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2008 red 400
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Valve inspection done today, top .004/ bottom .008
After some research I’m finding that when shimming they have you shim to the low number. As mine is at 11,000 miles that makes sense because that’s probably the way it was set at the factory.
just some FYI
2008/Burgman 400 11,000 miles
 

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2008 Burgman 400
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I watched Mitch’s video on you tube and for some reason I just don’t understand the whole process. Looking for help to understand it as well.
‘Not sure about shims and where they may go, didn’t see any reference on his video.
‘I do need to check (and Shim if necessary) but I would like to understand the process before I dive into it.
 

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normally engines with bucket tappets get tighter with miles
Especially the exhaust side. Or don't change alot.
My Kawi 750 went 40K miles and never needed attention. Ditto V-Strom at 28K.
I go middle to large, leaving tolerance room to close up.
The old adage for OHV pushrod engines was that "a tappy tappet is a happy tappet".

INTAKE
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Pattern

EXHAUST
Font Rectangle Slope Parallel Pattern
 

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Yes, upper end of the range for me too.
Larger gap = more time the valve is shut = more time to transfer heat.
My goal for AN400 is intakes .007-.008, EX .011-.012.
Also, I keep the pairs as equal as possible
 
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2008 Burgman 400
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Valve inspection done today, top .004/ bottom .008
After some research I’m finding that when shimming they have you shim to the low number. As mine is at 11,000 miles that makes sense because that’s probably the way it was set at the factory.
just some FYI
2008/Burgman 400 11,000 miles
I thought you are able to loosen the jam nut and turn adjuster to alter the gap On the 2008 400 ?
 

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Not sure about shims and where they may go, didn’t see any reference on his video.
‘I do need to check (and Shim if necessary) but I would like to understand the process before I dive into it.
I thought you are able to loosen the jam nut and turn adjuster to alter the gap On the 2008 400 ?
I'm confused!

Your 2008 has shims. All B400s 2007 and up do - 14000 mile check intervals. Adjustment procedure fairly advanced , involves camshaft removal.

Link to Mitch's 2008 model videos.

2002 - 2006 are screw and lock nut. Check intervals are 3500 miles. Adjustment procedure relatively easy. Gaps altered by screw.
 

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2014 Burgman 400
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I thought you are able to loosen the jam nut and turn adjuster to alter the gap On the 2008 400 ?
07+ use shim under cam tappets (also called cup or inverted cup, tappets), cams must be removed to replace adjustment shims, Like mentioned above valves clearances will usually tighten/close over time and always try to adjust to biggest clearance possible, ditto for remaining stable after approx. 30k miles or so, haven't adjusted valves on a Burgman, but have done plenty 4cyl. bikes. "Adjusting Clearance" is not a very easy/desirable task, best for those with above average mechanical knowledge/skills and "Crystal Clear" understanding of the valvetrain operation, cam timing, lobe positioning, TDC, BDC, Overlap, etc. If you have to ask a lot of questions, is not for you, seek help. A tooth off on the cam timing, can cause a lot $$$$ damage, seen plenty. :(
 

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Another point, try stick as close as possible to manufacturers recommendations on check/adjustment "mileage interval", the mileage displayed the day you did it is when the new 14,500 mi or 24,000 km interval starts, If your clearances were in limits, but on the smaller end of the range. IMO, I would reduce the next interval mileage to 10k mi or 16k km. to be safe.

Example: checked at 10,000 mi + 14,500 mi (interval) = 24,500 mi next check due.

Side note: Interestingly, when I was in the market for a B400, saw 3 different scooters around 14K miles for sale, I wondered if the valve check at dealer $$$ o_O , played any part in that :unsure::whistle:
 

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A shame Suzuki decided to go for shims under the tappets, maybe it has something to do with the automatic decompressor. My Suzuki GS500E had the shims on top, you just use a little lever, mine was home made, to push the bucket down and change the shim with a pair of tweezers. No removal of camshafts.
 

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In the knowledge base, compiled by (quote) "a non-mechanic, the hardest thing was in getting up the courage to start. So I encourage you to do the same. As you get into it, you'll realize just how simple these Burgmans are...and you'll save about $450. " That's a 2010 price.

 

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If you get in over your head , so what ! Take it to professionals. They will put it back , no harm, no file .

If by chance you find a mechanic/shop nowadays that will actually take your unfinished basket-case scooter, most shops won't work on scooters in the 1st place, be prepared to sign a TBD (To be determined) estimate invoice, kind of a blank check! I took on quite a few of those in my life, most "not worth it" $$$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That may be true I’ve not encountered it. But checking valves is easy. As Mitch says just follow the video you will be fine . Lol
 

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B Getz, I'd help ya, but Pittsburgh PA is 1100 miles, kind of a long ride
Changing shims might be a 2- day job, in my case, have to borrow wife's car 🙄 to get new shims, sometimes to more than one dealer...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Right now I’m in specifications, but if I have to change shims later no big deal, done shims before. I did them on my Kawasaki 800 classic. I think hardest part is just getting started.
 

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Valve inspection done today, top .004/ bottom .008
Right now I’m in specifications,
Well, I hope it works out good for you, you're at the minimum clearance and checked them 3,500 miles before they were due :unsure:, the "Experience Based Knowledge" (not opinions) on this type of valve train indicates they will only get tighter over time. IMO and by the manual they are still due at 14.5k.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, I hope it works out good for you, you're at the minimum clearance and checked them 3,500 miles before they were due :unsure:, the "Experience Based Knowledge" (not opinions) on this type of valve train indicates they will only get tighter over time. IMO and by the manual they are still due at 14.5k.
Yeah, I’ll have to watch them 👍
 
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