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Discussion Starter #1
Well, my 650 died today. 1 year and 3 days after buying it brand new (you know, 3 days after the manufactures warranty expires). First thing that happened is the bike refused to start. This never happened before. I turned the motor over, it sounds like it is starting then it just died. It did this about 4 times before starting. I then drove away and about 4 miles later the sputtered a bit and the bike just turned off all together (I was going about 50). I coasted to the side of the highway and after stopping, tried to start it again. This time it wont even turn over.

From there got it towed to the dealer and get to use my extended warranty for the first time. Glad I bought that, but didnt think I would be using it 3 days in. Will update thread when they figure out what the problem is.
 

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Battery/Rectifier
 

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Yeah, it sounds like the Regulator/rectifier had stopped charging the battery and you were running on just battery power till the voltage got low enough for it to die. DO NOT just accept them charging or replacing the battery without a good charging test with like a motorcycle approved SUN VAT40 type tester. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LriNo7PwwoM
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Would there be a good reason the bike didnt want to start before it died? It turned over like there was nothing wrong, but wouldnt start. Finally started, then 4 miles down the road it died and wont turn over at all.
 

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The electronic ignition requires a perimeter of voltage, from say 9 Volts to 13 volts DC. I do not have the exact info handy for the AN650. When the ignition switch is turned on and you crank it, the battery voltage will drop to what is called cranking voltage, somewhere around 10 to 11 volts DC. If the battery is fully charged up, NO PROBLEM. But if the battery is 3/4's charged then you will be bumping into that "TOO LOW" level of the perimeter, it may fire or it may not.

But if the rectifier/regulator is not working the the 3/4's charge will run the fuel pump, headlights, taillights, ignition, heated grips..... ONLY UNTIL it hits that "TOO LOW" level and the electronic's shut it down.

Too many times we have had members with this exact same trouble. The dealer charges the bike and BINGO it starts and runs fine. The owned smiles, puts on the helmut and rides off into the sunset. Then 5 or so miles and 10 minuets after the dealer has closed for the weekend, IT DIES. That is why they will do a running/charging test before I pick up MY bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Stopped by the dealer about an hour ago to check in. They said they will have the bike a long time. They said they pulled the plugs and tried to turn the motor over, and it wouldnt budge. They have to get a suzuki rep there to authorize the work, then tear the engine open to see what is going on. He said that Suzuki likes to have the bike back within 30 days, but he said not likely.

So now I gotta ask the boss to use the work truck for a month, or leave my wife without a vehicle. Fun!
 

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**** an engine seizing up. Good thing you got that contract.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No kidding. Im curious if the rectifier was the cause, and the engine may have siezed up from coasting at 50mph (as you know, there is no neutral) when it shut down.
 

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Likely the clutch disengaged. I don't think you'd get the engine turning coasting with the engine off and if the engine is turning so should the oil pump I'd say. Got me curious to see what they'll find.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I agree. He even said to me that Suzuki only pays for 10 hours to open up the motor, even though it takes at least 25 hours he said. Im sure they work on more profitable things first
 

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Call Suzuki, ask if true they pay only 10 hour for disassemble engine, maybe they ask who say this to you, maybe that help put pressure on dealer by Suzuki.
 

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The manufacturers go by a flat rate system. They do a study and determine a time the job should take and that's what they will pay for repairs. If it takes you longer it works out for the manufacturer, if your faster it works out for you. If it's something you've never done before chances are it works out for the manufacturer but if you have done it before and your good at it it can work out for you. It's the manufacturers way of accounting and knowing set warranty costs.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Dealer called. Bike got torn down and found that a plastic piece in the cvt broke and bound the motor up from turning. He said he submitted the estimate to Suzuki, and he expects them to approve it tomorrow or early next week. I asked him what the cost of the estimate was, he said $4,950. :shock: Looks like the SEP warranty may have paid off.
 

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Ouch! The only plastic bits are the two adjuster gears in the CVT. Good thing on having the SEP.
 

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Someone needs to forward this thread to Chris. aka "Daboo". He and i have often differed on paying the price for a extended warranty.
These bikes can be very expensive to repair. If you didn't have the warranty, would you sink another $5,000 into this bike??
What a beating you would take either way. Warranty- Yes, AN400 OR 650 doesn't matter. Get one if you can.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
MJR said:
HRDLEDR said:
Dealer called. Bike got torn down and found that a plastic piece in the cvt broke and bound the motor up from turning. He said he submitted the estimate to Suzuki, and he expects them to approve it tomorrow or early next week. I asked him what the cost of the estimate was, he said $4,950. :shock: Looks like the SEP warranty may have paid off.
Ouch! The only plastic bits are the two adjuster gears in the CVT. Good thing on having the SEP.
It is the only reason I bought a new bike as opposed to a used one. The available warranty
 

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wayneman said:
Someone needs to forward this thread to Chris. aka "Daboo". He and i have often differed on paying the price for a extended warranty.
These bikes can be very expensive to repair. If you didn't have the warranty, would you sink another $5,000 into this bike??
What a beating you would take either way. Warranty- Yes, AN400 OR 650 doesn't matter. Get one if you can.
If an owner was going to ride it a lot I would recommend a SEP but if your not gonna put more than 20-30K on it over the time I probably wouldn't recommend one.
 
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