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If you're looking for a performance boost for your Burgman 400, I believe this has the best "bang for the buck". My Burgman grin certainly got wider! 
I purchased the Dr. Pulley Sliding (DPS) Roller Weights from Matt at ScooterTrap for $52. http://www.scootertrap.com/Burgman400K7.htm Service was excellent as usual. I ended up calling Matt after installing them wrong and he was very helpful in helping me sort things out. It is nice to have someone knowledgeable about the products they sell to talk to, not just a receptionist.
The weights are a totally different design than the OEM roller weights in your variator.
![]()
This image shows how they are not round and actually "slide" verses "roll" like the normal design that Suzuki and every other manufacturer offers.
Once I got past the trepidation of messing things up, I found that the whole process of pulling the variator, changing the CVT belt, and swapping out the DPS was relatively simple. The whole process will take a couple hours for your first time. I have it down now to about a 45 minute job.
I recommend if you're not familiar with the process of pulling the clutch covers off for changing the final drive oil, to use TechArtGuy's tutorial. http://burgmanusa.com/gallery/TechArtGuy/tutorials/an400k7finaldriveoil/ He does a very professional job at producing these for everyone's benefit. Once you get the clutch covers off (very simple), then the variator is exposed. I used an electric impact wrench and 15/16 inch (24mm) socket to pull the variator.
I was impressed with how simple, but effective, the variator design is. The variator has two halves. As you remove parts, you'll first remove the nut, a washer and the outer half of the variator. Next is the CVT belt. After that is the other half of the variator with the weights. It is that simple. No loose springs will go shooting across the garage to be lost forever.
Here's a picture of mine when removed and before removing the backing plate to change the roller weights.
[attachment=3:2z9fij0u]IMG_4242 [640x480].JPG[/attachment:2z9fij0u]
You can see four Phillips head screws that hold the ring on that keeps the innards in place. The dark colored backing plate you see in the center is the part that the roller weights move against (as well as the inner variator half) to change the "gearing" as rpms increase. Remove those four screws and you can then lift out the backing plate with the rollers exposed underneath.[attachment=2:2z9fij0u]IMG_4241 [640x480].JPG[/attachment:2z9fij0u]
(As you can see from the picture, there was some dust inside. Be careful when blowing the dust out that it doesn't get in your eyes, or you breathe it in. I can't imagine it could be good for you.)
Again, a very simple, but effective, design. The roller weights simply move outwards from where you see them in the picture because of centrifugal force. As they move out, they press against the backing plate and that forces the variator pulley half to move closer to the outer variator half squeezing the CVT belt outwards.
At this point, all you have to do is to put the Dr. Pulley Slider Weights in where the rollers are. This is where I messed up. I put them in wrong. The proper way to place them is shown in the pictures below.[attachment=1:2z9fij0u]IMG_4340 [640x480].JPG[/attachment:2z9fij0u][attachment=0:2z9fij0u]IMG_4341 [640x480].JPG[/attachment:2z9fij0u]
Installation is basically the reverse of the removal procedure.
A couple notes now on how to tweak your installation:
1. Keep everything as clean as you can get it. Brush off as much dirt from the outside of the clutch cover as you can. It'll help keep it out of the inside of the variator/clutch area. I used both a small brush and a can of compressed air to blow everything clean as much as possible. And then I used a rag to wipe away the dirt that didn't blow away. The last thing you want is dirt in any bearings, etc.
2. When I put my inner clutch cover bolts in, I clean them off and then put a dab of bearing grease on them. I've broken two bolts before I started doing this from corrosion inside the thread area.
3. Smooth the end of the backing plate where it will come in contact with the DPS as they move to the outermost position. You'll easily see the area that the OEM rollers have moved along on the surface. I used a small fine toothed hand file for this. Take off just enough to make sure the end is smooth, not enough to remove any significant metal. This should help the DPS from getting chewed up, and I believe allow the DPS to move farther out without resistance.
4. Spray the inside of the variator and backing plate with a dry lubricant. It is very easy to see where the rollers have traveled and concentrate on those areas. Don't forget to lubricate the white teflon guides on the backing plate and the place where they move. I put several coats on mine, using a hair dryer to speed up the process. While I was at it, I sprayed the DPS weights too. Be careful and do this in a well ventilated area. The fumes are toxic and flammable.
5. When you are ready to put the variator back together, hold the backing plate in so the weights do not fall loose inside. (I didn't at first, and got to take off the backing plate to put them back in place.)
