I actually don't think that its a good thing to idle your bike on the sidestand. All the oil in the cases runs towards the left side , thus leaving improper oil distribution to the right side of the machine. This is just my opinion and is not based on any actual facts that I've heard or read.
My Cruiser bike would start up while on the stand, but immediately turn off once you started to roll or once the cluch handle was let out.
It may be more trickier to do on a burg since there is no manual clutch.
I don't recommend just disabling the kickstand switch unless an additional mod has been made to disable the bike once it attempts to move.
I just got a visual...The bike is running on the stand...I'm putting on my helmet...My 7 yr old puts his curiuos hand on the throttle...Yikes!!!
How about the emergency brake folks? I always engage the emergency brake when leaving the 650 on the sidestand. I think I'd be OK with letting it idle on the sidestand with the brake engaged as long as I was right there.
I have conducted my own research into the sidestand cut-off bypass scheme and have found the following:
The Burgman must never be allowed to fall over under its own power
by having the side-stand interlock bypassed.
1. Parking brake Must be pulled beyond normal hold pressure because
if the throttle grip is inadvertently twisted, engine torque can overcome
the parking brake normal holding pressure.
2. Throttle Rocker's and other tension relieving throttle paddles can get bumped
while getting off and on Burgman and can rev engine beyond 2,000 rpm's.
Thick riding gloves are culprits for inadvertent throttle increases while using a paddle.
The solution to the arbitrary "by feel" method of getting the parking brake set
to a known reliable pressure is to install a second switch at the parking brake
ratchet to make the parking brake light flash when the higher pressure range
is achieved. When the light flashes the rider knows that enough pull of the handle
has been achieved so that they may confidently get off the bike.
This second switch position also holds the bike safely when cold starting at high idle rpm's which would give
very excessive engine torque if the throttle were inadvertently bumped up.
* BurgyModules *
I'm getting the BurgyBrake Module finished and it should be ready by summer.
It is a ready to install solution for the necessary 2nd switch/light plus a
theft alarm buzzer.
I'm grappling with the possibility that unless wires are cut to install the BurgyBrake that
the riding public would have to instead install connectors at strategic places inside the bike
that would necessitate body plastic removal.
To ready the bike for the BurgyBrake and other future enhancements, a completely
pre-fabed wiring harness could be part of the job with credit for the old one returned
to me instead of having the installation public crimp connectors
and heat shrink rtv sealed terminations.
The AN650 harness is over $500 and the AN400 is just over $400 to me
but the installing public would only exchange it for a customized hard-wired pre-fab
one for installation of BurgyModule functions like BurgyBrake.
Due to long term detrimental effects of placing Y connectors into the harness, thus
increasing the number of connections possibly exposed to the elements, the pre-fab harness
is starting to look like the best bet so far.
By tapping into throttle grip position sensing, the BurgyBrake can cut the engine off
if the throttle were turned anywhere above idle, by mistake.
This sensor sensing that the BurgyBrake can do is only reliably acheived by means
of a customized pre-fab harness assembly.
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