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Discussion Starter #1
Dealer diagnostic of my 2007 Burgman 400 suggested replace STVA. And if that didn't solve problem the, replace ECM. No guaranteed of results.
Brought scooter home removed the STVA and unit started and would advance to redline. Started smoking from left side . Shut unit off and let it cool off overnight. Next morning would not fire. Replaced STVA.... no change. Removed all the Tupperware exposing the innerds and no evidence of fire or cause of smoke. Switched out coil..... no fire.
Would faulty ECM restrict ignition fire.? Only ECM available is used one...Suzuki no longer makes them.

Suggestions/thoughts please.
Thanks, Wicker, San Antonio
 

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You might unhook your battery and hook it back up. The computer may have The Death Rev in its memory? Just taking guesses that only costs sweat and curse words ...
 

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Check that you have spark. Check you have oil obviously. The smoking part is weird. Not sure if turning and engine off when and if it was overheating... Would that lock up. The bike. You can turn the cvt to check that no?
 

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Btw had noise from my stva (plastic gears inside) didnt reinstall it. But i made sure the throttle plate inside is opened horizontal. Make sure to put your head in there and look. Once you remove that pos stva unit it will freely spin. Such a fail design that stva. Mcbergsma had issues with his stva as well. Not sure of his video "solution" held long term
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You might unhook your battery and hook it back up. The computer may have The Death Rev in its memory? Just taking guesses that only costs sweat and curse words ...
Thanks. Disconnected the battery as u suggested and bike started right up. I also experimented with using kill switch instead if turning off with key...this allowed me to restart it without dissonecting battery.
Reved up to redline and tapped and wiggled the ECU which is now laying loose and any movement of of ECU would kill the the bike. Will nestle ECU in foam cushion and see what happens. Power cord to ECU is cluster of wires and wrapped real good which makes me think there is not a wiring fault.
Thanks for the suggestion

Wick
 

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In addition to the ECU itself, it could be the connection to the ECU, could be inside the wiring harness from the connector. Flex the wiring and wiggle the connector while it's running, just to make sure those aren't where the problem is.
 

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What really pi88e8 me off is the dealer just wanting to swap out parts. If one doesn't work, oh well, they'll just keep swapping perfectly good parts out until something works ... or not. After all, they are on an unlimited budget ... YOURS! What ever happened to true diagnosis and then a REPAIR instead of this replace mentality!!! Rant over.
 

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Very few really know how to isolate issues. They swap. Oh its not that so maybe its this.
 

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Test-by-substitution is a perfectly valid diagnostic process.
Unless you have to buy each component they test...

I don't care that you had to order a new ECU, ignition module, etc. as long as you sent the parts I didn't end up needing right back to the warehouse for credit.
 

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Test-by-substitution is a perfectly valid diagnostic process.
Unless you have to buy each component they test ...
Totally agree! My experience is the dealers/replace shops have tried to make me believe the replaced parts "needed replacement anyway" so they try to make me pay for them and the associated labor too. Recent example, my 20 y.o. Craftsman riding mower Kohler engine died with no warning and would not restart. Took it in to the repair shop I trust and have used for decades. They replaced the head gasket and performed a major tune-up (which it likely needed). Said it overheated and I believed them as I pulled out all kinds of crap from the clogged up cooling fins before taking it in (my bad!). Paid the hefty $300+ bill and went home to cut grass.

Machine would run smoothly for about 20 minutes, start romping and then die. Once cooled down (1 hour later), restart it and it would run another 20 minutes and die. Took it back. Said he had a bad batch of Briggs & Stratton fuel filters so he replace it (for free as I already paid for the first one). Also ran a diagnostic on my Spark Management Module and it failed. I was standing beside him outside during the whole procedure and sure enough, the Kohler diagnostic tool recorded and displayed the "FAIL" in the readout. Replacement Part is over $200 after already spending over $300+ for the first round of work. 20 y.o. riding mower maybe worth maybe $600 in good working order. In for a penny ... in for a pound?

I said let's hold off on the Spark Management Module and see what effect the new fuel filter might have. It's been a month now. Three - 1.5 hour lawn cuts later and not one skip, miss or romp from the engine. Looks like it was the bad fuel filter after all. Glad I told him to hold off on the Spark Management Module and save myself that expense. Had I said "go ahead" and order it, I would have been out several hundred dollars for nothing.

This is a shop and owner I trust ... however you have to be your own advocate or else run the risk of paying for something you don't really need. That's why I love burgmanusa.com ... you get good insights (diagnostic and repair) into problems. And even if you can't fix them yourself, you have less chance of getting taken by unscrupulous dealers/replace shops if you are better prepared walking into their establishments.
 