6. Per Dennis49, "One more important step to take that is ignored by most is packing your variator with grease. Here goes, Greengrease is the best grease you can use for this. You can purchase it at Advanced Auto Parts and I think Auto Zone has it. This is a very important step because if your variator sleeve is dry it takes more force to move the movable pulley over the shaft. What you need to do is pack the area of your variator between the two inner and outer grease seals with grease, make sure this area is full of grease. I pack this area full and then use a tongue depressor to scrape the excess grease even with the lips of the seals. Do not pack the area where the weights are. You packing the hole in the center of the variator were the seals are that ride on the sleeve. Clean the area where the weights ride on the ramps and clean the weights, then spray this area with the dry lubricant and spray all the weights with the dry lube. This will increase the life of your variator weights and the CVT will operate smoother. This will help no matter which weights you use OEM, Malossi, or Dr. Pulley." http://burgmanusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28716&p=351321
7. When tightening up the nut holding on the outer variator pulley, use a socket wrench first and rotate the variator, belt and clutch several times through. You'll find the CVT belt will change position as the nut tightens. Do not use the imact wrench till this is done! You risk an expensive repair bill otherwise because the belt can get pinched and then disintegrate while riding down the road.
So what was it like?
Well, the first time, when I had the DPS in backwards and upside down (yes, it can be done!), the takeoff was smooth...but the engine was screaming as I went down the freeway. It was almost redlined just to merge on the freeway. Since I didn't hurt anything, I doubt you can either.
After taking it apart the next morning and using what Matt and Dennis49 had told me to install the DPS correctly, I left them in for several days before pulling them out. I had found the takeoff to be smooth and quick with lots of low end power, but the rpms were high over the entire speed range. Gas mileage was down markedly. When I was on the freeway, it was like I needed to upshift, and I was seriously considering selling them at this point. I couldn't live with them like that. I went back to the old rollers, which were in really good condition still. While I hadn't noticed the vibration on takeoff to be anything bad before, I could easily tell the difference of the DPS verses the OEM rollers. The DPS were smooth. The OEM rollers were livable.
I pulled the variator again and this time I filed off the backing plate and applied the dry lube as mentioned above. I didn't get a chance to test it, except in the garage on the centerstand that night.
The next morning, as I'm going down the residential streets leading to the freeway, it performed as before. Takeoff was very smooth. Power was readily on tap, as if I had a 500cc engine, not a 400. And the rpms were still about 500-700 higher than with the OEM rollers.
But when I hit the freeway, I believe I even said "WOW!". I know I had a big grin on my face. The difference by filing off the backing plate, and applying the dry lube was incredible. I still had the power of a 500cc engine (seat of the pants measurement only), but the rpms settled down ...even lower than the OEM rollers. It was working like I had hoped all along.
How much lower? After the first installation, at 70 mph (indicated), my rpms were at 6800. The OEM rollers were at 6200 rpms. With the last installation, the rpms dropped to 5800 at 70 mph. That's a thousand less than before!
Gas mileage also went back up in the realm of having the OEM rollers in. The only problem you'll have with getting good gas mileage with these DPS weights is that the temptation to twist the throttle a little more is something very hard to resist. I suppose I'll get used to it, but when you can snap your head back unexpectedly with a little twist of the throttle...well, it'll be fun getting used to this "larger" engine.
If you look at the design of the Dr. Pulley Sliding weight, you'll see that it has two surfaces (ramps) that the backing plate moves on. I believe that at lower speeds, the backing plate is on the steeper ramp. RPMs are up in a higher range where the available torque and hp are higher and the bike responds very quickly. As the bike's speed increases, the backing plate moves up to the top ramp where the angle is much shallower moving the rpms back into a usable range so you have more top speed. As an example, at 65 mph, my rpms are at 6200. But by increasing to 70 mph, the rpms actually drop to 5800. As I increase speed to 75 mph, the rpms are back at 6200 -- the same rpms as the bike needed to only do 65 mph moments before. I believe that is because the backing plate has moved onto that upper ramp as if you just changed gears.
The question that comes to mind is how does this compare with a JCosta variator replacement? Obviously, there is a huge cost difference. But how much difference is there in performance? It would be interesting to have some of the owners of 07+ Burgman 400s who have the JCosta variator installed to post their rpms at 65, 70 and 75 mph (indicated). After watching the rpms decrease as they did, which is a characteristic of the JCosta I believe, it would be interesting to see whether they get the same results. If so, and your variator is in good shape, you can get a lot of performance for only a few $$.
