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Discussion Starter #1
Must be the season for fork oil changes, as I have been getting a lot of private e-mails on the subject.

Finished putting the finishing touches to the DIY that was in the works and published it this morning, well it's 3 AM here, couldn't sleep.

DIY - Fork Oil Maintenance

It is a rather easy project and can be done by just about anybody.
You only need about 2-4 inches of clearance at the front to take the forks out, a scissor jack would work nicely.
You definitely need a 17 mm hex socket or wrench/key.

The DIY has the complete service manual steps followed by my expanded section with lots of pictures and notes.

A few pics with the video(s) to follow soon:




















 

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Just want to post a quick thank you for your work on these procedures, I just changed the fork oil in my wifes 06 Burgman and it was easy, thanks to your instructions. A note that I did use 20W fork oil and the ride is much smother. It had ATF in it previously and was very harsh.
 

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Forgot a ?, in the write up on changing the fork oil you recommended orderless mineral spirits to clean out the forks, but in California that is no longer available, I used some acetone but it didn't seem to dissolve the oil or ATF very readily, any ideas on a substitute for the mineral spirits?

thanks
 

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Wow they don't allow mineral spirits but they allow acetone. :shock: That makes no sense to me. But then the guvernment rarely makes sense.
 

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The factory oil is red like Dexron but I think its not ATF. I had a link to a study of most fork oils out there and it showed that you can not go by the label in about 80% of the time. One manufactures 10W is like another's 20W, others 20w is thin like 5W. ???? I lost that link when the puter died.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Glad to be of service, hope the DIY helps others and motivates them to taske care of their forks.

Pretty easy project that anybody can do.

As for the odorless mineral spirits, I buy mine from OSH or HomeDepot
They both sell it, I am in the LA area.

I am not an expert when it comes tho chemicals but the spirits seem
to be a favorite among lots of DIYers.

I use the dexron/ATF Transmission oil to flush the forks after the
spirits flush, quite cheap at $4.00 a bottle and quite compatible with
regular fork oil.

I went to 15w weight fork oil and like the ride so far.
 

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royphotog said:
in the write up on changing the fork oil you recommended orderless mineral spirits to clean out the forks, but in California that is no longer available, I used some acetone but it didn't seem to dissolve the oil or ATF very readily
Don't know about Mineral Spirits but I know I have a gallon in the garage. Acetone is worthless on oil, great of you wanna take Super Glue off or nail polish but totally worthless on oil! Every type of automotive cleaner (brake cleaner, throttle body cleaner, parts wash, electrical contact cleaner, etc...) here in So Cal has been reformulated with acetone rendering them totally useless!
 

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royphotog said:
Forgot a ?, in the write up on changing the fork oil you recommended orderless mineral spirits to clean out the forks, but in California that is no longer available, I used some acetone but it didn't seem to dissolve the oil or ATF very readily, any ideas on a substitute for the mineral spirits?

thanks
I find plain gas works fine for me. One of the best uses for ethanol laced gas.
 

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Perhap can use naphta stove fuel or home furnace fuel (kerosene) if can not get mineral spirit, that often use here for DIY project.
 

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Added to knowledgebase
 

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Chérie said:
Is 9:30 in fiche fork oil drain plug ?
I can't see the image on my mobile but the bolt in the bottom of each fork holds the piston (cylinder) in place in each lower tube.
 

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Adding to Chérie's question- referring to the link

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche_se ... fveh=39880

Is the bolt recessed above the front axle 'hole'?
The reason I ask – I’m just wondering if my 8mm metric hex driver is long enough to reach that bolt.

[attachment=0:3veb398p]IMG_1653.JPG[/attachment:3veb398p]
 

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claymore said:
Is the bolt recessed above the front axle 'hole'?
The reason I ask – I’m just wondering if my 8mm metric hex driver is long enough to reach that bolt.
If it is the answer is no. I bought a Allen socket and loose Allen wrench. I hammered out the Allen bit from the socket, measured/cut the loose Allen wrench, and pressed it into the socket making a socket bit long enough.

http://gotgroceries.net/modules.php?nam ... itemId=830
 

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royphotog said:
Forgot a ?, in the write up on changing the fork oil you recommended orderless mineral spirits to clean out the forks, but in California that is no longer available, I used some acetone but it didn't seem to dissolve the oil or ATF very readily, any ideas on a substitute for the mineral spirits?

thanks
btw-

I picked a quart of odor-less Mineral Sprits at my local Ace Hardware just a few days ago in Northern California (a one gallon plastic container was available also)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If you are gong to service your fork, you will probably need a 17mm hex socket / key, unless it has been changed on later model years.

HF offers a great set for around $10.00 and it has a 12mm, 14mm and 17mm 1/2" hex sockets.



get an extension set as the handlebars can get in the way



What I used:


 

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Thanks for the DIY. What weight oil would be best for softening up the front end, I find it to be a bit too harsh.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
InfernoST said:
Thanks for the DIY. What weight oil would be best for softening up the front end, I find it to be a bit too harsh.
That's really a personal choice and it varies from rider to rider and bike to bike.... It's really a trial and error until one finds the perfect weight.

I went from the OEM 10W to 15W and like it so far, the front end feels more planted and the pogo stick action on uneven surfaces has subsided
quite a bit.
 
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