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Discussion Starter #1
I serviced my new 400 last weekend including the valve adjustment (600 mile service). The service manual has you removing more parts than you need, so I thought I would review how I did it, if anyone else is interested. First let me say to get a service manual, if you don't have one, there is a lot of useful information you will need. (About $35)

To start remove the seat (you don't HAVE to but it sure makes everything easier) it is better to remove the two hinge screws than the four bracket screws the manual says to remove. Remove the bottom pan (fairing). Remove the engine/frame cover and the upper engine cover. That's it for bodywork, everything else is reachable without removing any other parts. The forward screw on the belt filter cover is hidden but reachable with a socket and a 1/4 inch drive ratchet. The other part that is hard to reach is the crankcase vent tube but you can just get to it from the rear without removing the trunk box. Pull off the air box per the manual and remove the two screws that hold the throttle body manifold to the head. You don't have to remove the throttle body just zip tie it to the right frame rail and there is plenty of room to get to the valve cover. Adjust the valves per the manual and then you can button it back up. The hardest part is removing and replacing the seat, two people will make that easier but I did it by myself without too much trouble. There is no need to remove any of the painted parts and there is plenty of room around the valves that checking the clearances was easy. (Adjust the valves per the manual, I won't repeat it here.)

I also have the special tool to read the fuel injection codes (an $18.00 switch) and adjust the TPS. You don't need to remove the front fairing if you fish around under the headlight fairing the connector is right there with a rubber cover on it. I keep the switch tool under the seat with a list of codes in case I get stuck on the road. Anyway the codes were clear and the TPS was set in the proper position. I cleared the oil change light from the instrument panel, changed the oil and filter and I was done.
I don't know how much the dealer charges but it took me about 5 hours this first time (removing parts that didn't need to be removed) but the next time I think an hour or an hour and a half would do it. If you are the least bit handy and change your own oil, this service was easy. Maybe not for the very beginner but it is way easy for the home mechanic. Give it a try. I know how to get at everything now and if I ever get stuck on the road I'm more prepared than before. Good luck.

Thanx
Russ
 

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Thank Russ

Hey Russ,

Thanks for the tips...I am reaching the 600 mile mark and apparently the manual is not available in Canada so I'll have to make my own way. What are the tappets settings BTW. 0.004 for intake and 0.006 for exhaust?
 

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Some details....

I was wondering if you could provide a couple of details.... What about the electrical connection to the rear trunk light. Is this easily removed along with the seat. One more...removing the air box. Is it straight forward or are there a couple of tricks here.

Now how do you change the tranny oil and how much do you need to add?

Thanks Timothy
 

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This whole deal with the manual not being available is a little disconcerting...

We need to scan it in and make a pdf (I could do this at work, we have a great scanner and Adobe Acrobat)!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
1. The service manual part number is 99500-34080-03E that's for an AN400K3 but I used it for my K4. It's a "must have".

2. The seat light connector is in front of the seat. Remove the top frame/engine cover and it's right there.

3. The air box is not too tricky, just a couple of hoses and connectors. Once you have it all unhooked it pulls out of the retaining pins on the bottom and comes right off (forward).

4. Inlet and exhaust clearance is .003-.005 intake/ .007-.009 exhaust. mine were right at the minimim spec.

5. The final drive oil change is not part of the 600 mile service. It's 190 ml of SAE 90 grade GL-5. The service manual is wrong on page 2-11. There is a filler and a drain plug on the side/rear of the drive under the clutch cover.
 

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Thanks Russ

Hey Russ,

Thanks for info....I will be picking up the manual ASAP but when I checked a couple of weeks ago it was not available so this could leave me you guys as a source of practical and useful information. I will be doing all my own work and piss on the "lackie" mechanics I find as most dealerships. Sorry for the cynical attitude but I didn't buy good tools to leave idle in the tool box.
 

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I suggest caution when using a shop manual from a different year, if this is the source of info such as valve clearances. They can change and I'd hate to use the wrong clearance data.

I'm sure Russ verified he had the right clearance data or knows that the engine hasn't been changed between '03 and '04.

My ancient experience with this was on a 1965 VW beetle...the valve clearance info in my one-year-old manual was something like .036 (clearances could be huge on these old air cooled engines!), but the correct clearance for my engine was .009. When I set it them to .036 the engine clattered like an old washing machine. :lol: My dealer got me straight about the clearances and how they varied with engine serial number during that time. No damage done, but if my error had been toward setting the valves too TIGHT, I could have damaged my engine.

--Roy
 

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Frist Service Done...

OK Russ,

The first service is done....6 hours later and lots of sweat! m Firstly, I think its best to take off the seat from the 4 nuts. The two big end bolts hold a sleeve that is greased for the hinged seat and best to be left alone. I did it the way you recommended and found taking the end bolts off a pain in the ass. I had to re-lubricated the hinge. In fact, this bike was probably designed by CAD and therefore there was tight spacing for all the parts such as the air box etc.

The most troublesome was replacing the air box. The rear crankcase breather kept popping off and so I decided to wiggle the trunk box loose for more room. This did the trick. I wish I had the manual for this job. Next time I'll remove the trunk completely.