And again, a plug for Matt at ScooterTrap. His customer service is great and he has a very satisfied customer.
Chris
I purchased the Dr. Pulley Sliding (DPS) Roller Weights from Matt at ScooterTrap for $52. http://www.scootertrap.com/Burgman400K7.htm Service was excellent as usual. I ended up calling Matt after installing them wrong and he was very helpful in helping me sort things out. It is nice to have someone knowledgeable about the products they sell to talk to, not just a receptionist.
The weights are a totally different design than the OEM roller weights in your variator.
Once I got past the trepidation of messing things up, I found that the whole process of pulling the variator, changing the CVT belt, and swapping out the DPS was relatively simple. The whole process will take a couple hours for your first time. I have it down now to about a 45 minute job.
I recommend if you're not familiar with the process of pulling the clutch covers off for changing the final drive oil, to use TechArtGuy's tutorial. http://burgmanusa.com/gallery/TechArtGuy/tutorials/an400k7finaldriveoil/ He does a very professional job at producing these for everyone's benefit. Once you get the clutch covers off (very simple), then the variator is exposed. I used an electric impact wrench and 15/16 inch (24mm) socket to pull the variator.
I was impressed with how simple, but effective, the variator design is. The variator has two halves. As you remove parts, you'll first remove the nut, a washer and the outer half of the variator. Next is the CVT belt. After that is the other half of the variator with the weights. It is that simple. No loose springs will go shooting across the garage to be lost forever.
Here's a picture of mine when removed and before removing the backing plate to change the roller weights.
[attachment=3:2z9fij0u]IMG_4242 [640x480].JPG[/attachment:2z9fij0u]
You can see four Phillips head screws that hold the ring on that keeps the innards in place. The dark colored backing plate you see in the center is the part that the roller weights move against (as well as the inner variator half) to change the "gearing" as rpms increase. Remove those four screws and you can then lift out the backing plate with the rollers exposed underneath.[attachment=2:2z9fij0u]IMG_4241 [640x480].JPG[/attachment:2z9fij0u]
(As you can see from the picture, there was some dust inside. Be careful when blowing the dust out that it doesn't get in your eyes, or you breathe it in. I can't imagine it could be good for you.)
Again, a very simple, but effective, design. The roller weights simply move outwards from where you see them in the picture because of centrifugal force. As they move out, they press against the backing plate and that forces the variator pulley half to move closer to the outer variator half squeezing the CVT belt outwards.
At this point, all you have to do is to put the Dr. Pulley Slider Weights in where the rollers are. This is where I messed up. I put them in wrong. The proper way to place them is shown in the pictures below.[attachment=1:2z9fij0u]IMG_4340 [640x480].JPG[/attachment:2z9fij0u][attachment=0:2z9fij0u]IMG_4341 [640x480].JPG[/attachment:2z9fij0u]
Installation is basically the reverse of the removal procedure.
A couple notes now on how to tweak your installation:
1. Keep everything as clean as you can get it. Brush off as much dirt from the outside of the clutch cover as you can. It'll help keep it out of the inside of the variator/clutch area. I used both a small brush and a can of compressed air to blow everything clean as much as possible. And then I used a rag to wipe away the dirt that didn't blow away. The last thing you want is dirt in any bearings, etc.
2. When I put my inner clutch cover bolts in, I clean them off and then put a dab of bearing grease on them. I've broken two bolts before I started doing this from corrosion inside the thread area.
3. Smooth the end of the backing plate where it will come in contact with the DPS as they move to the outermost position. You'll easily see the area that the OEM rollers have moved along on the surface. I used a small fine toothed hand file for this. Take off just enough to make sure the end is smooth, not enough to remove any significant metal. This should help the DPS from getting chewed up, and I believe allow the DPS to move farther out without resistance.
4. Spray the inside of the variator and backing plate with a dry lubricant. It is very easy to see where the rollers have traveled and concentrate on those areas. Don't forget to lubricate the white teflon guides on the backing plate and the place where they move. I put several coats on mine, using a hair dryer to speed up the process. While I was at it, I sprayed the DPS weights too. Be careful and do this in a well ventilated area. The fumes are toxic and flammable.
5. When you are ready to put the variator back together, hold the backing plate in so the weights do not fall loose inside. (I didn't at first, and got to take off the backing plate to put them back in place.)
