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Hi All:

I have 21,000 miles on my 09 400 and am going to put a new belt on while I am replacing a bad roller bearing and notched shaft in drive line.
Belt is within specs but rubber does get harder with age so I will replace it.
My origonal round sliders have a lot of small flats but are still working.

I am considering Dr Pulley sliders to lower crusing speed RPM some. 19 grams? I have read that the sliders can flip and then have to be taken apart to put back in proper location. A lot of work!! So, does this happen a lot or very seldom? What is the cause?

Any advice greaty appreaciated.

Thanks, Lynn
2009 Burgman 400
 

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Not sure how often the sliders flip over but to lower your highway RPMs you may need to go heavier than the stock rollers and NOT any lighter!!
 

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I did some testing for Paul Wu for over a year on the DPS weights. He was searching for a way to prevent them from ever flipping. I was a poor candidate to do his testing, because I've never had a DPS weight flip in about 50,000 miles of use.

This is a guess...again because I've never experienced it...but I think the flipping might occur for one of two reasons.
1. When you initially put the variator back together, you need to hold the moveable plate tight against the variator half as you slide it on the shaft. If you don't, they'll shift.
2. I blow out the dust in the variator when I open the CVT area to change the final drive fluid. Perhaps the dust buildup causes one of the weights to not move freely. If so, that would hold the moveable plate out some and give space for one of the other weights to flip.

At 70 mph indicated, 18 gram weights are about 5800 on mine. With 19 gram weights, that drops to about 5300 on mine. I like the lower rpms, so I've gone with 19 gram weights.

Chris
 

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I agree with Daboo. Mine have never flipped over & I've got 35k+ miles on mine. I'm using the 18 gram ones & my rpms @70 are just under 6,000.
 

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+1 Daboo and Desert-Rat

Sliders are different. I use 18g also, and would consider 19g next time, but either is well worth the effort. Those who haven't tried them will be converted once the do.

I have never had a problem with sliders in any of my scooters. Like stated, make sure you keep the fixed plate and sliding pulley together as you assemble. TIP. Apply loktite the crank threads, slide on the movable assembly, use your free thumb to keep pressure on the movable plate, use your other hand to slide on the belt over the spacer, then put on the other fixed plate and finger tighten the nut.

Then I place a piece of rubber hose between the pulley halves (to keep pressure on them), create some drive belt slack and torque that nut down. If your drive belt is not slack you can not apply the proper torque to the assembly, and you will loose your left nut, very painful.
 

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It's not really a lot of work to R&R the variator. Just need a torque wrench and 24 mm socket. And some way to hold the variator while you remove or tighten the nut. Can do the job in less than half hour, after my huge learning curve :lol:
I bought 18g Dr Pulley sliders, but would get 19g if I did it again. Nonetheless, the 18g are better than the stock rollers. Also, they have never "flipped". I did reinstall incorrectly once, allowing a slider to get "Pinched" so the variator was always in Super-High gear. Good gas mileage but hell on the clutch :(
 

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For Dr Pulley sliders check
www.buggypartsnw.com

If you install these sliders, there is a little attention
that needs to be paid to the variator back plate.
The end edges of the ramps are usually a bit rough
from the original stamping process, & can cause some
pre-mature wear of the sliders. A slight touch-up of the
edges with a fine grinding stone in a Dremel tool will
eliminate this sharp edge. It doesn't take much...
The variator back plate is real hard steel...my fine
tooth file didn't even leave a mark..the grinding stone
did the job....& I installed 19g sliders...26 X 13.
Stock rollers don't get to the end edge of the ramp...
Dr Pulley sliders do. There are YouTube videos that
show the action of Dr Pulley sliders.
 

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Also you might want to consider factors that influence the ride -- e.g. scooter load, type of terrain etc. If loads are more than 220 lbs and driving through hill area you probably don't need anything heavier than 18 g.
 

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OOps, I bought 19g DP. I would buy a gram heavier though. And still have never had one "flip". Ride on! :)
 

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I checked Buggyworks and they were sold out of the 18's I wanted but had 16 gm sliders so I thought I would give them a try. Cant wait to give them a few acceleration tests.
I just did a post on the 21g sliders I put in my 08, wow what a difference they make, I love them!
 

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I checked Buggyworks and they were sold out of the 18's I wanted but had 16 gm sliders so I thought I would give them a try. Cant wait to give them a few acceleration tests.
I put in the 16's in my Burg and I found quite the difference in acceleration (now revs to almost 7000 rpm when full throttle applied) and even cruising at hiway speed (indicated, 120 km/hr = 75 mph)dropped my rpm around 800.

Best $55 I ever spent.
 

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I would recommend going lighter than stock -- this engine likes revving more than lugging
I had ordered the original weight 20g from
www.buggypartsnw.com
they contacted me, & based on their experience,
recommended the 19g sliders, which I purchased,
& installed. I am a happy scooter-rider.
 

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The bike combines comfort of a cruiser with engine of sport tourer, so one can wave both on the road :D , but Harley tickover is not exactly its style.
 

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Yep, 16-18 gram sliders are the way to go according to everything I've read.

If you just want to lower the rpm a bunch at hwy speeds and dont care about initial acceleration, then a heavier weight is what you should be looking at.
 
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