Good that I did it because 3 of the 4 valves were tight (not completely closed but 0.002" intakes and 0.004 exhaust). I adjusted them for 0.008 " exhaust and the intakes to 0.006" ( a bit looser than 0.005"). The oil and filter was a cinch. The oil looked really clean.

My over all impression...this is a damned pain in the arse compared to my Motto Guzzi and Beemer. Why don't they make them hydraulic? The motor doesn't spin that fast and my Yamaha Riva 200 had hydraulic valves so it is possible.

After all is said and done, I was glad I did it myself. How would you feel getting the dealer to do it when you know they don't even have the service manual. If I can't get it here in Canada for the the 2004 model what makes you think that the dealer can. I wasn't willing to let them experiment with my bike. Uhmm....maybe they'll do it in 4 hours at $65/hour then maybe they won't be so careful and wreck and couple of plastic pieces then leave out some fasteners. If there are missing parts, I have only myself to blame.

Timothy
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Tim,

Leave the vent hose on the air box and disconnect it at the rear transmission. Remove the air box cover and filter. Lift the front of the air box and pull the box out of the rear push pins. No need to remove the trunk box plus it's a lot of work.
I have one of those open end ratchet wrenches (spanners?) and it was easier to remove two screws on the seat hinge pivot than the four on the bracket but you got to the same place so you were OK. It sounds like you did a fine job and yes believe it or not it is not as easy as my Moto Guzzi or BMW! Small world, eh?

Thanx
Russ
Go Leafs! (Sorry, I used to live in Toronto)
 

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Hey Russ

Russ,

I used to live in Toronto as well (Dundas and Bathurst ...one mile from city hall)! So you have a Guzzi and a Beemer as well.

Yea, I had somewhat of a frustrating time getting that hose back on. I spent about an hour trying to get it back on. An hour here and hour there replacing pieces that had to be removed to get at the tappets. I wonder what a dealer would charge for this job. I very pleased that it's done even though it took 6 hours.

But now that I reached this milestone, highway travel is possible. The 400 feels real busy at 100 kms/hr but for a short trip here and there I think its OK. Timothy
 

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Gee, we should start an ex-Toronto Burgman group! I also spent 40 years in The Big Smoke. There is nothing you could threaten me with that would make me move back though. :x
 

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Move back yucky thought!!!

Hey Harold,

The big smoke eh! I never knew TO' s knick name. Yeah I felt the same way when I left it. I ran when I left because Vancouver is the M/Cist paradise of Canada. Lots of rain but I used to ride all year round when I owned a Yamaha Riva scooter. Now I'm back with the 400 and the car is off the road coming this Wednesday.

Actually I do go back once in awhile and do miss some aspects of the very big city. TO does have some good for a big place but not enticing me enough ever to return. No money, no love, nothing at all.
 

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Re: Hey Russ

Timothy Ma said:
But now that I reached this milestone, highway travel is possible.
Hi I just got the ’04 Burg for my wife (I ride an ’04 VFR 800 ABS)

Timothy you seem to be suggesting that you can not / should not / did not run the bike @ 100 KPH until after the 600 mile service.

Is this the case and if so does the manual specify thusly? We have not picked up the bike but during the test ride I gently ran it up to 100 KPH on the flat for a very short bit.

Did you get a shop manual?

I am going to need one too and I live nearby, so perhaps we can figure something out.
 

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Chumly,

You don't have the 400 yet so let me give you some advice. You will find it very difficult to keep the revs down below their recommended brake in rpm. It wants to rev above 4,000 just accelerating in the city so set your mind to allow 4,500 - 5,000 rpms and just be careful to vary your speed and loading.

I would not take it on the highway. It spins at about 5,000 rpms at 80 kpm and will spin 5,300 -5,800 rpms at 100 kph....not within the specified break in rpms. Since you do not have a manual let me recommend you look at some of the postings here for hints on servicing.

You sound like the kind of person that will want to service the 400 rather than bringing it in to the dealer. The first service is very time consuming. DO THE TAPPETS because they will be tight...this took me over 5 hours because of all the plastic pieces that needed to be removed and re-installed. If you are not mechanically inclined then take it to the dealer but expect to pay lots. Its very annoying to have to take so much of this scooter apart to do such routine work. My BMW and Moto Guzzi take about 45 mins to do the same job. Hope this helps...maybe I should get together with you when you are ready to do it. Let me know
 

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I would be happy to have your company & assistance when I do the first service, at whichever home is most convenient.

I know the joys :x of plastic parts and inaccessible doodads as I had a Honda Goldwing GL1500 for many years until these two bikes. The VFR is looking pretty joyful :evil: too.

Your experience would be great. I will PM my address and phone number etc. And also thanks for the input on break-in RPM’s. At least with the BMW and Guzzi the cylinders stick outwards and my GL1500 had hydraulic lifters. Progress :roll:
 

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There are post on tappets in this forum, where you don't need to remove everything that the manuals suggests my 250 took about 2 hours from memory via short cuts ... (thats full first service)

Greg ...
 
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