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In my eyes they are all thieves. The ones I came across anyways . They dont have a bad rep because they're honest. Others may have found honest people. I dont trust a single person anymore. You dont know if youll go in with one thing to fix, they replaced another part with a dying part and come back another week to pay for thatim 1000% certain that's what they did with my stva. I bring it for analysis on no start i get it back with "dont invest in it its too expensive" and an stva that grinds on turning the scooter on. I hope they go bankrupt.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
In addition to the ECU itself, it could be the connection to the ECU, could be inside the wiring harness from the connector. Flex the wiring and wiggle the connector while it's running, just to make sure those aren't where the problem is.
I have flexed the wiring and it does kill the bike or in the best case starts to miss. What scares me is stripping the wire back and unable to detect the bad wire. Will a circuit detecter work for this application?
Also have question about the wiring to the strva..If disconnect from the strva will it affect any other components, as I understand it, the wiring just provides the impulse to activate the strva . I have disassembled ,cleaned and lubed the plastic gear and it works smoothly,,,can hear it engage when turn on ignition. Have adjusted it per Mitch's video and still will not run properly....on center stand can usually get it to rev up near 4-5000rpm.
I think the strva is probably not responding to the commands from the ecu..does that make Sense? The strva is so simple and unless white plastic gear is worn badly, I cannot see it being the problem if u can hear it Engage when u turn ignition on?
Thanks wicker in hot San Antonio.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have flexed the wiring and it does kill the bike or in the best case starts to miss. What scares me is stripping the wire back and unable to detect the bad wire. Will a circuit detecter work for this application?
Also have question about the wiring to the strva..If disconnect from the strva will it affect any other components, as I understand it, the wiring just provides the impulse to activate the strva . I have disassembled ,cleaned and lubed the plastic gear and it works smoothly,,,can hear it engage when turn on ignition. Have adjusted it per Mitch's video and still will not run properly....on center stand can usually get it to rev up near 4-5000rpm.
I think the strva is probably not responding to the commands from the ecu..does that make Sense? The strva is so simple and unless white plastic gear is worn badly, I cannot see it being the problem if u can hear it Engage when u turn ignition on?
Thanks wicker in hot San Antonio.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
How best to identify exactly which wire into the ecu is shorting. I can the tape back but advise please. I have a multimeter.
Thanks wick
 

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Are you able to open the ECU .... could it be a bad solder point ? You need to have both ends of the wire to check continuity....Maybe Dave_J knows a work around ?
 

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Nope, no short cuts. If the connector is loose maybe expand one sides pin.
 

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If you haven't already, pull the connector off the ECM and push it back on a couple of times. Do a close visual (preferably with a magnifying glass) of the connector and the mating part of the ECM. Maybe very carefully give each wire a gently tug to make sure a terminal is not coming out of the connector. If you have some DeOxit it wouldn't hurt to give the terminals a spritz of that. Intermittent problems are more likely to be in connectors than in a taped, protected bundle, assuming there's no evidence of abrasion, overheating or other damage to the cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If you haven't already, pull the connector off the ECM and push it back on a couple of times. Do a close visual (preferably with a magnifying glass) of the connector and the mating part of the ECM. Maybe very carefully give each wire a gently tug to make sure a terminal is not coming out of the connector. If you have some DeOxit it wouldn't hurt to give the terminals a spritz of that. Intermittent problems are more likely to be in connectors than in a taped, protected bundle, assuming there's no evidence of abrasion, overheating or other damage to the cable.
Thanks Dub, have removed everything that blocks visual inspection of wiring down into the innards between the fork legs. Wiring insulation looks very good. Bike only has 11000 mi,.
I cleaned ecm pins and recepticle with B12 chemtool, and dried it out with air hose the then used heat gun to make sure no moisture was in. Thanks for your encouragement about wiring, unlikely to be the problem if in good condition! The schematic Shows 40 wires into the ecu. I feel pretty sure the ecu is the culprit... I have used replacement ordered.
Next issue is the STVA.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks Dub, have removed everything that blocks visual inspection of wiring down into the innards between the fork legs. Wiring insulation looks very good. Bike only has 11000 mi,.
I cleaned ecm pins and recepticle with B12 chemtool, and dried it out with air hose the then used heat gun to make sure no moisture was in. Thanks for your encouragement about wiring unlikely to be the problem if in good condition! The schematic Shows 40 wires into the ecu. I feel pretty sure the ecu is the culprit...I have used replacement ordered.
Next issue is the STVA.
Bike will start like a champ but when I advance throttle from about 30 mph (on center stand) it coughs and barely got back home yesterday on a neighborhood ride. I am hoping the ECU replacement solves that problem too...but not real hopeful it will. As I mentioned before the STVA is in pristine condition, inside and out.
 

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I dont know if the stva control unit starting up means that its working properly. I think its also calibrated at factory which means opening up is a problem when closed up. Notice a marker on the side of the unit? Maybe it needs a slight calibration for tweaking. I kept mine open after the c28 code.

Maybe try running it with the c28 code but the plate open (look into the barrel and adjust it because the throttle body is not level) and see how it runs and if it bogs down the same as now. If it does run well, then the stva unit ia mot doing its job as you rev it up. If it doesnt then something else is wrong.
Ckp stva dirt in gas tank. I have no idea. The scooter is very finicky and fragile

Btw @Uncle Fester. Healtech said they dont have an stva eliminator for the b400. I was looking to get one. They said they dont have one listed in compatible models
 
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