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Is it O.K to use the NGK CR8EK dual electode spark plug instead of the single CR8E plug? My mechanic only had the duals in stock. I am doing the 7500 mile service on my K3.
 

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I personally wouldn't and don't use anything in my scoots except what it exactly recommends using. I don't see why you couldn't use the plug just because it has dual electrodes. Maybe someone here knows for sure.
 

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I can't answer whether or not it would be OK or not. I can chime in with the thought that multiple electrode plugs have multiple opportunities to burn off a tip & ingest it into the valve(s), doing harm to the valve(s), the cam(s), the combustion chamber, the exhaust port, etc.
 

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I read an article way back when the old "SplitFire" plugs were popular that they were basically a waste of money. Unless the plug electrodes were made to exacting precision the spark will find the shortest gap to jump, so you end up only having a single spark anyway. The slight advantage came in when that one electrode got worn to the point that another electode was now shorter, then the spark would move to that electrode. The bottom line was that unless the electrodes all had IDENTICAL gaps, down to submicron levels, AND your coil could supply the current required to jump the multiple gaps, you're better off just going with a quality single electrode plug.
 

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and here I had just bought the Bosch 4 prong plugs for my Saturn SL2...
oh well, it's worth a shot.
 

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scooterman55 said:
Is it O.K to use the NGK CR8EK dual electode spark plug instead of the single CR8E plug? My mechanic only had the duals in stock. I am doing the 7500 mile service on my K3.
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I would be more concerned that the specific heat preformance (not heat range) be the same for the multi (side) electrode plug and the factory specified plug. Having said that, generally speaking multi electrode plugs are usually more expensive. I guess I just don't see the point.
 

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ABQ said:
and here I had just bought the Bosch 4 prong plugs for my Saturn SL2...
oh well, it's worth a shot.
Don't give up on them. I used a set for 100k miles in my Esteem. Couldn't ask for a better plug.
 

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As long as the plugs fit the engine (correct heat range, thread reach, electrode protrusion, etc) they should work okay, but for the reasons already given, I wouldn't want them. I don't believe they do any good to offset their additional cost.
You'll have to put your faith in your mechanic and the cross reference charts that the plug makers publish to decide if they plugs truly fit.
 

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Brewman wrote, "As long as the plugs fit the engine (correct heat range, thread reach, electrode protrusion, etc) they should work okay, but for the reasons already given, I wouldn't want them. I don't believe they do any good to offset their additional cost.
You'll have to put your faith in your mechanic and the cross reference charts that the plug makers publish to decide if they plugs truly fit."
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I generally agree with Brewman's statement except that heat range means just that, range. I once sold private branded plugs made by a major (good) company. The quality of our plugs was the same as those sold by the major. The difference was that we had a shorter list of plugs and though the heat performance was within the tolerances specified by the engine manufacturers, it was not always the same as the o.e. plug. We had some problems with engine performance and plug life as a result, ...not many problems but enough.
 

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BMW oilheads run MUCH better than stock with 2 electrode plugs - a very common upgrade.
On the Burger 650 I wouldn't know...does the plug application guide show it actually working? :?:
 

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jonniedee said:
BMW oilheads run MUCH better than stock with 2 electrode plugs - a very common upgrade.
On the Burger 650 I wouldn't know...does the plug application guide show it actually working? :?:
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Yes, some oilheads do seem to run better on dual electrode plugs and some run better on Autolite plugs. All oilheads run better when properly tuned. Some techs are more adept at tuning these engines with biiiiggg pistons.

I had one and never had the surging problem that a small percentage of oilhead owners experience. My R1100RT was serviced, except for routine service by Hebert BMW in Baton Rouge, LA which has a terrific service department.
 

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Exactly what model of BMW would an "oilhead" be? I don't believe I've ever heard of such a model or term. Is that a car or a bike?
 

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gunrun69 wrote, "Exactly what model of BMW would an "oilhead" be? I don't believe I've ever heard of such a model or term. Is that a car or a bike?"
_____________________________________________________________The oilhead "moniker" applies to all the 2-cylinder horizontally BMW m/c engines that have oil cooled upper cylinders. The earlier 2 cyl horizontally opposed twins, dating back to 1923 were called "airheads" as they were completely air cooled. The airheads were an offshoot from BMW aircraft engines.
 

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IronRanger said:
That's why I tune in here - more cool knowledge and terms I can throw around every day. :read2:
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Happy to help Kev, such as it is. <g>
 

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Dule Electrode Plugs

These are the same plugs that will be going in my bike before spring. There is nothing wrong with them they are the upgrade from the stock plug and i think they are Iridum and will last much longer.
 
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