the rear wheel on their Burgman 650.

Taking the rear wheel off the 650 is a pretty straight forward affair; it just takes a bit of planning. I put together a little step by step tutorial along with a parts, tools and materials lists. I also took a number of pictures to help illustrate the steps and remove some of the mystery about this simple procedure. You can view / download it from the link below.

Burgman 650 Rear Wheel Removal Instructions

As far as tire, I decide to go with another Bridgestone TH01 since I can easily get about 15k miles out it. I keep the pressure at 42 psi and check it at least once a week.

I also decided to replace the rear valve stem with a 90 degree one.
 

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Here is a copy of the instructions as of 04/29/08, it seems that some had problems downloading/viewing the document. The dowladable version will always be the lastest version for now since posts cannot be edited/updated on the forum after the 1 hour limit. I am using a free service to host the document for now, as such it has a 10 seconds delay before showing the link.

Burgman 650 Rear Wheel Removal

Removing the rear wheel off of the Burgman 650 is a simple endeavor which can be done very easily with a bit of planning.

Below is a parts, tools list and a step by step plan.
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Parts list: -- New parts

Depending on the condition and age of your scoot, you may need some or all of these parts. I prefer to have them on hand since I do most of the work myself.

--> 2 Rear wheel bearing. I decided to use an aftermarket two sided sealed bearing, an SKF in this instance. Size: 6204-2RS.
-- ($18.00)
--> 1 Dust seal. Suzuki OEM part. Size: 28-47-7 ($4.00) Part#..: (09285-28001)
--> 1 Cotter Pin (25 cents)

I waned to change the stem on my rear wheel with a 90 degree one to make it easier to check the tire pressure. This would be a one time investment, especially if you get a steel one. Install the stem facing towards the left side of the bike away from the disk brake.

-- 1 90 degree valve-stem ($4.00). 90 degree stem -- New stem installed

Parts total….: $22.00 - $25.00

-- 1 Rear Tire. Brigestone TH01 160 / 60 R14 ($108.00) or your favorite brand
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Tools list: -- Tools

--> A few pieces of 2x4/2x6 lumber to elevate the rear wheel
--> 3mm hex key
--> 8mm socket or wrench
--> 10mm socket or wrench
--> 12mm socket or wrench
--> 22mm socket or wrench
--> 24mm socket or wrench
--> Ratchet for your sockets
--> Pliers
--> Torque wrench
--> Small bungee cords
--> Plastic shim
--> Piece of tubing to use as a lever
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Lubes & Cleaners list: -- Lubes / Cleaners

--> Moly paste lube or equivalent high temp lube
--> Disk break cleaner
--> General degreaser
--> Rubbing alchool
--> Cleaning towels/paper towels
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Removal / Installation time: 30-60 minutes.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Elevate the rear wheel:

The rear wheel on the Burgman, while on the center stand, sits very close to the ground and getting the rear wheel off without removing the rear fender can be a very tedious affair if not impossible.

If you have the good fortune of owning a motorcycle lift/table then you know what to do. Otherwise you will need a few pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 to accomplish the elevation task.
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This is how I went about elevating the center stand:

--> Place a piece of wood on the floor in front of the rear wheel. It was a lot easier to use the engine to get the rear wheel
-- up on the wood than to try and push it. Give it a little bit of gas and the rear wheel does the job for you.
--> Put the side stand down and steady the bike.
--> Push down on the center stand to get an idea as to where you need to place the other supporting pieces of wood
--> Place the other pieces of wood on the floor next to the one with the rear wheel resting on it.
--> Now push down on the center stand and prop up the scoot, it shouldn’t take too much effort.
--> Check to make sure that the center stand legs rest firmly on the pieces of wood and can support the scoot.
--> Remove the middle piece, now you have a blank space where the rear wheel can fall into.

Ccenter stand elevated: 01-- 02
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Rear wheel removal steps:

