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A couple of weeks ago i had an incident where the nut came off of my Variator - Unfortunately i didn't stop immediately and the variator chewed up the cvt cover, the fixed variator plate and the nut itself, plus all the rollers etc had melted ! . All that can be replaced and i had started that.....

But when i came to check out the new nut on the end of the drive shaft i discovered that the shaft thread was also damaged - See below

What are my options, could i get it rethreaded with a Tap and die ? what size would that be,

or

do i need to have the engine out and replace the whole shaft

or

Other ideas

I paid 2.5k for the bike last year so major expense is sort of a tough sell.

Thanks for all, constructive suggestions - i'm really mad at myself for not stopping sooner - but that is water under the bridge

Jeff
 

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Ouch!
could i get it rethreaded with a Tap and die ?
Difficult to say, looks like material has been lost so there might not be anything to rethread.
The thread could be repaired by an engineering company but would obviously need a strip down to get the shaft out......
You would need to see how much a new shaft costs to weigh up whether it is worth repairing

Andy
 

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I don't know what size it is, but the cost of a nice tap and die set is really pretty low. Be generous with the cutting oil and give it a shot. You're certainly not going to make it any worse, it might work, and you WILL learn something even if it doesn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, yea its been flattened so probably im not sure there's going to be thread left

also sorryall, i realize this is the crankshaft not drive shaft - cant change the title

If seen other posts where people have replaced the left side of teh crank case and rebuilt it - but thats a long term project for sure - maybe breaking it for parts is my only other option.
 

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I don't know what size it is, but the cost of a nice tap and die set is really pretty low. Be generous with the cutting oil and give it a shot. You're certainly not going to make it any worse, it might work, and you WILL learn something even if it doesn't.
yep as you said not much to lose to try just worried as above there will be no thread metal left for the nut - oh well keep it coming
 

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What about using something like a helicoil insert but in reverse? Use a die to cut a smaller thread onto the shaft, place the helicoil over that and then use a correct size nut. I've also seen something similar to helicoils but instead of being made from wire, they are a solid 'tube' threaded on both the inside and outside. I can't for the life if me remember what they are called but someone on here must know what I am talking about.
 

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the link you put up is just a die set! they are just calling it a rethreader. It looks like some of the threads on the crankshaft were just flattened out and not chewed up. If it was mine I would buy the right die, take the new nut to your favorite auto parts store to get the right size. run the die all the way down and replace the washer behind the nut with a thinner washer and if the threads feel good when it starts to tighten up, back it off and add a little blue loc-tite and torque it down. SAFE SCOOTIN and good luck Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok thanks for that , it's an m20 something. Will try that tomorrow the damaged part is right where it will tighten up :-(
 

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A Professional would Weld More Materials on there before Treading it, You lost to much this might result in a thicker screw Smaller Diameter, This happened to me Once But was luck just to have CVT cover Damage and Broken Fins, Does not look like the Case Here, One reason i did to Prevent it from happening again was to put Super Glue Drops on the treads, Once the Bolt was On, even did a test and the screw stayed On there Since the Super Glue puts a protected coating Preventing the screw from coming off been Using this Remedy each time i Service that Area.

Good Luck!!!

Elliott,
 

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This is along the lines of what I was thinking of. It's an internal thread repair method but I cannot see why it would not work on an external thread. Cut a smaller diameter thread on the shaft, fit the sleeve, locktite it on and viola! It's not the one I was thinking of but similar.
http://www.timesert.com/
 

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Me wonder what dealer repair bill cost if dealer do repair in service shop , do someone know ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
cherie, i am thinking the same thing too, Im going to find out the cost for a crankshaft replace tomorrow - if i take them the engine - it is my next step

Today i found out the size is m20 x 1.50 , that none of the autoparts around here have anything that big ( i did over 100 miles going to a bunch for my sunday ride) autozone had a kit but no file of 1.50 and no bit that large - weird but true

so i will look to buy one (file or kit) off the net, Btw harborfreight has a kit with m20x1.50 but its 60+ dollars with 20% coupon, if that doesnt work - then its engine out and replace crankshaft , i need to do a valve checkanyway is the only solace i can find there.

Steve D, i appreciate you taking the time to look for your solution - and I will keep looking too.

So thanks all for the inputs and support

Edit - i just ordered this to see if I can fix it - http://store.snapon.com/Spindle-Rethreading-Set-Die-Rethreader-Metric-M20-x-1-50-P652008.aspx
 

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cherie, i am thinking the same thing too, Im going to find out the cost for a crankshaft replace tomorrow - if i take them the engine - it is my next step

Today i found out the size is m20 x 1.50 , that none of the autoparts around here have anything that big ( i did over 100 miles going to a bunch for my sunday ride) autozone had a kit but no file of 1.50 and no bit that large - weird but true

so i will look to buy one (file or kit) off the net, Btw harborfreight has a kit with m20x1.50 but its 60+ dollars with 20% coupon, if that doesnt work - then its engine out and replace crankshaft , i need to do a valve checkanyway is the only solace i can find there.

Steve D, i appreciate you taking the time to look for your solution - and I will keep looking too.

So thanks all for the inputs and support

Edit - i just ordered this to see if I can fix it - http://store.snapon.com/Spindle-Rethreading-Set-Die-Rethreader-Metric-M20-x-1-50-P652008.aspx
Found this My as Well Learn my self One day i may need it.

Price for that Shaft Gbjbany, is $200 Bucks Range

repair a stripped thread

 

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Napa sells a thread restorer for this situation. It is a compound but is used in high strength situations. I wouldn't have a problem reusing that and restoring the threads...you need to build the threads back up again not just straighten them out, the walls look low on the pic.

You chase threads first then apply compound by screwing the nuts back on,this then build the walls back up and you allowed to dry, it is very strong and powerful!!!
This stuff has been used for cylinder head threads on V-8 engines that goes to show you how good it is. ( use a new nut)
Use threadlock on the new bolt and use a torque wrench, very important!
 

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After blowing the pic up, I see the repair needed more clearly. that nut holds the variator on the shaft, but is there much outward thrust on it?
looking at cost of repairing it by the book or parting it out, you can take chances here. 1 wide nut or 2 regular ones, after chasing the threads, using the restorer, and drilling a hole all the way through the nuts and shaft then putting a cotter pin or roll pin or some such through to prevent movement of the variator should do it. You can use a lesser torque when assembling it to ease the thread load. Nothing to lose, miles to gain.
Use a cobalt bit and a steady, slow light feed. Just a thought.Out here in the bush I do a lot of trash fixes, some work. Bad comes to worse, weld it on.
 

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the link you put up is just a die set! they are just calling it a rethreader. It looks like some of the threads on the crankshaft were just flattened out and not chewed up. If it was mine I would buy the right die, take the new nut to your favorite auto parts store to get the right size. run the die all the way down and replace the washer behind the nut with a thinner washer and if the threads feel good when it starts to tighten up, back it off and add a little blue loc-tite and torque it down. SAFE SCOOTIN and good luck Jay
This is what I'd do. I see you bought the re-threader - it should work since the majority of the strain in on the splines - the bolt holds things tight. I bet the factory (or previous owner) didn't check the torque setting. Put plenty of Loktite Blue on it and hope things stay together. If it fails again then you're out the price of the re-threader and Loktite vs buying a new crank or scraping the bike.
 

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