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I went to a supermarket near home and when I tried to start the scooter everything was dead, at first I thought it was the battery, but the underseat light and clock were working, anyway got the Skywave home. After a lot of searching found the ignition switch defective, the Skywave only has two wires to the switch on the back of the ignition, well shorted them out and the scooter came to life, so for a temporary fix I wired in a switch, problem was I forgot to switch it off when I went to the shop, now I had a dead battery (still the original battery so about 8 years old WOW) replaced the battery, cannot seem to get the switch part for the ignition, have to purchase the complete assembly. Well took it apart and cleaned up all the contacts, the one used had gotten a bit hot and the plastic had started to melt, managed to get it all working, now trying to source a switch, if not I will use the other terminals that are not used on the Skywave.
 

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Yeah! Sorry to here that, I had the same Problem With that, And end up Paying $100 Toe Bills Twice, Over that, Did the same thing you did Overridden Wires to Switch, Of course i left the wires on there just unplugged them just in case it happens again, ...

Elliott,
 

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Burgman Ignition Switch repair part...
Switch contact assembly # 99103-11199
from information posted previously by Buffalo.
 

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2003 Burgman Ignition Switch Recall repair part... Switch contact assembly # 99103-11199

from information posted previously by Buffalo.
These are to fix the switch on 2003 Burgmans that were defective. It just screws on the bottom of 2002 and up Burgman 650s after you remove the old contact module. When these are out of stock there will not be any more made.

The thing to do is make sure NO extra draw is going thru the ignition switch. If you have added extra heated grips, driving lights, Stereo or GPS it should be wired up thru a direct wire from the battery and relay. In the stock setup ALL power goes thru those contacts.
 

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True Dave_J, The 12v Cigarette Socket is connected to the Ignition Switch....

I opened Ignition Switch on mines up and Polish them with Chrome polish and flatten them out with Sand paper....

The Brake Handle Relays have been having this same Problem as well, To much Power Flowing thru them Makes them Stop working as well...

Elliott,
 

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If there were an easy way to do it I could do a switching circuit board with transistors that would do the power transferring. Very little current should flow thru a moving contact switch like the Ignition switch. The Ign switch should only power up the transistors that in turn switch on the headlights, breaklights, stereo, drivinglights and heated gear.

If you ever seen a set of Magic Blinkers, they are just a always on transistor until it is switched off and the lights then blink off. A 5 pin relay does the same thing but is 10+ times the size.
 

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Temporary Solution

Same thing happend to my Ignition/Lock Switch Assy. I open the plastic part where the sliding contacts are and notice the melting. I duck taped a fine sandpaper to a flat piece of glass so it would be a perfect flat even surface, and polished it until they contacted again. It wasn't easy but at leat I got the scoot running again for a while, until I find the piece (99103-11199 AN400/650K3/K4S) at Partzilla. They have to special order it.
 

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Did you know the 2003 and 2004 ignition switch was recalled in 2005? Iwill be checking with Suzuki to see if they will replace my ignition switch. Recently my AN 400 2003has stalled and failed to start. I can wiggle key w/o turning to off position and motor will die. I am 2n or 3rd owner, with 6000 mils on scooter. link to recall notice....

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/motorcycle_recalls/49/2003/suzuki/an400_burgman/36689.html
There was a recall on the 2003 650's also. Just call your Suzuki dealer and have them run your V.I.N. to see if all the recalls have been done.
 

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And these have all been "Sold Out". Good luck.

That was then , at the time there were several available on eBay and else where . Now a new search shows nothing but out of stock . I had 3 new ones and sold two locally , I have one left and I'll keep it in my parts hoard in case I need one . I try and keep one of each of all the parts that are most likely to wear out for my own use .


TheReaper!
 
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That was then , at the time there were several available on eBay and else where . Now a new search shows nothing but out of stock . I had 3 new ones and sold two locally , I have one left and I'll keep it in my parts hoard in case I need one . I try and keep one of each of all the parts that are most likely to wear out for my own use . TheReaper!
Burgman OCD. :twisted:
 

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My 2003 was covered by Suzuki recall and no charge replaced by Las Vegas Dealer in Sept 2015. You can check for recall using vin number on line
 

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How to guide (my first)

Good morning all, love this forum and can’t thank enough people for the awesome “how to's" and input.

So, my starter switch decided it was going to start sticking the one day I was going to let someone ride it into work as I rode one of my other bikes. Well, after looking around and doing some research, I didn't have any idea what I was getting myself into, and thought I would give it a try.

Like someone said on here, there are parts that are spring loaded, but you don’t have to worry about that until you get deeper into the disassembly.

I’ll assume if you are thinking of tackling this yourself that you have a little “redneck engineering” background so I will try to keep it to the things I learned.

I used contact cleaner spray throughout the whole thing to assist in cleaning.

Once you split the throttle, remove the block holding the wiring and cut the clear zip tie in pic 2. There are 2 screws that hold your hazard switch and the starter box below that. Remove those screws and remember what one goes where, (2 sizes).

This should release it to gently wiggle both assemblies out. Pic 4 is where my issue was.

Mine is an 2008, so the plastic is a bit like my bones, old and brittle, so be careful.

Once out, before carefully removing the white case from the black wiring look at pic 5. That brass bar is spring loaded, this is where mine was hung up and not moving freely, but if yours just so happens to decide work as you carefully remove the wiring (top) it may decide to play a horrible game of hide and seek.

I used 0000 steel wool on the 4 contacts (pic 6) and the top of the brass contact in pic 7-8.

Once pulled apart, I used some fine sand paper on the brass piece, and pinched it (with my fingers) together. Then I used my X-acto knife to remove the corrosion and used a drill bit to remove some burs where the spring goes. It was hanging up quite a bit in there. I wouldn’t take off too much as I didn’t, I pretty much just cleaned it up as best as I could. I kept putting it back together to see if the movement was still hanging up and once I was satisfied, I figured I’d throw it back together and see if I could remember how to get it all back together.

Remember where the orange wiring goes (pic 1), because you could pinch it as you put it back together.

I added some graphite just because I bought it this morning and wanted to ensure I didn’t buy it for no reason.

Everything worked perfectly as I tested it before completely bolting it back together.

Hopefully this will help someone else that needs just a little push to fix it.

Good luck!
 

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