--> Remove the final gear case cover on the left hand side of the scoot with an 8mm socket/wrench.
--> Disconnect the brake lock cable. Start by removing the 10mm lock nut and loosen the 3mm hex screw (counter clock wise).
-- Now undo the two 12mm supporting bolts and the brake lock assembly should come right off.
-- Suspend it using a small bungee cord.
--> Remove the cotter pin with a pair of pliers.
--> Loosen the brake caliper 12mm bolts.
--> Remove the rear axle nut using a 22mm socket/wrench on the left hand side, to hold it while you use a 24mm
-- socket/wrench on the right side. I use a piece of tubing as a lever / extension to loosen the axle nut by slipping
-- it over the ratchet’s handle. Place the nut and spacer aside.
--> Push the axle out halfway. Remove the collar / spacer between the swing arm and the wheel. There are two of
-- them. One has a lip and it goes up against the swing arm.
--> Pull the axle all the way out and the wheel should come loose.
--> Drop the wheel on to the ground.
--> Remove the rear wheel brake caliper and place a plastic shim between the brake pads. This way they won’t collapse
-- on you if you accidentally grab a handful of brakes.
--> Suspend the caliper with a small bungee cord.
--> Push the wheel out towards the rear fender and lean it slightly to the left to clear the fender.
--> Remove the inner wheel collar / spacer should fall out. It is a one long piece.

Rear wheel brake assembly: Rear wheel brake assembly -- Removed parts: Removed parts

Shim the caliper: 01 -- 02 -- Support the caliper: Support the caliper
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In between steps:

--> Now that you have the rear wheel off, spend a bit of time cleaning / degreasing the inside of the hub.
--> Clean all the parts that came off the rear wheel.
--> Check your wheel bearings for proper play; replace them if you feel any resistance.
--> Check your stem for cracks, replace it if necessary or do what I did, replace it with a 90 degree one.

If you have the skills and tools to mount the rear tire, get going, otherwise find a nice bike shop that will do it for you for a reasonable price.

--> Once you have the new tire mounted, use a disk brake / contact cleaner to clean the disk brake.
--> Clean the wheel with rubbing alcohol or your favorite cleaner.
--> Lube the rear hub driven gear joint on the wheel and the hub housing.
--> Lightly lube axle and the inside of the collars.

Rear hub gear joint -- Rear wheel hub gear -- Axle hole
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Rear wheel reassembly steps:

Reassembly is pretty much the reverse order of disassembly.

--> Start by inserting the left spacer, the big spacer into the final gear case.
--> Insert the axle and push it forward a bit.
--> Position the wheel under the scooter.
--> Place the brake caliper over the disk brake; try not to get any grease/dirt on the disk brake.
--> Remount the wheel, be patient and don’t try to force it. It will fall into place once you have the right alignment.
-- If the wheel feels too heavy, place a peace of wood under the tier to help support it while you find the right fit.
--> Push the axle forward to support the wheel.
--> Insert the spacer, collar, the one with the lip goes against the swing arm, and push the axle all the way through.
--> Install the washer and rear axle nut (24mm). Tighten the rear axle nut to the specified torque level (72.5 lb-ft)
--> Install the new cotter pin.
--> Tighten the brake caliper nuts to the specified torque (19.0 lb-ft)
--> Install the brake lock arm and cable (12mm nut), tighten to the specified torque (19.0 lb-ft).
--> Adjust the rear brake. Position the brake lever in position/notch one. Turn the adjuster bolt clockwise until it
-- stops, don’t over tighten it. Now tighten the (10mm) lock nut to the specified torque level (7.0 lb-ft).
--> Reinstall the final gear cover.
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That’s about it. You are done. Now take the scoot out for a spin and break in that new tire. Be careful for the first 50-100 miles as new tires can be a bit slippery.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Note: While I had the rear brake lock arm off, I noticed that there was some friction damage under the metal part of the housing against the rear swing arm. I placed a piece of adhesive foam tape between the swing arm and the cable housing to prevent any further damage.
 

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Thanks for this great informative post. I have a couple of questions for you if you can help..

I was effected by the dreaded bad rear bearing this weekend at the New Holland, PA rally. When I took off the rear wheel the inner race and all the balls from the bearing (exhaust side) just fell off (it was shredded and mangled). I noticed I was missing one of the spacers when taking apart the wheel. It's the long one where the outside changes diameter slightly. Honestly I don't remember ever seeing that piece when I pull off the wheel before. Could Suzuki have forgotten to put that piece in somehow causing my bearing failure? (I have since ordered that piece)

Also now that the inner race and balls are gone, the outer race of the bearing still lodged into the rear wheel. How do I remove it? Do I pry it out with a screwdriver? How do you normally remove a bearing from the wheel? Do you HAVE to take it to a machine shop to press it in?

Finally where can I find the 90 degree stem locally? NAPA? I'd like to install that.

Thanks.
-Tony

http://burgmanusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=30063&p=281543&hilit=bearing#p281543
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Tony,

It would really surprise me if you were missing the big inner spacer, then again anything is possible. When I took my rear wheel off I had to reach in and take that piece out, so you might want to double check and see if it is in fact missing or just stuck in there.