6. Per Dennis49, "One more important step to take that is ignored by most is packing your variator with grease. Here goes, Greengrease is the best grease you can use for this. You can purchase it at Advanced Auto Parts and I think Auto Zone has it. This is a very important step because if your variator sleeve is dry it takes more force to move the movable pulley over the shaft. What you need to do is pack the area of your variator between the two inner and outer grease seals with grease, make sure this area is full of grease. I pack this area full and then use a tongue depressor to scrape the excess grease even with the lips of the seals. Do not pack the area where the weights are. You packing the hole in the center of the variator were the seals are that ride on the sleeve. Clean the area where the weights ride on the ramps and clean the weights, then spray this area with the dry lubricant and spray all the weights with the dry lube. This will increase the life of your variator weights and the CVT will operate smoother. This will help no matter which weights you use OEM, Malossi, or Dr. Pulley." http://burgmanusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28716&p=351321
7. When tightening up the nut holding on the outer variator pulley, use a socket wrench first and rotate the variator, belt and clutch several times through. You'll find the CVT belt will change position as the nut tightens. Do not use the imact wrench till this is done! You risk an expensive repair bill otherwise because the belt can get pinched and then disintegrate while riding down the road.
So what was it like?
Well, the first time, when I had the DPS in backwards and upside down (yes, it can be done!), the takeoff was smooth...but the engine was screaming as I went down the freeway. It was almost redlined just to merge on the freeway. Since I didn't hurt anything, I doubt you can either.
After taking it apart the next morning and using what Matt and Dennis49 had told me to install the DPS correctly, I left them in for several days before pulling them out. I had found the takeoff to be smooth and quick with lots of low end power, but the rpms were high over the entire speed range. Gas mileage was down markedly. When I was on the freeway, it was like I needed to upshift, and I was seriously considering selling them at this point. I couldn't live with them like that. I went back to the old rollers, which were in really good condition still. While I hadn't noticed the vibration on takeoff to be anything bad before, I could easily tell the difference of the DPS verses the OEM rollers. The DPS were smooth. The OEM rollers were livable.
I pulled the variator again and this time I filed off the backing plate and applied the dry lube as mentioned above. I didn't get a chance to test it, except in the garage on the centerstand that night.
The next morning, as I'm going down the residential streets leading to the freeway, it performed as before. Takeoff was very smooth. Power was readily on tap, as if I had a 500cc engine, not a 400. And the rpms were still about 500-700 higher than with the OEM rollers.
But when I hit the freeway, I believe I even said "WOW!". I know I had a big grin on my face. The difference by filing off the backing plate, and applying the dry lube was incredible. I still had the power of a 500cc engine (seat of the pants measurement only), but the rpms settled down ...even lower than the OEM rollers. It was working like I had hoped all along.
How much lower? After the first installation, at 70 mph (indicated), my rpms were at 6800. The OEM rollers were at 6200 rpms. With the last installation, the rpms dropped to 5800 at 70 mph. That's a thousand less than before!
Gas mileage also went back up in the realm of having the OEM rollers in. The only problem you'll have with getting good gas mileage with these DPS weights is that the temptation to twist the throttle a little more is something very hard to resist. I suppose I'll get used to it, but when you can snap your head back unexpectedly with a little twist of the throttle...well, it'll be fun getting used to this "larger" engine.
If you look at the design of the Dr. Pulley Sliding weight, you'll see that it has two surfaces (ramps) that the backing plate moves on. I believe that at lower speeds, the backing plate is on the steeper ramp. RPMs are up in a higher range where the available torque and hp are higher and the bike responds very quickly. As the bike's speed increases, the backing plate moves up to the top ramp where the angle is much shallower moving the rpms back into a usable range so you have more top speed. As an example, at 65 mph, my rpms are at 6200. But by increasing to 70 mph, the rpms actually drop to 5800. As I increase speed to 75 mph, the rpms are back at 6200 -- the same rpms as the bike needed to only do 65 mph moments before. I believe that is because the backing plate has moved onto that upper ramp as if you just changed gears.
The question that comes to mind is how does this compare with a JCosta variator replacement? Obviously, there is a huge cost difference. But how much difference is there in performance? It would be interesting to have some of the owners of 07+ Burgman 400s who have the JCosta variator installed to post their rpms at 65, 70 and 75 mph (indicated). After watching the rpms decrease as they did, which is a characteristic of the JCosta I believe, it would be interesting to see whether they get the same results. If so, and your variator is in good shape, you can get a lot of performance for only a few $$.
And again, a plug for Matt at ScooterTrap. His customer service is great and he has a very satisfied customer.
Chris