As for the bearings, I would suggest that you buy a new set of sealed bearings. You can use a simple tool like this one or similar to pull the bearings.

HF bearing puller

There are a number of ways to insert bearings, you can build your own insertion tool from a few parts, threaded rod, a few washers and a couple of nuts.

If you don't have a lot of experience pulling bearings and such, it might be prudent to have a seasoned mechanic do it for you.

If the old bearing body is stuck, you might have to use a cutting tool to cut a few notches in it to weaken it structurally thus making it easier to pull out.

There is a lot of good info online for this procedure, here is a link that shows how to do it if you have never done it.

http://www.dansmc.com/wheelbearing.htm

I bought my 90 degree valve stems from a local motorcycle shop, they were like $3.95 each. Make a few calls to see if any of the local stores stock them. If you can't find one, let me know and I will get one for you and drop it in the mail. I highly recommend this upgrade, it has made life so much easier for checking and inflating the tire.

Here is a link to a 45 degree one...: 45 degree stems
 

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Thanks Ledude very much for your informative post. I will be taking my tire off for replacement soon and this post is invaluable to me!!! :D I really appreciate it.
Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here is a new version of the Rear Wheel Removal Guide in a new format which hopefully will be easier to use and pirnt out.

This is going to replace the other document on the 4shared.com site as I will be phasing that account out.

Link to new document for..: DYI -- Burgman 650 Rear Wheel Removal Guide
 

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Used your instructions today. Made the job easy.. If only Suzuki manuals could be so well written.. My compliments and thanks
 

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You can save yourself a little trouble by removing the rear mud flap that holds the license plate. There are 2 pop rivets in the rear trim above it and 3 screws in the flap--- makes it a whole lot easier because the rear is now completely open and you don't have to jack the scooter up on wood blocks.
 

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WVPREZ said:
Used your instructions today. Made the job easy.. If only Suzuki manuals could be so well written.. My compliments and thanks
thanks, I am glad it proved to be of use to you.
 

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Re: DIY -- Burgman 650 Rear Wheel Removal Instructions

Just finished updaing the old document with an entire new set of pictures in a revised format.

DIY - Rear Wheel Removal / Insall.

Should have the accompanying video out in a day or two.
 

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I have Ledude's rear wheel removal instructions and a service manual. Taking rear off was OK, had my local shop replace the tire with a new Bridgestone TH-01RM. They did a really nice job. Problem came when trying to reinstall rear wheel. Got it mounted but it will not slide all the way back on. I am short about 16th of an inch. Just enough so the one spacer with the collar will not fit. Any suggestions on what to look at. I am mechanically challenged, but this forum and the manual have saved me a ton of money. I have a 2007 650 Executive. I did loosen the ABS sensor to give me more wiggle room, but that does not appear to help. Intend to pick this up again in the AM when there is more light in garage. Thanks gang!!!!!! :alien:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It could be that the wheel has not been seated properly or pushed all the way in... watch the accompanying video for reinstallintg the wheel.. it should go on very easily... use a piece of wood to elevate the wheel while you couple it back with the hub housing... Once in place make sure that it is seated properly and then push the axle through to hold it in place...the rest should just fall into place without any problems...

also double check the direction of the collar/spacers and make sure you have them in the right order...
 

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[attachment=0:1fui2r80]100_1222.JPG[/attachment:1fui2r80]

Not sure this picture thing is working. If it is, i still have the same problem. Wheel goes on gear side until about 1/16th of inch left to go. Won't go any further. Keeps the right hand spacer with collar from fitting in next to swingarm. Any suggestions. Could something have happened at dealership accidentally to keep wheel from fitting properly? :?
 

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Anyone else got any ideas on this one. Haven't heard back since Ledude. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #18
that shinny area between the hub and the wheel, is normal, it looks just like that on my standard 650... as long as the hub and the wheel are coupled together correctly, everything should fall back into place without any force..

make sure that you have inserted the inner spacer, the one that goes inside the hub correctly, as it is wider at one end ...

you can check this pic to see what I am talking about:

Rear wheel removed parts

I am not sure how often people visit the how-to sub-section.... you can post in the 650 area to get quicker feed-back...
 

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Appreciate it. That spacer is installed correctly. I just don't understand why we are having so much reouble with the swingarm side and getting that collared spacer in. If we had just a smidge more room we could get it in. Well, We will keep on trying. Thanks
 

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LeDude,

Thanks for the video! Your additions to this site have been terrific! All I needed for the job was to watch the video, walk out to the garage and go at it.
 
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